Chassis advice :)

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ChrisWhite

New Member
Posts
23
Alright guys,

So I'm going to protect my chassis on the defender I've just picked up, what are your suggestions! The cheaper the better really, modern economy and all that. A guy told me old engine oil and spray it on with a gun and air compressor? I have the oil but no gun and compressor, so if you live in the Blackpool area and have one, I with more than happily hire it off you for cash or a crate of the finiest ale :) cheers
 
Please take note if you spray gallons of engine oil on your chassis and it goes for mot it can be a failure and also very hazardous to bikers on the road after you leave your slick !!!!!
 
Spent ages looking into this and cant help but feel that cheap isn't worth the effort. The cheapest option is probably just keeping your chassis free from mud, crap and SALT regularly until you can afford a better option, a CLEAN wet chassis wont rust that badly.

I've gone down the Dinitrol route, I've tested a section and it goes in and on like a treat. (using a cavity wax and an external wax) my local rental shop will rent a compressor for £30 for the W/E. The wax came with the lances ! (enough for a 90 - £120) may seem expensive but was less than replacing 1 outrigger !
 
Please take note if you spray gallons of engine oil on your chassis and it goes for mot it can be a failure and also very hazardous to bikers on the road after you leave your slick !!!!!

I did mine just before the mot and there was no problem, didn't get a mention other than the fact I had a nice clean chassis. It's down to application, if it drips you've put too much on (pretty obvious really). I spray mine on, just a light application is all it takes to keep the chassis protected and looking good. Twice a year is good, otherwise end of the summer :)
 
Brilliant, cheers for the advice, I'm just waiting on a nice dry day now but I don't think one of them with be coming soon! I don't know if this sounds daft but can you spray your engine as well to stop it from rusting? I'm new to this spraying and protecting but now I'm getting worried!
 
Brilliant, cheers for the advice, I'm just waiting on a nice dry day now but I don't think one of them with be coming soon! I don't know if this sounds daft but can you spray your engine as well to stop it from rusting? I'm new to this spraying and protecting but now I'm getting worried!

Don't spray engine, exhaust or brakes.
 
Spent ages looking into this and cant help but feel that cheap isn't worth the effort. The cheapest option is probably just keeping your chassis free from mud, crap and SALT regularly until you can afford a better option, a CLEAN wet chassis wont rust that badly.

I've gone down the Dinitrol route, I've tested a section and it goes in and on like a treat. (using a cavity wax and an external wax) my local rental shop will rent a compressor for £30 for the W/E. The wax came with the lances ! (enough for a 90 - £120) may seem expensive but was less than replacing 1 outrigger !

+1 I think keeping the chassis and underbody really clean is best, thick deposits really rot the vehicle, and also mean you don't spot rust problems when they are small.
Also, whatever coating/rustproofing you decide to go with will not help, and may make things worse, if there is muck and salt under the coating!
So pressure washer/steam cleaner really is your best friend on this one.
 
As a former Opel Manta owner (they were mostly built from painted rust at the factory), I can wholeheartedly recommend the products sold by these folks:

Corrosion Protection, Rust Removal, Car Wax and Car Polish from Bilt-Hamber UK

If anyone mentions Waxoyl, the thousands of rust free 1960s and 70s cars still to be seen in use every day on our roads will give you some idea of just how effective it is. I used to use it until I discovered BH.

I hope this is of interest.
 
I'm a big fan of waste oil. I sprayed my 1998 Xsara annually since new. I'm from Northern Ireland and we have plenty of wet weather, dirty roads, and winter salt. I called on farms so the car was always getting filthy. I pressure washed the car every Autumn, ran it a few weeks to get a layer of dirt underneath, oil sprayed it during a dry spell, and spread lots of olc cardboard on the garage floor to catch the run off.

I still have the car though it's in store the past couple of years (245000 miles) I've never replaced any brake pipes and the rear boot floor and chassis (first place foe these to rust) is perfect. It's a pity I didnt know rust attacks inside the supposedly galvanised sills as I had to repair them.

Used oil needs something to soak into hence a light layer of dirt is better. I also treat my wife's 1996 Corsa in the same way and including the sills, it was quite rusty when we got it 6 years ago but the oil seems to have held rust at bay. I also heat some dinitrol and mixed it with the oil, leaves it a bit sticky and the MOT testers sometimes complain but, hey, it's still on the road.

In my opinion waxoil doesn't penetate in the same way oil does. Mind you oil spraying can be a filthy job and needs done annually.
 
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