CHASSIS? 2

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Anaconda said:
Maer £2k, that's not so bad when you Do you think I could just patch up the chassis so as I can take me dogs to the fields which is just over a mile away from me I want to do this every other day. I will then be able to save the money to get the Maer chassis.
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steve2286w said:
Think I’ve had mine about 18 years this year and I’ve had just about every part off to replace / refurb
Rear floor, front floors , a posts, front panel, windows, rear door, both axles and diffs , all springs , seat box repair, engine refurb (2) , gearbox refurb , all brakes, fuel tanks.

Surprisingly I stopped saving all the receipts and doing spreadsheet of costs years ago it think it’s worth more than what I’ve spent on it in those years!

Bear in mind it won’t be just cost of chassis it will look so good you’ll want to change other bits , but if you refurb those bits first it helps also to get all the rusty bolts off so when you come to remove items for possible chassis change they’ll come off easy and won’t need to replaced

Other think to consider is the space available to strip/ store stuff in dry if poss.
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That is what I have been doing for last 5yrs apart from replacing front wings and doors I have done everything else. I have done other posts on here about trouble I’m having with the electrics they have spanked me big time lol I just can’t get my head around them. But replacing the chassis now is not possible and probably not for at least 2yrs. What I do want to ask is Do you think I could just patch up the chassis so as I can take me dogs to the fields which is just over a mile away from me I want to do this every other day. I will then be able to save the money to get the Maer chassis. I know I got to layout for the metal sheet and a welder this is easier for me to get to.
 
Not much to weld to, at the least it needs some repair sections welded in, like a half chassis. Even then there doesn't look like much to weld that to.
It is hard to tell with photos but in general rust is always worse than it first looks.
Of course if you are good at fabrication and can make the top shock mount then crack on.
 
You can also get the centre cross member for another £150.
It's only worth doing if the front end is good and there is solid metal to weld to.
You will also need to be confident in your welding abilities or get a pro to weld it up.
Just a random link of Ebay not a recommendation.
 
Anaconda said:
You can also get the centre cross member for another £150.
It's only worth doing if the front end is good and there is solid metal to weld to.
You will also need to be confident in your welding abilities or get a pro to weld it up.
Just a random link of Ebay not a recommendation.
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Been checking over the front chassis and it has had quite a lot of welding mainly at the very front both sides of where the leaf springs attach to. So I have taken on board what you have been saying to me about a Maer chassis! Is the Maer the only one to go for for the 2k?
 
Trumar said:
Been checking over the front chassis and it has had quite a lot of welding mainly at the very front both sides of where the leaf springs attach to. So I have taken on board what you have been saying to me about a Maer chassis! Is the Maer the only one to go for for the 2k?
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I can't answer that but they seem to have a very good reputation.
Other chassis are available.
 
No worries. lol seen as you have already done your series is there any Parts or Nuts n Bolts that I should replace before attaching onto the new chassis?
 
Anaconda said:
I can't answer that but they seem to have a very good reputation.
Other chassis are available.
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Hello @Anaconda if it’s ok I got another question for you….when I do get a Maer galvanized chassis, I brought some of the Lanoguard for the chassis that is no good, should I spray the inside of the new chassis? I was also going to cover the chassis with under seal as I have a large tub of the stuff? Thanks Mark
 
Think you would be better off painting the chassis, then spray inside with a cavity wax of your choice.
Some people leave the chassis bare and don't paint it at all.
Certain process to follow when painting a galv chassis.
I have never used Lanogaurd, some people like it, others don't.
 
Anaconda said:
Think you would be better off painting the chassis, then spray inside with a cavity wax of your choice.
Some people leave the chassis bare and don't paint it at all.
Certain process to follow when painting a galv chassis.
I have never used Lanogaurd, some people like it, others don't.
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Thank you. Is there a certain paint to use or any chassis paint? Lanoguard I checked their reviews and people seem to be happy with it.appreciate you helping me out.
 
you will find that when you strip it the chassis will collapse in the centre so be careful how you support it my series 1 chassis ended up in the pile shown and the rest in the vacuum cleaner
 

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mystery said:
you will find that when you strip it the chassis will collapse in the centre so be careful how you support it my series 1 chassis ended up in the pile shown and the rest in the vacuum cleaner
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Appreciate the heads up! Be a result if mine ends up like yours lol
 
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