Changing engine mounts

Too many posts so I'm getting old and confused but if you are taking the box out then July undo the 2 bolts holding the mount to chassis. All the lock tabs can be done with the box out.
Apologies if I have the wrong end of the stick

Sorry, my fault, I'm not taking gearbox out now...my other car's MOT has run out and bloke who usually sorts it is snowed under so I'm just trying to get mounts sorted quickly as possible so I've got at least one car that actually goes!

If the old lock tabs hadn't been completely rusted to the nuts I could probably have done it all through the centre seat hole but they were a right **** to crack. Once I'd tapped away the old lock tabs the bolts were a doddle to undo.

Got new tabs and a few spare from Craddocks. Some were new and shine and broke as soon as I tried to use them. Some others that came in a little cardboard box marked 1959 were much better! (They don't make em like they used to etc etc)

The nos parts are great. A lot of the gearbox parts I got were like that, dated 60s or 70s from long defunct engineering firms in the midlands.
Like memories from a bygone age in which we used to make stuff.

Well I've managed it finally - there were a lot of other things that got in the way.

I ended up using two NOS decently made petrol engine mounts on the engine and two well made diesel mounts on the gearbox. I would have used diseasel ones all round but I managed to rip one apart with some over-exuberant jacking!

Is a lot nicer on the set off now, just let the clutch up and hit the loud pedal instead of having to be careful with the clutch and still doing a skippy impression half the time. wish I'd realised this earlier.

I'd still like to witness this being done without taking the seats out though! Glad I did though or I wouldn't have spotted the knackered sills

thanks again all for help and advice

D