Changing compressor on P38

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if both access and standard ride height lights are lit without flashing, i would check that all doors are closed (go round and open and shut them) then drive off as mine some times does this and it usually does the trick. make sure you don't have your foot on the brake etc.
 
awillemsen said:
The compressor does run without cutting out if I manually start it using the EASunlock software.

I didn't take the brushes out when I replaced the seal. However, I did undo the wrong end of the compressor :doh: but did it back up again (without taking the end off) as soon as I realised my mistake.

So, my next job I guess is to take the [wrong] end off again and look inside to see if I can see anything in the wrong place. I will try shorting out the temp sensor too.

And, yes, the compressor was working OK before I started, and now doesn't.
Click to expand...

If the brushes do not make contact with the metal ring, the pump won't run. But, just to be sure, do you have an Ohm meter? If so, please check the connector of the compressor... On all combinations there must be a readout.

If that is not the case, your thermal switch needs to be replaced (in the compressor).

Regards,
Goswin
 
ladyranger said:
if both access and standard ride height lights are lit without flashing, i would check that all doors are closed (go round and open and shut them) then drive off as mine some times does this and it usually does the trick. make sure you don't have your foot on the brake etc.
Click to expand...

Yep - I figured this one out :) If I closed the door, then the standard light flashed, but if I opened it, then it stopped flashing.

But the problem is not with the height - if the system is pressurized by manual running of the compressor, then the car does rise to standard height and go down to access height. It also does the little adjustments afterwards...

The only problem is that the compressor does not come on automatically when the system pressure is low. Which is why I checked the pressure sensor - and it is reading open, so the pump should come on.
 
Goswin - LandRoverwinkel.nl said:
If the brushes do not make contact with the metal ring, the pump won't run. But, just to be sure, do you have an Ohm meter? If so, please check the connector of the compressor... On all combinations there must be a readout.

If that is not the case, your thermal switch needs to be replaced (in the compressor).

Regards,
Goswin
Click to expand...

I do have an Ohm meter, and I checked the resistance between the bottom left and top right connectors in the compressor plug, and there is no resistance (i.e. closed circuit). According to a video on YouTube posted by RSW Solutions this means the thermal switch is OK.

And the compressor does run OK when switched on by the EASunlock software. It just does not run automatically.
 
Last edited:
hi datatec,may I say that I do not agree with what you said about Goswin and his products.I bought a compressor seal in april 09 and it has given me sterling service.I saw his posting on an eas problem earlier this week and replied giving him feedback on the seal.He answered offering me his latest kit for trial.This arrived today and I will be fitting it this weekend,it comes with fitting downloads which I will be following as if I have no mechanical experience.The old seal will be examined and photographed and my findings published.I personally have had no problems with parts supplied by this company.May I state for the record that I have no business connection with Goswin nor was my reply solicited.
 
awillemsen said:
I do have an Ohm meter, and I checked the resistance between the bottom left and top right connectors in the compressor plug, and there is no resistance (i.e. closed circuit). According to a video on YouTube posted by RSW Solutions this means the thermal switch is OK.

And the compressor does run OK when switched on by the EASunlock software. It just does not run automatically.
Click to expand...

Yip, thermal switch is okay in that case.

You also checked the brushes inside the compressor and these were also fine?

I have seen once that the black relais (under the driver's seat - in a LHD car) was the cause of such a problem.

Did you check the connectors of the valve block and driver's module? Are they connected well?

And everything functioned before you start rebuilding the compressor?


Bye,
Goswin
 
awillemsen said:
if the system is pressurized by manual running of the compressor, then the car does rise to standard height

he only problem is that the compressor does not come on automatically when the system pressure is low..
Click to expand...

so the compressor runs if you manually supply power to it. so not the compressor:doh: why all the talk about pulling the compressor apart then??

surely something to do with block or driver pack then.
 
ladyranger said:
so the compressor runs if you manually supply power to it. so not the compressor:doh: why all the talk about pulling the compressor apart then??

surely something to do with block or driver pack then.
Click to expand...

To clarify, I've never manually supplied power to the compressor. What I've done is manually switched the compressor on (and off) using the EASunlock software. So, there seems to be no problem with the compressor working, or the power supply to the compressor, or the communication link between the EAS computer and the compressor. Also, once the tank is pressurized, the rest of the system works fine - i.e. car goes up and down OK in response to pressing the dashboard button (until, of course, the pressure in the tank runs out).

There must be something that is stopping the EAS computer telling the compressor to run. According to RSW the two causes of this problem are a faulty temp sensor and a faulty pressure sensor. I've tested both using the methods suggested by RSW and both pass the tests.

What is niggling me is that the compressor does start automatically - but it only runs for a second or two. It's as if the EAS computer is telling the compressor to switch on, but is then almost straight away telling it to switch off.
 
ladyranger said:
so the compressor runs if you manually supply power to it. so not the compressor:doh: why all the talk about pulling the compressor apart then??

surely something to do with block or driver pack then.
Click to expand...

Valve block (apart from pressure switch) and driver pack have nothing to do with running compressor. Compressor is fed from fuse 40 (40 amp) via relay 20 directly by ECU.
 
I have a question - if the compressor is switched on manually with the EASunlock software, and is left running until the temp sensor indicates that the compressor is overheating, will the compressor automatically switch off? Or will it keep running until it is switched off manually?
 
awillemsen said:
I have a question - if the compressor is switched on manually with the EASunlock software, and is left running until the temp sensor indicates that the compressor is overheating, will the compressor automatically switch off? Or will it keep running until it is switched off manually?
Click to expand...

Don't have an answer to that one, never tried it. But if the EASunlock is just activating compressor circuit i would think pressure switch would would cut power long before compressor overheats. Storey Wilson will know the answer to that one.
 
I reckon I know what the problem is. When I tested the thermal sensor, I disconnected the power plug and used my multimeter to test the sensor pins. It read no resistance so the sensor is OK. However, it occurred to me this morning (must have been thinking about it in my sleep :) that I had to twist the plug up in order to test it. So, I went out and tried the plug in all sorts of different positions, and finally I found one where I got a closed circuit across the power pins and an open circuit across the sensor pins. I reckon I have a dodgy live wire to the sensor, and when the compressor starts up the vibration is enough to cut the connection, and hence the computer shuts the compressor down (cause it reckons its overheating). Every so now and then, the connection "mends" itself - vibration from the engine or driving, I guess - so the compressor starts again and the same thing repeats. This would explain why the compressor runs for a second or two before switching off, and why it starts up again at a seemingly random time later.

Is it possible to replace one (or all) of the wires from the plug to the compressor? Or should I just open my wallet and go and buy a new compressor?
 
awillemsen said:
I reckon I know what the problem is. When I tested the thermal sensor, I disconnected the power plug and used my multimeter to test the sensor pins. It read no resistance so the sensor is OK. However, it occurred to me this morning (must have been thinking about it in my sleep :) that I had to twist the plug up in order to test it. So, I went out and tried the plug in all sorts of different positions, and finally I found one where I got a closed circuit across the power pins and an open circuit across the sensor pins. I reckon I have a dodgy live wire to the sensor, and when the compressor starts up the vibration is enough to cut the connection, and hence the computer shuts the compressor down (cause it reckons its overheating). Every so now and then, the connection "mends" itself - vibration from the engine or driving, I guess - so the compressor starts again and the same thing repeats. This would explain why the compressor runs for a second or two before switching off, and why it starts up again at a seemingly random time later.

Is it possible to replace one (or all) of the wires from the plug to the compressor? Or should I just open my wallet and go and buy a new compressor?
Click to expand...

Think it maybe a good idea to take the brush holder out and check connections to board. If you do have a broken wire you can replace it at the same time.
 
SWMBO spoke, and I opened my wallet. A new compressor is now installed (fantastic service from Island 4x4) and everything is back to normal. So, the problem was definitely inside or in the wiring to the compressor.

At some point, I will take the old compressor to bits again and try to locate the fault.
 
Hello....new to this forum. I have a compressor issue and have run out of ideas. It runs every 15 seconds after vblock rebuild. (new bags,compressor.? ck'd all 0-rings and seals ...no bubbles. replaced pressure switch with new one for atlantic british....HELP????
 
porschedrvr said:
Hello....new to this forum. I have a compressor issue and have run out of ideas. It runs every 15 seconds after vblock rebuild. (new bags,compressor.? ck'd all 0-rings and seals ...no bubbles. replaced pressure switch with new one for atlantic british....HELP????
Click to expand...

If compressor makes good air, does not run continuously and you have no leaks then you probably have nothing to worry about.
 
porschedrvr said:
Hello....new to this forum. I have a compressor issue and have run out of ideas. It runs every 15 seconds after vblock rebuild. (new bags,compressor.? ck'd all 0-rings and seals ...no bubbles. replaced pressure switch with new one for atlantic british....HELP????
Click to expand...
Look in the "how To" section for Wammers guide. Most likely you have a leak somewhere.
Just a thought, are you checking with the bonnet open? On mine and some others the compressor cycles continuously with the bonnet open, shut the bonnet and it stops.
 
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