Changed battery for new and now cant sync fobs or start the car!

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Well I went to use him last night and he started AGAIN first turn of the key!

That's pretty much never happened in the 10 years I've had him (or the 5 years my Dad had him before that!).

I really am beginning to think my house phones were causing the RF receiver to kick in and drain him. Especially as Moz told me to check if the red light on the gear selector went out within 5 minutes - and now it does. Akthough I am not sure if it comes back on during the evening as it's been wet and cold out so I haven't checked.
 
AdamElphick said:
Well I went to use him last night and he started AGAIN first turn of the key!

That's pretty much never happened in the 10 years I've had him (or the 5 years my Dad had him before that!).

I really am beginning to think my house phones were causing the RF receiver to kick in and drain him. Especially as Moz told me to check if the red light on the gear selector went out within 5 minutes - and now it does. Akthough I am not sure if it comes back on during the evening as it's been wet and cold out so I haven't checked.
Click to expand...

Man up , sit in the car all night :D:D:D
 
AdamElphick said:
Haha - up until the last 'good start' I would have been tempted to stop it dying!
Click to expand...

hi adam it looks as though that was the problem so now you have got rid of the wi-fi phones you should be ok ,,the rf reciever still needs to be checked when you have free time so as to confirm its the 1st edition which will need replacing eventually ... as i explained the becm goes to sleep and is only woken up either by you unlocking the car or by spurious signals ,, the r.f reciever is 99.9 % responsible for draining batteries ,ok mate keep in touch ...kind regards MOZZ
 
Braved it and washed the old guy with some nice wash'n'wax, and even cleaned all the interior glass, plus washed dash down! Looks like a new car inside now... I however look like a drowned rat!
 
AdamElphick said:
Braved it and washed the old guy with some nice wash'n'wax, and even cleaned all the interior glass, plus washed dash down! Looks like a new car inside now... I however look like a drowned rat!
Click to expand...

Maybe you could make up for it and do mine. Seeing as it was raining I took it for a play in the mud!
 
Hi Adam

Ive got a good code that works every time for resync any fob key on a range rover p38
1st step make sure all your doors are lock
2nd step put your key in drivers door and enter this code of 1515 which is turn key once to unlock then 5 times to lock and the once to unlock then 5 to unlock.
3rd step open driver doors with key and alarm should still go off places key in ignition and keep it turned over car wont fire until you keep key into turn over position and pressing key fob buttons and the same time it will then fire the car hey presto your key fob re sync mate works every time mate
 
Rick-the-Pick said:
This 1515 code confuses the hell out of me.

The only time this code will work if it has, by default, been programmed into the becm.
Click to expand...

Not 100% sure, but think 1515 is the generic code use on NAS models that do not have individual EKA codes. Maybe it works if market is not set in BECM do know to be honest.
 
Can anyone help?

This discussion might cure my non start problem. I've searched on non starts and got nothing. Using Tapatalk!
Hi all, help please,<br />
<br />
Fitted a replacement V8, got it Mot'd when it started to miss fire, then drove it home 6 miles when it died under load, testing the kickdown and had to tow it the last few miles.<br />
<br />
Now it cranks and won't start. Got fuel, got spark although weak, changed the following with identical results:<br />
<br />
Stepper motor, airflow meter, coil pack.<br />
<br />
Plugs are platinum tipped and drowned in fuel. Fuel sports or of valve. There's no air restriction and even tried a hair dryer on hot into the intake, to no avail.<br />
<br />
Things it might be?:<br />
<br />
Low fuel pressure.<br />
Crank sensor<br />
BECM out of sync with ECM?<br />
CAM sensor.<br />

I don't know any secret fixes or anything. Only bought it recently.

Before refitting the engine, swopped cam and crank sensors when the engine was out and was meticulous.<br />
<br />
All electrical items are from the original engine, including injectors and rail, which started and ran OK apart from cylinder head problems.<br />
<br />
Any help would be appreciated. I don't want to call the AA.<br />
<br />
I live in Nantwich, Cheshire.<br/>
 
Morning all,
Had a similar problem a few years back-Mozz (the genius!)helped me out. One strange thing that I did notice with mine was that and the tailgate would not open on the remote until the interior lights had timed out. I disabled the interior lights and problem solved. The only issue I have now is if I don't put the key in ignition and turn it to position 1 in about 10 secs I get the "engine disabled" message. I simply lock and reopen and again problem solved.
This has been the only major issue in 9 years s0 will be keeping the old girl for as long as possible.

Steve
 
pete969 said:
Can anyone help?

This discussion might cure my non start problem. I've searched on non starts and got nothing. Using Tapatalk!
Hi all, help please,<br />
<br />
Fitted a replacement V8, got it Mot'd when it started to miss fire, then drove it home 6 miles when it died under load, testing the kickdown and had to tow it the last few miles.<br />
<br />
Now it cranks and won't start. Got fuel, got spark although weak, changed the following with identical results:<br />
<br />
Stepper motor, airflow meter, coil pack.<br />
<br />
Plugs are platinum tipped and drowned in fuel. Fuel sports or of valve. There's no air restriction and even tried a hair dryer on hot into the intake, to no avail.<br />
<br />
Things it might be?:<br />
<br />
Low fuel pressure.<br />
Crank sensor<br />
BECM out of sync with ECM?<br />
CAM sensor.<br />

I don't know any secret fixes or anything. Only bought it recently.

Before refitting the engine, swopped cam and crank sensors when the engine was out and was meticulous.<br />
<br />
All electrical items are from the original engine, including injectors and rail, which started and ran OK apart from cylinder head problems.<br />
<br />
Any help would be appreciated. I don't want to call the AA.<br />
<br />
I live in Nantwich, Cheshire.<br/>
Click to expand...

You need some diag on it. You can guess forever.
 
Do you know anyone local to me in Nantwich?

I used a small one from a local garage just for engine codes and got something like:

Steeper motor.
Max negative airflow mass correction fault
Knock sensor continuous knock / performance.

Actual P codes written down at home.

My problem is car won't fire or even try.

Is there anything I can do with the fob in the door or ignition ?

What are the secret codes and will they resynchronise the ECU's to get it to fire up?

Thanks all.

Pete
 
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