- Posts
- 19,270
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
i got fed up looking for the motors and bought 2 mgf latches from ebay for 30quid and disconnected the rf ariel, job done.
There is a web posting on how to check the readings and resistance on door lock motors and connections. I Can't find it sorry, I think it is on the American site. Shows photos in colour and connections. Bear in mind there are two types of plug connection to door locks. Mine had two plugs (1995 p38 diesel. And their drivers door is our left) It worked for me, the contacts in the sensors went u/s. Replaced it and was all ok. It all came about when the door lock would not respond to the key code sequence. worth a look?
You can use a long screwdriver and a big hammer and smash the lock or remove the rear door to give you access to the striker. Mask off the side of the door (I used duct tape) and use an angle grinder to cut through the outer part of the striker. Then with a new hacksaw blade, without the hacksaw, cut the inner part of the striker. Door open, and lock intact to replace the motor, and throw the small motor away(superlock). The motors do just plug in and are interchangeable. New striker were about £15.Good Afternoon
I have a very similar problem After only 2 days of ownership !!
The difference with me is that the Passenger Front door will not open
The button wont pop up even if you try it by hand Nor will it open if you pull the leaver
Can anyone please give me some advise on how I can open the door
Thanks in advance
Jesus. Where did this thread resurrect from?! When I saw my name as raising I thought I'd had a senior moment.
Yes, fixed (more than once until I got my RF receiver changed) using old locks off Fleabay, either Range Rover (rear ones are cheaper) and MGF ones.
Found the Mabuchi motors but none with long enough shafts. Looks like they were a special done for Rover.
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