Central Locking Kit

Incidentally, all of the automotive cable i can find is class 5. Im sure, somewhere in the world, class 6 automotive cable exists, but...

I thought i was onto a winner, when i found this -
https://www.anixter.com/content/dam/Anixter/Catalogs/EMEA-Wire-and-Cable-Handbook/EMEA-WC-Sec-2.pdf
Its got a class 6 cable (which is why my google search picked it up) but its not under the automotive cable. All the automotive "Flexible Cables and Cords" listed are class 5...



The 6xD - three cores bound together in a 1mm thick outer is going to have a bit smaller of a bend radius than a bunch of individual cores running through a door grommet. I know i didnt make it clear of the (proposed) intention to remove the outer.

1.5mm csa gives 1.382mm dia.
Stick 0.7mm insulation around it, and youve got 2.782mm

So then, 6 times that - 16.692mm

Will that be too tight?


Can i just point out that you contradicted what i thought, so i asked you, nicely enough, for you to enlarge upon your comment, and, it seems, you got the hump?

I think you're possibly overthinking this. Surely just use some good quality automotive cable and get on with it.

Biggest think you need to consider is the correct wire routing between the doors and body, oh and allow enough cable for when the door stay fails and it opens near on 180 degrees

My lad had a fair bit of work done on his land in a local garage. They fitted central locking, but the cheap system they used is terrible. Failed inside of 6 months. Like most of what they did. Thats why i'm doing it all again.The solenoids only have a throw of about 1/4 of an inch. If i position them to lock, they haven't enough movement to un lock, and vice versa. I'm on here to find the best most robust make so I can change them. Just don't wanna end up with the same problem. Was wondering if the ones fitted to a disco or something might fit. Clearly all the wiring is in, i'm hoping I can get away with just changing the solenoid, and the brains of the system work as well. Any clues ?

I fitted a system to my 110 a few months ago - actuators are Hella ones and they have worked really well so far. There are some nice looking kits on certain auction sites - but some unbelievably cheap. I think some of the more generic kits have adjustable links between the actuator and the lock - does the one fitted here have something similar giving a bit of slack?