Central locking, interior light and door switches

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Al2O3 said:
View attachment 237280
I've got two spare switches, but the one on the left isn't working. The little push button sticks in. You can pop it out with the tip of a knife, but it sticks in every time :(
You can get the idea though. They've been working for quite a few years without any bother.
Click to expand...

Can you tell me what the switches are called. Can you get them on eBay, Amazon, VWP?
 
capo said:
Many thanks @Al2O3. I'll keep that for reference.
For now I'm going to keep it simple and go one step at a time. Install the CDL on the front doors, then install the basic alarm options such as the ultrasonic sensors, vibration sensor, ignition bypass warning, hazards and maybe int light, but omit the door pins, window winders, boot lock, immobiliser (have my own), and brake light door lock (touch the brakes to lock the doors once moving, like a taxi).
Click to expand...
Door switches can always be an option for the future :)

capo said:
Can you tell me what the switches are called. Can you get them on eBay, Amazon, VWP?
Click to expand...
I've just found them on the actual company website here
https://www.emaselectric.com/produc...long-lever-roller-1co-mk1-series-micro-switch

But, I can't remember where I bought them from :rolleyes:
 
capo said:
I will keep a note of these and might install them one day once everything else is fettled.


Looks like these will get around the polarity issue having NO and NC positions.

Many thanks.
Click to expand...
No bother.
I think with a replacement interior light, adding door switches will be a lot easier than I first thought.
Good luck fitting the alarm etc sound like you've got it sussed :)
 
Al2O3 said:
In the 300Tdi, with door switches, the interior light switch also has another earth route out of it. It's a purple wire, so you think it's a live feed, but it is just going to earth via your A post when the switch there closes the circuit when the door opens.
Click to expand...

I'll take another look but I think there is an unused terminal on the light connectors and no wire.
The light is a STC251
Screenshot 2021-05-02 at 13.43.49.png
and it looks like there is a connector for door pins? lead 8 'roor' connection PRC3813 but the light harness (9) PRC5679 is different to my set up! I have just one purple white wire and no obvious earth apart from via the case to the roof.

Screenshot 2021-05-02 at 13.46.26.png
 
I think you will need one of these.
amr3155_1.jpg

Click HERE for a link to one.

It's the newer light with the switch on the side. It must have a live feed (the numbers 7 and 8 from your diagram) and then an earth to the roof via the black switch on it's side. It will also have earths via the two door switches. So, when the switch on the side is put on the circuit will be made via the roof earth and when the doors open the circuit will be made via the door earths.

There are no earth wires as such, it's all done via connections to the body. I think the wires that go to the door switches are effectively just earth wires and the original door switches connect to the body via a self tapper that holds them in place.

If you were to fit one of the newer lights you would have to leave your dash switch permanently on and use the switch at the light and have it come on with the doors.
 
I grateful for your efforts @Al2O3 ;)
I don't think I'll bother with the door switches as it'll be fair amount of work for little real benefit and potentially more things to go wrong over time.

The alarm should sound if the doors are opened when armed as the actuators will pulse back to the control box so a lack of door pin connections won't compromise security. There's also the ultrasonic and vibration sensors and keyless start sensor so it's fairly well covered.

It's an early Ninety and I don't want to mess about and modernise it too much..........I've already turned it into a V8 auto :rolleyes:
Remote central door locking is a convenience and worth it as my locks are all different and fumbling about in the dark and rain can be tiresome esp with shopping or the granddaughter in tow. I know I could swap the locks for a new set but they are the very early Santana type and hard to find.
The alarm integrates with the CDL and was a pressy from MrsC so why not. But I can't be bothered with all the extra whistles and bells so it'll be a basic set-up.

Finished unravelling and sorting the wires to the CDL kit, wiring for the front doors and loom to controller wrapped in flexy tubing ready to layout in the Landy. Bench tested and worked OK :D Cut off and insulated the pair of leads for the rear doors as it's a 90. If I decide to do the safari door at a later date I can solder a length of wire to one of the tags.

Next step is to fit the actuators to the doors. Simple in theory but I have the early lift-up handle doors and there is less room behind the door panel than the later models.
 
capo said:
I grateful for your efforts @Al2O3 ;)
I don't think I'll bother with the door switches as it'll be fair amount of work for little real benefit and potentially more things to go wrong over time.

The alarm should sound if the doors are opened when armed as the actuators will pulse back to the control box so a lack of door pin connections won't compromise security. There's also the ultrasonic and vibration sensors and keyless start sensor so it's fairly well covered.

It's an early Ninety and I don't want to mess about and modernise it too much..........I've already turned it into a V8 auto :rolleyes:
Remote central door locking is a convenience and worth it as my locks are all different and fumbling about in the dark and rain can be tiresome esp with shopping or the granddaughter in tow. I know I could swap the locks for a new set but they are the very early Santana type and hard to find.
The alarm integrates with the CDL and was a pressy from MrsC so why not. But I can't be bothered with all the extra whistles and bells so it'll be a basic set-up.

Finished unravelling and sorting the wires to the CDL kit, wiring for the front doors and loom to controller wrapped in flexy tubing ready to layout in the Landy. Bench tested and worked OK :D Cut off and insulated the pair of leads for the rear doors as it's a 90. If I decide to do the safari door at a later date I can solder a length of wire to one of the tags.

Next step is to fit the actuators to the doors. Simple in theory but I have the early lift-up handle doors and there is less room behind the door panel than the later models.
Click to expand...
Your more than welcome, Capo. It's interesting to investigate stuff like that as you always learn something.
I fitted CDL to my front doors a few years ago. It's a Hawke system. Just did the front two doors. Neither door works now. I've replaced two of the actuators already, but I think I've still got a few spare. A job for the summer me thinks.
 
Al2O3 said:
Your more than welcome, Capo. It's interesting to investigate stuff like that as you always learn something.
I fitted CDL to my front doors a few years ago. It's a Hawke system. Just did the front two doors. Neither door works now. I've replaced two of the actuators already, but I think I've still got a few spare. A job for the summer me thinks.
Click to expand...

Great, mine's a Hawke:eek: ...... ! I've read that they have a good reputation.:rolleyes: I'll have a couple of spare actuators in case though.
Regards ;)
 
Just found an appendix in the manual which shows how to wire up the interior light :rolleyes:; whether a -ve or +ve feed from the alarm a relay is used.
Screenshot 2021-05-03 at 15.23.20.png

Refers to door connection feeds though so might be part of that system.

The relay wiring diagram I did might be wrong although it bypasses any door switches so might work.
img_2119-jpg.237247
 
Spoke to Hawk tech support.
The relay set up above for the interior light will work. He stressed that whether the light is + or - switched, a relay must be used as the feed is 250mA; I don't quite understand but I take his word for it.
(in my set up feed is to 87 and the output at 30, their 2nd diagramhas the feed to 30 and the output at 87, so both do the same thing.)

I will need door switches if I want the alarm to sound if the doors are opened without disarming. However the ultrasonic and vibration sensors should kick in!

Bench tested the the finished 'loom' with the wires I won't need tailed off and connected it to the cdl actuators. Wired all the earths together and connected them and the lives to a 12V transformer and hey presto, actuators clunked on and off with the key fob and the box chirped and lit up when moved or I made a noise by the sensors. I temporarily attached the siren - it is loud! and it chirped and wailed as appropriate.

Next step is installation of the basics at least; whistles and bells perhaps later. Not in a hurry so will update whenever.
 
All working fine including the dome light which comes on for 25s on unlocking and turns off if the ignition is started before then.
Indicators flash on lock/unlock.
Adapted the brake light door lock impulse with a momentary switch so I can lock the doors inside without using the fob; when pressed the doors lock and auto unlock once the ignition is off, the dome light then comes on.
The immobiliser does what it says.
I haven't tested the ultrasonic and vibration sensors yet. Hope they work as I didn't instal door switches to detect if the door is opened without disarming.
Turned of the annoying arm/disarm chirps and the auto locking/arming.
So far aok :)
 
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