Royston 90
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Actually just tried earthing the BU wire with the BLG disconnected & although it lights up the dash light, moving it out of difflock doesn`t switch the dash light off.
Disco 2 CDL & Oil temp light
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Royston 90
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I have not cut the BU wire. I was merely pointing out if I were to cut it I could put heatshrink sleeving over it. I have cut Black/light green wire from pin 1 & then seperated the outer sheath using wire strippers on pin 39 blue /black wire Bu & twisted the cut BLG wire round the Blue/black wire. Only thing I did was do it on the other side of the connector (C0223 side) as access was easier.
sierrafery
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i think i was clear enough and you keep complicating things... the cdl light will be on as long as the BU wire is earthed no matter what you do with the BLG and switch... pleaase see again the post with the diagram and try to understand it cos i'm getting nervous
Royston 90
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I am getting confused too now lol. I have done exactly as per the diagram you posted, just on connector C0223 side that plugs into C0047 & nothing lights up on the dash.
I then earthed the wires that I had twisted together as in your diagram & both the high temp ligh & cdl light lit up on the dash. I then removed the BLG wire I had twisted round the BU wire & earthed that & only the cdl light came on, but this stayed on wether diff lock was on or off.
I then earthed the wires that I had twisted together as in your diagram & both the high temp ligh & cdl light lit up on the dash. I then removed the BLG wire I had twisted round the BU wire & earthed that & only the cdl light came on, but this stayed on wether diff lock was on or off.
sierrafery
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It's irrelevant on which side of the connector you work... the simplest explanation i can give you is that: the switched earth on the BLG wire from the transfer box when the diff is locked(which brings on the oil temp light) must go into the BU wire for the CDL light to bring it up, simple as that, i dont know nor understand what you are doing there, find somebody who knows to read a diagram and ask for an explanation maybe i can't put it the right way in english but as i said i've done this not once and if it's made as i explained it should work... the direct earth was just to test the lamp it has to be removed
Royston 90
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Yes I understand you fine & have done exactly as you have stated, but it still doesn`t work & I was wondering if there was another explanation as to why as like you say it should work. I can load a picture if you like ?
sierrafery
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The cut BLG wire has to remain free upwards and you have to connect the side which comes from below to the BU wire cos now i think you spliced into the BU with the upper side of the BLG wire which comes from the lamp not from the CDL switch
Royston 90
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sierrafery
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Unfortunately those pics dont help me much. If with your setup now you connect the direct earth to the splice point and both oil and cdl lamps are coming on you have to undo the BLG wire and splice in with the other side of it that's sure
Royston 90
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Ok I will try that then just there doesn`t seem much length in the loom to get onto the wire to splice. Do you have any advice ?
sierrafery
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If it's not enough lenght in the BLG wire means that you left the side which goes toward C0223 free and spliced in with the other side didnt you ? .. if that's the case which means it was the wrong move take another piece of wire and splice into both or do what ever you can to fix that
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Royston 90
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I meant length in the complete loom. Again I need to take more time looking at diagrams and not rushing. I presumed the side I cut & spliced from C0223 wich was toward the rear of the vehicle, was the loom coming from the tansfer box (this was not the case, wich if I took the laptop out with me & checked the schematic I would have seen) I did indeed have to make the splice on the Co 047 side & now all works as it should with many thanks to sierraferry. I like to share how I do things and admit to the mistakes I make along the way as that is how we & others learn. If you are ever over in England I owe you a few beers.
sierrafery
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Welcome... i'm glad you figured it out untill the end cos i started to have doubts about my mental sanity 
davidvipond55@googlemail.
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Hi hope you are still on this thread. We have fitted a pre 2000 transfer box (full box) to my 2004 (manual) discovery to get CDL, works perfectly other than mechanic has got the transfer box oil waring light coming on when diff lock is engaged. I understand this is NOT wired up for a manual gear box, is that correct? Installed transfer box has the old single CDL switch. My question is does it make any difference to performance if we leave it wired up to temp, rather that CDL indicator? Only a light user of CDL mostly on grass steep banks which can be very slippery and TC is useless as low revs needed. Note we fitted an Ashcroft limited slip diff in the rear but found this totally ineffective so was advised to fit SDL as well. Now have at least 3 wheeled drive. Not sure if I should follow the advice above re cutting wires if no CDL wiring is on my 2004 model. Any advise would be much appreciated.
sierrafery
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Partially correct as it has noting to do if the box is manual or auto, it can be wired or not regardless of gearbox type but just untill one point under the dash from where the circuit is there for all hence all the previous discussion in this thread
Not at all
You have to cut only if you want the CDL warning to work instead of the oil temp warning
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davidvipond55@googlemail.
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Thanks so much for the replies. Have booked it back into the garage to see if the wiring is there for 2 CDL switch connectors. Perhaps see if we can connect pre 2000 switch to 2004 wiring. But as advise is that it will work OK as is, if that fails will leave it alone. The CDL and the Ashford rear LSD, do give it much more grip. Once again your advise appreciated.
sierrafery
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There is an adaptor for that if your's has the CDL switch connector there, on some modells it isnt there at all, if you bridge the pins in it the warning should come on with ignition
google out YQM105170 but you can cut that connector and fit two female spades instead to go on the switch
on a second thought, it would be good to restore that input cos it goes to the SLABS ECU too which is good to know that the CDL is locked
davidvipond55@googlemail.
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Thanks. Will post when we have had another go at it.
MrKay
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Thank you for all your input- will finish my
Job tomorrow!
I got a disco2 2004, intresting part is I don’t have a HighLow sensor in my transfer case! Maybe the previous owner used a transfer case of a D1? Any ideas would be intresting to know - I got the stickers in the car showing the difflock- no wires for the diff though.
(Made my wires similar but I use the HighLow cables for the difflock sensor my hill decent would now engage in High as well but I just don’t click the button)
My question: which wires where to cut to have TQ working with difflock engaged? Could you send me the right direction please.
sierrafery
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Which means that when you lock the diff the ECUs get the low input so when the transfer case is in high the engine ECU goes to the low gear fuel map and the engine is overfuelled also the SLABS ECU doesnt know that the diff is locked to addapt it's activity to that unless you spliced into the diff-lock input circuit too...
do you see the diff lock warning on when you lock it?
If by TQ you mean traction controll on a 2004 you dont have to cut any wires. However, if the SLABS doesnt know that the diff is locked the TC would work normally if needed but not needed too much with locked diff also in some rare cases TC and locked diff can come in a "conflict" and make things worst.
So run separate wires for the diff lock only for that particular circuit and for low input use a switch on the console to use it when you select low gear otherwise the whole management is mixed up and even if you think it works well it's not.