Is their a difference in your hinges somewhere ??
Offset hinges are how I used to get a gate to open “uphill” so they didn’t bottom out when swung open. It doesn’t take much to throw it off
Cat Flap - let’s see.
- Thread starter congo181
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Offset hinges are how I used to get a gate to open “uphill” so they didn’t bottom out when swung open. It doesn’t take much to throw it off
- Posts
- 11,023
- Location
- North of the Wall
+1 - it’s about all that can cause it in my mind
guessing the NS offset is greater, so no issue…
congo181
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 519
- Location
- Maidstone, Kent, U.K.
The two hinges were welded together when bent up to make them exactly the same. I suppose it’s possible there’s some differences elsewhere, like the pin centres?+1 - it’s about all that can cause it in my mind
I’ll take it all apart again and make some careful measurements. Luckily nothings finally fixed yet.
congo181
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 519
- Location
- Maidstone, Kent, U.K.
Bit of progress on the cat flap.
The upper hinge brackets are now riveted to the roof and seem very solid. I managed to adjust the door fit with some packing and now all clears the roof gutter ok.
This afternoon I refitted the outer skins to the door frame after a good prime to the inner faces to slow down the corrosion. The skins had a bit of polyurethane adhesive for good measure to try and stop water ingress.
I also fettled the drop arms a bit for aesthetics and then painted them with G90 cold galv spray which I quite like.
The upper hinge brackets are now riveted to the roof and seem very solid. I managed to adjust the door fit with some packing and now all clears the roof gutter ok.
This afternoon I refitted the outer skins to the door frame after a good prime to the inner faces to slow down the corrosion. The skins had a bit of polyurethane adhesive for good measure to try and stop water ingress.
I also fettled the drop arms a bit for aesthetics and then painted them with G90 cold galv spray which I quite like.
congo181
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 519
- Location
- Maidstone, Kent, U.K.
Drilled the bottom edge for the genuine galvanised drip edge sourced from eBay. Couldn’t think of a better way than this solution for water in the bottom and found some NOS ones for sale at a good price.
I might look at adding some kind of rubber seal on the bottom edge of the door in the future.
I might look at adding some kind of rubber seal on the bottom edge of the door in the future.
congo181
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 519
- Location
- Maidstone, Kent, U.K.
Fitted the gas strut today which works well.
Unfortunately, when closed, the strut compresses the hinge arm which then causes the flap to foul the gutter again on opening. More fettling required. Looking good though.
Unfortunately, when closed, the strut compresses the hinge arm which then causes the flap to foul the gutter again on opening. More fettling required. Looking good though.
congo181
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 519
- Location
- Maidstone, Kent, U.K.
I’m soon going to paint the cat flap white, but I can’t decide if the galvanised drip strip should be white or unpainted. There’s a couple of other galv parts on the back panel already. My fear is that running the white line down below the roof sides will look odd.
What do you all think?
What do you all think?
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,242
- Location
- Wiltshire
Leave galv
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,242
- Location
- Wiltshire
How would the top open??Shouldn't the drip strip be on the back of the lower lip rather than the front?
Surely that will trap water
Cracking job though
J
(You would have to drop the tail gate otherwise)
How would the top open??
(You would have to drop the tail gate otherwise)
Back of the lower lip of the top flap maybe would have been better words
the drip strip would stick out the gap and still be over the top of the lower.
Have since had a quick goggle and it seems that's how they are
So apart from saying I think that's silly and will trap water.I guess its a landy, so I will just continue to watch the progress in silence
.J
congo181
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 519
- Location
- Maidstone, Kent, U.K.
I do see your point, and yes, your suggestion makes sense, but like you, I googled the original and they’re on the front surface.Back of the lower lip of the top flap maybe would have been better words
the drip strip would stick out the gap and still be over the top of the lower.
Have since had a quick goggle and it seems that's how they are
I guess its a landy, so I will just continue to watch the progress in silence
J
I’ll put a bead of polyurethane behind it and in the holes pre-riveting just in case, or maybe even make a rubber gasket. I’m more concerned about the drips not getting inside than the seepage I guess.
I might just offer it up the the back and see how it looks now…
edit: managed to get a coat of 2K primer on the frame when it cooled down this evening. That’s good.
Last edited:
leave it galv definitely, and at the same time remove the paint from the capping's so they are plain galv as well, like they should be
it depends how much tiger seal has been used to glue it together to prevent the water getting trapped
EDIT
seems @congo181 is already all over it, I would recommend rubber rather than something that is actually sticky, a piece form an old inner tube would be ideal imo
congo181
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 519
- Location
- Maidstone, Kent, U.K.
Were the defenders not all painted then? I know the series all had galv cappings but I though after that they were all painted. Mines a 1987 110 which had been painted yellow post factory but I thought the caps were all factory painted.leave it galv definitely, and at the same time remove the paint from the capping's so they are plain galv as well, like they should be
I do not know the exact change over point, the early 90/110's were still galv capping's but certainly all the defenders (pedantically post tdi introduction when they were actually called defenders) were painted. I assume the painting them coincided with stopping galvanising them sometime in the '80s. Because you have got the series look limestone sides my preference would certainly be galv cappings. Again I may be wrong but I would have though by the time the cappings were painted the sides would have been body coloured with just the roof as white.
congo181
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 519
- Location
- Maidstone, Kent, U.K.
Interesting info.
The body is quite a bitsa, with the sides and roof coming from two different donor vehicles (eBay is your friend). The tub is original, but as I say, had been (badly) painted post-factory, and pre-me so I don’t have the original spec.
I haven’t gone for a concourse finish as it’s all so very original - at 34 years she should have a few dents. Also, the paint was my first attempt at auto spraying, so it’s by no means perfect.
If the tub had been a lot worse I’d probably have removed the cappings, but it’s all too late now
Talking of paint….
That’s the last bit of the job painted just now. Yay.
that is as it should be, the do not look right if you make them perfect. I have done the same with both of mine although I didn't bother learning or trying to spray them, i used a gloss roller!
