Caster correction - swivels/arms/bushes or slice/bodge/weld?

Saw the ****part advert for caster corrected swivels the other day which got me thinking and reading. As far as I can see, they're the ideal solution as they don't stuff up the pinion angles and rotate the axle. But they don't do them for abs equipped cars, which is no help to me.

So, cranked front arms will help apart from rotating the axle round, or a cheaper alternative is to fit offset/eccentric bushes, but it seems they require a feck off big press and some adjustment which could be awkward.

The other options it seems, is to either get the existing swivel ball holes slotted/milled out to allow them to rotate and regain the caster, or cut something (end bolt flange or just the end of the axle tube) off the axle, twazzle the thing roun 3/4deg and then weld it up, but that will not be happening as the car carries my family on a daily basis.

So what the hell to do? The steering is ok, but I want the nice stable 'return to centre feel' that it used to have so that it feels more relaxed when driving at 50+ or on but by lanes at speed.

I'm thinking the only real option is the cranked front arms for now and just plan on more front prop maintenance and/wide angle props.

Any thoughts?

If your just on a 2" lift don't bother with caster correction is knackers the prop angle.

Use a RTC damper to help with centring.

even with a W/A or double Kim Kardashian prop?

caster corrected swivels wouldn't affect the prop angle though, which is what makes them an attractive option. Fornicatum expensivium though

Saltlick said:

caster corrected swivels wouldn't affect the prop angle though, which is what makes them an attractive option. Fornicatum expensivium though

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I'm sure I have read in a LR forum, not sure where now, of remachining the fixing holes of the swivels where the ball end bolts to the axle/diff housing.
Calculate the amount of slotting required for the adjustment and set the swivel balls up on a rotary table on a milling machine, use a suitable size slot drill and slightly elongate the holes.
They are located concentrically with a substantial spigot to the axle housing, so should still retain integrity.
It would pay to sus out legality of such a mod with regard to local laws.
But I know it was done wherever with some success from what I read.

Gazbo said:

I'm sure I have read in a LR forum, not sure where now, of remachining the fixing holes of the swivels where the ball end bolts to the axle/diff housing.
Calculate the amount of slotting required for the adjustment and set the swivel balls up on a rotary table on a milling machine, use a suitable size slot drill and slightly elongate the holes.
They are located concentrically with a substantial spigot to the axle housing, so should still retain integrity.
It would pay to sus out legality of such a mod with regard to local laws.
But I know it was done wherever with some success from what I read.

Click to expand...

Saltlick said:

The other options it seems, is to either get the existing swivel ball holes slotted/milled out to allow them to rotate and regain the caster, or cut something (end bolt flange or just the end of the axle tube) off the axle, twazzle the thing roun 3/4deg and then weld it up, but that will not be happening as the car carries my family on a daily basis.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the input, but I don't really want to go down that route. I have access to a lot of machine shop equipment and a very talented engineer if need also be, but I'd rather be adding strength than taking it away if I need to make changes.

There are also a lot of suggestions on the net about welding up the swivel holes and then drilling new holes, but that also doesn't sit well with me - welding castings with mild steel wire and no failure/stress testing equipment makes me twitchy!

Saltlick said:

Thanks for the input, but I don't really want to go down that route. I have access to a lot of machine shop equipment and a very talented engineer if need also be, but I'd rather be adding strength than taking it away if I need to make changes.

There are also a lot of suggestions on the net about welding up the swivel holes and then drilling new holes, but that also doesn't sit well with me - welding castings with mild steel wire and no failure/stress testing equipment makes me twitchy!

Click to expand...

You do realise that the amount of material needing to be removed from one side of each of the holes to get the kind of rotation to achieve the angle adjustment you require is pretty small, especially at that radius.
I understand your tending to caution, that is wise, but by the same token many will carry out other "bolt on" suspension mods along with enormous wheels/tyres that can overload bearings and other components by heaps, and all because a "silver tongue" acessories shop tells us this is what we need to have.
Whereas the guys who design our cars spend years in the process, it is a testament to their good design that no matter what we do in mods things don't break very often.