Carpet lining the bottom and sides of loading area

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Twinnie

Active Member
Posts
114
Location
Morocco
I'm sorry if this has been covered loads of times but I'm struggling to find the keywords to search for. The back of my 110 CSW is some big cold metal space right now. It's got no seats in and all the trim has been removed. I found this picture while I was searching this forum but now I can't find the thread anymore:
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachments/img_6471200312-jpg.30441/

Basically I want something like that but I have lots of questions and I was wondering what kind of experiences people had had. I like the look of that kind of hard wearing carpet you used to get at school but I don't know what to call it and what is right or wrong (I've heard people saying you shouldn't have the rubber backing). I also like it going up the side of the wall rather than getting the proper trim but are there any drawbacks? Is it going to be as good at insulating sound and heat? Do people bend the carpet around sharp edges or cut it? Should I line it? What should I stick it down with?

I see a lot of places recommend that felt stuff that modern car use to line their boots but with the filthy crap I drag around in the back it looks a bit weak and absorbent
 
Back of my 90 has factory carpet. I’ve got two seats still on one side and a tool box on the other. I then have a rubber mat ontop of carpet.
If I were you, I’d trim the load area in rubber matting, then if you want to do the side walls in stretch van lining carpet do that. You can dig the 4 way stretch or whatever it’s called right into tight corners etc.
Prior to doing any of this though, get a big pack of silent coat and lay that all over the bare metal. It’s really worth doing. I’ve only got my bulkhead done currently and that made a big difference. I’ll be doing rear tub at some point
Both carpet and rubber Matt will stick with spray adhesive.
 
My series is lined as its a camper but also carries fire wood and building rubble. Floor has a rubber mat and removable cut to fit van carpet - this is very thick and seems to be indestructable. You need to get the floor covering out as water can get under it and its easier to clean. The tub sides are covered with foil bubble spray glued down with vehicle carpet spray glued over, these don't come out as they don't get wet or so dirty. Other parts that don't get walked on are 4-way stretch van liner - very handy stuff. So I would say use 3 approaches - floor - hard wering rubber and removable, carpet over if need be. Sides - glued liner plus glued carpet, the rest, 4-way van liner.
 
Stable matting for the floor - very hardwearing, washable and fairly cheap. Get stuff with the hammered/dimple texture and it even looks OK.

The checker plate in 4mm is what iv'e got and looks good iv'e also cut and glued it to the cab floor plates...any carpet rubber backed should be good just stay away from foam backed
 
The checker plate in 4mm is what iv'e got and looks good iv'e also cut and glued it to the cab floor plates...any carpet rubber backed should be good just stay away from foam backed
So when we’re talking about backings are we saying to stay away from open cell foam because it will absorb water? I was thinking that rubber backing would cause water to sit and that something breathable would be better.
 
So when we’re talking about backings are we saying to stay away from open cell foam because it will absorb water? I was thinking that rubber backing would cause water to sit and that something breathable would be better.

Open cell foam is what it says will absorb water stick to surface and will degrade...rubber is what LR supply as standard to basic vehicles...just sort the leaks...OK I live in Portugal and when it rains it rains but my 101 see profile pic stays bone dry inside but Ford van rear door seals and roof rack fixings cause all sort of problems with leaks and condensation but the rubber factory mat in the back doesnt cause problems at all as it's fitted and impervious to water...
 
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