dubbleRR
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,018
- Location
- highlands of Scotland
starter motor brushes .try tapping the starter if it doint start again ,
Car won't start and its not due to lost sync
- Thread starter BensonP38
- Start date
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If I do keep the P38 I may have to keep a hammer in the boot
, I have already made a toolbox which live in the boots permanently in the corner with distilled water and engine oil...In addition I now have the nanocom in a watertight container too
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,888
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Brushes are highly unlikely and the tapping trick is for the starter solenoid not the brushes.
dubbleRR
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,018
- Location
- highlands of Scotland
if the brushes are near the end of there life ,they stick and work when they feel like it i know iv rebuilt more than my fair share...but he could touch a live feed to the solenoid see if it turns over.
dubbleRR
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 1,018
- Location
- highlands of Scotland
If the starter was still in the car ,solenoid clicking the engine would want to turn ,unless its not contacting ring gear.
clivesP38
Active Member
- Posts
- 179
Charge the battery first for 24 hrs, test to see what charge it is holding, should be about 12.5 to 12.8. Start RR up and check voltage again should be around 13.8v then put light and heater on and rev engine, check voltage at battery it should be around 14.2v. If after starting the RR the voltage doesn't increase then the alternator is no good. Having said all that check the belt is tight and still present!
OK , here is what I found today.
Battery now fully charged and car can start as per normal yay
Voltage across battery terminals at idle 13.4V
Voltage across alternator shell and positive thick wire at idle 14.2V
Voltage across alternator shell and positive terminal at idle 13.4V
Voltage across alternator positive terminal and battery - terminal 14.2V
If I get a piece of thick wire and connect the battery - to the ground point the battery shows 13.4V
If I get a piece of thick wire and connect the battery - to any part of the engine block I get 13.9V
I beginning to think as suggested by other that it is a wiring problem and the grounding wire don't seems to be doing anything at all. I will undo the grounding point and give it a good clean and get another new one from the battery - to the block.
However, do I need to do anything to the positive terminal at the alternator? I heard later model of P38 have a positive wire from alternator to battery , is that true?
Many thanks and I am grateful for all your help , my P38 is now running again
Battery now fully charged and car can start as per normal yay
Voltage across battery terminals at idle 13.4V
Voltage across alternator shell and positive thick wire at idle 14.2V
Voltage across alternator shell and positive terminal at idle 13.4V
Voltage across alternator positive terminal and battery - terminal 14.2V
If I get a piece of thick wire and connect the battery - to the ground point the battery shows 13.4V
If I get a piece of thick wire and connect the battery - to any part of the engine block I get 13.9V
I beginning to think as suggested by other that it is a wiring problem and the grounding wire don't seems to be doing anything at all. I will undo the grounding point and give it a good clean and get another new one from the battery - to the block.
However, do I need to do anything to the positive terminal at the alternator? I heard later model of P38 have a positive wire from alternator to battery , is that true?
Many thanks and I am grateful for all your help , my P38 is now running again
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,888
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
The positive wires from the battery corrode away inside the plastic sheath sometimes.OK , here is what I found today.
Battery now fully charged and car can start as per normal yay
Voltage across battery terminals at idle 13.4V
Voltage across alternator shell and positive thick wire at idle 14.2V
Voltage across alternator shell and positive terminal at idle 13.4V
Voltage across alternator positive terminal and battery - terminal 14.2V
If I get a piece of thick wire and connect the battery - to the ground point the battery shows 13.4V
If I get a piece of thick wire and connect the battery - to any part of the engine block I get 13.9V
I beginning to think as suggested by other that it is a wiring problem and the grounding wire don't seems to be doing anything at all. I will undo the grounding point and give it a good clean and get another new one from the battery - to the block.
However, do I need to do anything to the positive terminal at the alternator? I heard later model of P38 have a positive wire from alternator to battery , is that true?
Many thanks and I am grateful for all your help , my P38 is now running again
No harm in running a heavy wire from the alternator positive direct to the battery. There should be a flexible earth from the engine block to the chassis.
This is part of the reason the battery not getting charged and starter not getting enough juice to start.
Added wire from alternator to battery and to ground, added earth point to battery
Now battery reading 14.1V idle, same as alternator and casing
Thanks everyone!!!!
Now there is a positive cable from battery + to fuse box and a very stiff smaller cable to god knows where and the ends seems to be brittle and going to fail soon, where does it go? I want to replace it but it just go into a brunch of cables with black plastic covering.
tomcat59alan
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 18,611
- Location
- wirral and triquivijate
Every good toolbox should have a good selection of Manchester micrometers, in various weightsIf I do keep the P38 I may have to keep a hammer in the boot
In addition I now have the nanocom in a watertight container too
:smash:
