Cant get reverse gear. R380.

jamesmartin · Mar 18, 2019

mick the builder said:
Im plucking at straws here but could i have been supplied with the wrong trust bearing? i.e. not as long on the shaft as the proper one. As its had a new complete clutch fitted im wondering if a different bearing would fit on the shaft but being thinner, wouldnt press enough on the diaphragm spring.

theres only one ftc5200 it can have a wide or thin thrust face but work the same

mick the builder · Mar 18, 2019

jamesmartin said:
theres only one ftc5200 it can have a wide or thin thrust face but work the same

Got to get this sorted as ive just acquired a 64 mf 35x off my uncle that needs total body resto. The missus wont put up with all these half done projects around the house.

jamesmartin · Mar 18, 2019

mick the builder said:
Got to get this sorted as ive just acquired a 64 mf 35x off my uncle that needs total body resto. The missus wont put up with all these half done projects around the house.

nice,
yes gear change needs a solution either way

nobber · Mar 18, 2019

Where is your biting point on the clutch?

mick the builder · Mar 18, 2019

nobber said:
Where is your biting point on the clutch?

Cant think off hand but it must be about 1 1/2 - 2 inches off the floor. Feels fine.

nobber · Mar 19, 2019

If mine was that close to the floor I would be looking at the hydraulics.

Gmacz · Mar 19, 2019

Get underneath and manually lever the clutch to it's full extent and get someone to see if it engages reverse. This bypasses the hydraulics. The other thing is the clutch lever could it be cracked and just bending and not pushing the bearing properly.

mick the builder · Mar 19, 2019

Gmacz said:
Get underneath and manually lever the clutch to it's full extent and get someone to see if it engages reverse. This bypasses the hydraulics. The other thing is the clutch lever could it be cracked and just bending and not pushing the bearing properly.

I had thought of that. If I can get a bar to lever the push rod while the missus tries for reverse. I'm sure hydraulics are fine. I'll adjust the push rod first on the mc but I'm not too optimist as it's a total block on reverse ,not even crunching.

mick the builder · Mar 19, 2019

Not much time spent on it today but I adjusted the back nut on the mc push rod so no thread showing giving it about 5mm more travel . This made selecting all forward gears easier. I still couldn't go to reverse, unless.. I selected 4th then straight out and try for reverse. With a bit of manoeuvring it went in. So, I have to line up gears with 4th and that's the only way I can eventually get reverse with engine running. Biting point is now about 1/4 inch above bare floor. Any thoughts for next step.?

jamesmartin · Mar 19, 2019

mick the builder said:
Not much time spent on it today but I adjusted the back nut on the mc push rod so no thread showing giving it about 5mm more travel . This made selecting all forward gears easier. I still couldn't go to reverse, unless.. I selected 4th then straight out and try for reverse. With a bit of manoeuvring it went in. So, I have to line up gears with 4th and that's the only way I can eventually get reverse with engine running. Biting point is now about 1/4 inch above bare floor. Any thoughts for next step.?

id think youve reduced some drag and 4th is helping alignment with rev gear,which would indicate clutch cover or your not getting enough travel,is there any shims between slave and bellhousing

mick the builder · Mar 19, 2019

jamesmartin said:
id think youve reduced some drag and 4th is helping alignment with rev gear,which would indicate clutch cover or your not getting enough travel,is there any shims between slave and bellhousing

No shims. Would putting a nut back behind slave rod be next step

jamesmartin · Mar 19, 2019

mick the builder said:
No shims. Would putting a nut back behind slave rod be next step

yes ,i thought youd tried that

mick the builder · Mar 19, 2019

jamesmartin said:
yes ,i thought youd tried that

I did before changing sc. Then took it out.

mick the builder · Mar 19, 2019

5mm nut put behind push rod.have to search for reverse but get it in the end . Lots of noise in 4th and 5th in drive but goes with clutch in.https://photos.app.goo.gl/o125mwAFrS29czLq8

jamesmartin · Mar 19, 2019

mick the builder said:
5mm nut put behind push rod.have to search for reverse but get it in the end . Lots of noise in 4th and 5th in drive but goes with clutch in.https://photos.app.goo.gl/o125mwAFrS29czLq8

the noise and rattle is using high gears with wheels off the ground its ok for short test purposes but dont do it for long, it seems your proving clutch isnt clearing if it needs a long stroke its needs a new clutch cover

mick the builder · Mar 19, 2019

So you reckon new pressure plate could be duff. I could put old one back but there's a lot of wear on the diaphragm spring .

tottot · Mar 19, 2019

Slave rod worn short?

jamesmartin · Mar 19, 2019

mick the builder said:
So you reckon new pressure plate could be duff. I could put old one back but there's a lot of wear on the diaphragm spring .

that would prove that one way or another , ive had several such where it was a duff pressure plate

mick the builder · Mar 19, 2019

jamesmartin said:
that would prove that one way or another , ive had several such where it was a duff pressure plate

I managed to drive it up and down the lane a couple of times tonight ,first outing in four years. I think your right about the pressure plate / clutch issue. Gears getting easier to select, even reverse . I'm over the moon. Don't mind a new clutch but haven't got the cash for anything more major. Thanks for sticking with me once again James and helping me out. I even managed to get time to sort out the soldering on the LED lights. Cheers .

freelance · Mar 20, 2019

Depending how long ago clutch was installed, it could just be surface rust grabbing new clutch plate, use it and abuse it for a few days and see if it improves

Cant get reverse gear. R380.

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