Disco 2 Can't get into 1st gear whilst moving

GrantM123 said:

Within the last year, It's slowly been getting more and more difficult to get into 1st gear whilst moving at any speed other than a dead stop. It will just grind until you are stopped, then it will very easily get into 1st with no other issues at all. All other gears are also smooth as can be!

One thing to note, we do quite a bit of deep wading. I recently changed the oil in the gearbox and to no surprise, it was all milky (I have extended the breathers, but they appear to have been ripped out at some point). We've probably been driving around like this for a while, so I'm sure it hasn't helped

I've been wanting to change the transfer case to one with diff lock (mine doesn't even have the nipple), so unless there is something easy/cheap to fix this issue, I think I might just stick a new gearbox in alongside it!

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ronsealdeath said:

If its an r380, running them on mtf94 can help over ATF

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Stanleysteamer said:

When I first started driving, many moons ago, lots of cars didn't have synchromesh on first. It wasn't seen as necessary. You just rolled to a stop then put it in gear. If you really wanted to put it in on the move, you double-declutched.
My Disco 1 Anniversary is a bit crunchy in second as well, if you rush the change. I like double-declutching! I is too old skool!

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GrantM123 said:

I wanted to give it another flush, so I'll give this a go. Are additives such as molly slip any good?


I struggle for power on any sort of incline unless in 1st due to the bigger tyres. I need to get that sorted soon with different gearing. I'll give double clutching a go, makes sense if the synchro has disappeared

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tilly2 said:

I would guess that your water ingress is via the input shaft seal, via the bell housing. My breathers were watertight. My gearbox was full of chocolate milk, and a few months after changing the oil, the input bearing gave up the ghost. The input seal was shagged, and there was at least a 1mm gap.

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