Can this memory seat ecu be saved? Pics inside...

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VogueLSE4.2

VogueLSE4.2

Active Member
Posts
119
The driver's seat in my '93 has never worked as long as I've had the car, and the mirrors sometimes activate themselves, so I decided to take a look. I checked the fuses under the seat - all ok - then removed the ECU. This is what I found...

5e287b4b.jpg


6ab8bd7f.jpg


As you can see, the battery has leaked onto the board. Can I save this ecu by replacing the battery and possibly also the two large chips next to it, or is it a lost cause?

Brian.
 
To me it looks like the continuity of the circuit can be your biggest problem. Try to gently clean the blueish residue on all the contacts and then check for continuity with a multimeter between the legs of the connected elements. If all are ok, then you have a chance, but by the look of it, i think it's ****ed. The chips are probably ok, but the PCB isn't.
I know a guy who bridged all the corroded parts with small solder-on wires, but is it worth it, that depends on you :)
 
you can get the battery and the chips i bought some of ebay last year and did the job pretty easily.
i am at the moment making a replacement loom to keep the seat going for vlassic owners but you will loose the seat mem function and need a mirror ecu too
 
Thanks for the advice folks.

I saw the replacement battery on ebay, but I'm not really any good with electrics of this nature. I wouldn't even know what tools I need?

Would there be somewhere I could send it away to to have the battery replace?
 
Board looks in bad shape, probably worse under the battery. A specialist electrical engineer might be able to do something with it but watch the cost.The chances of finding a replacement ecu (working) is very slim and currently expect to pay anything up to £300.00+ for a fully working one.

Battery is easy enough if you are able to solder. As I posted in another thread - don't be suckered in to thinking it is an exotic battery in there coz it aint you can use this: 1 x Varta Mempac Rechargeable 3/V150H NiMH Battery 3.6v 140mAh (3/V150H) = £4.99 from AAA Rechargeable Batteries | AA Battery Chargers | Cordless Phone Batteries, Duracell, Procell Batteries | CR123A

The driver chips are available as well, I can't remember what type they are but again nothing exotic. There is a guy on ebay who sells driver chips and batteries but I thought a bit over priced. HTH
 
VogueLSE4.2 said:
Thanks for the advice folks.

I saw the replacement battery on ebay, but I'm not really any good with electrics of this nature. I wouldn't even know what tools I need?

Would there be somewhere I could send it away to to have the battery replace?
Click to expand...

Looks eminantly repairable, problem is I would have no means of properly testing it.
If you want to post it to me I'll give it a go on a no fix no fee basis, just pay the return postage. It looks a lot simpler than many of the boards I do:) PM me if you are interested.
 
I have taken my control unit out that was all still working perfectly
and i'm just looking to replace the battery, i've found the battery which
looks to be a

Varta PRC 9864

Is there anything more involved other than removing the old battery
and re soldering on the new one ?

Does anyone know of anywhere/one that does this
 
One question, a bit unrelated:

Is it possible to mount those electric seats in a model, which was not built for them, for instance a P38A without electric seats?

Thank you!
 
dunkan said:
I have taken my control unit out that was all still working perfectly
and i'm just looking to replace the battery, i've found the battery which
looks to be a

Varta PRC 9864

Is there anything more involved other than removing the old battery
and re soldering on the new one ?

Does anyone know of anywhere/one that does this
Click to expand...

Replacing the battery is easy enough. If you can use a soldering iron it should be fine.
 
That looks a tad past it to me.
The drivers are corroded & the contacts for the drivers will be seperated from the pcb.

Keith, you're a brave man to take that on.
 
Datatek said:
I got it working as far as bench testing was concerned, sent it back and never heard again, never even paid the postage.
Click to expand...

That's rather poor show considering how much these units are.

Is there any trick to replacing the battery, i can't re call the last time i
used a soldering iron,
 
take up Datatek's offer..!!

though looking at that board i would say its gonna be unreliable for ever even if repaired..corrosive battery acid and pcb's tend not to mix..(even if corrosion id removed..) ie short term fix only..

i have designed and built many surface mount pcb's...just built my gearbox ecu..
..

though i still say take up the offer..nothing to lose!
 
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