Can it be saved ??

Gphilla · Apr 15, 2013

Managed to get the rear tub off my 110 at the weekend only to find several holes caused by rust. This being my first landy and only owned a couple of weeks, i am curious to know at what point do you have give up on the patching and replace ie rear x member and outriggers ?
I will get some photo's up when i get home but just wondered what people have managed to resurrect in the past ??

lorri789 · Apr 15, 2013

Post a pic and we'll see!

Gphilla · Apr 15, 2013

yeh there kinda is that missing it would help, i'll get some up this eve was just pondering on my lunch

Stag1962 · Apr 15, 2013

Depending how good a fabricator/welder you are.
Me being tight would go for plasma holes out and new plate mig welded in.
But I have the use of the facilities at work. Ramps and welding plant.

Gphilla · Apr 15, 2013

I have possibly that little bit of knowlage that might prove dangerous and a borrowed MIG

trax · Apr 15, 2013

Gphilla said:
I have possibly that little bit of knowlage that might prove dangerous and a borrowed MIG

:clap2: You can do it.. take lots of pics

Jongould · Apr 15, 2013

to be honest if you have got the time and money a re-chassis with a galv chassis is your best option but its not a 5 minute job plus your looking at £1200 for the chassis. I have seens chassis's which have been plated/rebuilt so much theres barely any original metal left, if done properly though there is no reason not to keep patching...

MrJC · Apr 15, 2013

If you want inspiration look at Billy budget rebuild a few threads down and see the rebuild he is doing it covers the holes you describe in the chassis with pics.... If you start tapping around you will find more holes, then another! Price up rear x member and out riggers but if you can do it yourself thats fine.. I reckon if you get a galvanised chassis you would get at least half your money back if you sell it on... a welded patched rusty chassis is called a project and reduces the value of the Landy but it is fun.

Gphilla · Apr 15, 2013

Cheers but a galvanised chassis is way out the price range and technical ability, here are some photos of the offending items

http://s1122.photobucket.com/user/gphilla/media/photo1_zps25dd913e.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3

Station House · Apr 15, 2013

Linky not working, but in my experience, probably is the answer

Gphilla · Apr 15, 2013

Ok looks like that didnt work, i'll try it this way

Dr_evil · Apr 15, 2013

easy job

Turboman · Apr 15, 2013

Ive seen worse than that repaired, although as posted you will find more if you go at it with a grinder!
You can get prefabricated outriggers, xmembers, possibly even a whole rear chassis if you want to save time on the plating.

Gphilla · Apr 15, 2013

Thanks for your comments, with a couple of the patches near fuel line/tank i dare say i'll be best removing but will i need to prime the system before it will run again once reconnected ???

Dr_evil · Apr 15, 2013

Be ok with tank in I'd think just move the lines away but for safety might as well

System will just need bled through after unless its auto prime

Qb90 · Apr 15, 2013

Thats a definate candidate for repair mate plenty out there worse than that

Rakthi · Apr 16, 2013

Since you already got half the body of, might as well get a galvanised chassis.

pressbrake · Apr 16, 2013

i have worse come in on a regular basis for repair

blackhadder · Apr 16, 2013

You'll have fun doing it, you'll learn loads and save a shedload of pennies. Get decent quality replacement bits, get rid of all the rust, and it'll be as good as new!!!

Can it be saved ??

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