Camblet changed, now ?clutch slipping?

Ok - so just replaced leaky water pump on my 53 plate 1.8 K-series petrol Freelander, and replaced cam belt at the same time. I used the flywheel locking tool which meant removing the starter motor, as the engine turned over when in 5th gear/standing on brakes. Everything went back fine.

Engine sounds sweet and road test was great for the first 5 minutes, although the clutch pedal felt a bit sticky when releasing it - I put it down to the boots I was wearing and having driven other cars for a few days.

I stopped for petrol. Pulled away in first, heard what I thought was a slight clunk (but assumed was road noise on the concrete forecourt), pushed clutch in for second and the pedal stuck half-way backup. I had to pull it up with my toe. Now there is no power in the car.

I can engage gears very easily (as easily as when the engine isn't running), and I can drive VERY slowly in first or second (like walking pace), but nothing else. Towed car home and am now tring to convince she who must be obeyed that it was not my handiwork at fault.

Can any suggest a problem or something I may have done at the flywheel end of the last job?

It just seems as though the clutch is almost completely slipping, but just engaging enough for a little bit of forward motion. There is no unusual sound and no smell of burning clutch either. Makes no difference if I try reverse. The top inch or so of pedal travel is soft/floppy, but has been for a long time. Normally the biting position is somewhere between half and 3/4 of the way up the pedal release. I don't think there have been any signs of anything unusual prior to the waterpump leak and change.

Help!

I have a reasonable array of tools (well more than I have knuckles left) and the guts to go try stuff.

Thanks

Robin

Sounds like the rod that activates the clutch that goes thru the gearbox may be siezing. It's a fairly common problem. I believe you might be able to free it off by using penetrating oil on the shaft where it goes in the gearbox.
Good Luck

Many thanks for the quick reply - very much appreciated.

I'm not quite sure which rod you mean and can't see it on the Rave. Any chance you could be a bot more specific (and apologies if I'm just being fik!)

Robin

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-clutch-bracket-cylinder-help-113503.html

have a quick look at this.

To be honest I haven't got a 1.8 petrol, I have a TD4 (that has had slave cylinder replaced) so I cant really be more specific. I have just had a look at Rave 33-5 and I think the bit that seizes is the bit the rod out of the slave cylinder attaches to or pushes.
Sorry I cant be more specific. If you have a search here you should find others who have had the same problem.

Thanks both. I had searched the problem on the forum before posting, and came across the seized shaft issue - but the symptom of that seems to be a very stiff clutch pedal. Mine operates entirely normally - just seems that there is no engagement (or very slight engagement as I can just about get some forward motion).

I'll go and have a look with the WD40 and report back.

In the meantime, if anyone else has some suggestions I'd be very grateful....

the mounting bracket for the slave cylinder has been known to bend and push the slave cylinder back thus not allowing it to engage fully.

is the clutch mechanism noisy when disengaged with engine running