Cam Belt help please

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Diesel Do said:
Well I personally check and adjust the timing every time I do one. It takes no longer That way it will run as its meant to. Admittedly you'd be unlucky if the belts were that different it caused a significant problem. But it can happen. My theory is if it's right there's no come back.
A lot of more modern engines don't even have timing marks because they aren't precise enough. Ive seen too many with poor starting, lumpy idle, white smoke because of belt changes! You can tell because of the tipex. They end up in main dealers often costing a fortune because the owner doesn't know what to do! But yes it is only a small minority of unlucky ones!
Well that's my opinion for what it's worth.
If you hadn't guessed I'm a mechanic too! I'm not a land rover guru. But I'm used to far more complex engines!
Click to expand...

Regarding modern engines im 100% with you there, they are alot more finite and as im sure your aware many now change cam pulleys and all sorts so locking is quite essential
 
got a pump locking tool and a flywheel locking tool for 12 quid off the bay,
made a crank pully tool by drilling two holes in a bit of bar and using two of the long timing cover bolts . I tried it first without the tools and really cocked it up, with the tools it was a breeze but I have to say the belt was tight to get on and it was a genuine LR one

been fine for the last 2k though!!
 
I did my 200 tdi by locking the fuel pump ( 9.5mm drill bit ) loosened the crank pully bolt & used the bolt, a piece of flat metal with two holes drilled in it & put two bolts in to the threads on the pully
as you undo the main crank bolt it pulls the pully off with it ;)
Took a bit of head scratching & various washers, spacers etc but it pulled off in the end.
Cheap solution if you are skint !
as for the flywheel - just make sure it has not moved by poking a screwdriver in ( as mentioned above ) and it should be fine - theres timing marks anyway as long as these are lined up jobs a goodn !
No need for all these expensive tools if you give things a bit of thought & have time !
I cant see the 300 tdi is much different so that should work for you too
 
Last edited:
offroadmad said:
I did my 200 tdi by locking the fuel pump ( 9.5mm drill bit ) loosened the crank pully bolt & used the bolt, a piece of flat metal with two holes drilled in it & put two bolts in to the threads on the pully
as you undo the main crank bolt it pulls the pully off with it ;)
Took a bit of head scratching & various washers, spacers etc but it pulled off in the end.
Cheap solution if you are skint !
as for the flywheel - just make sure it has not moved by poking a screwdriver in ( as mentioned above ) and it should be fine - theres timing marks anyway as long as these are lined up jobs a goodn !
No need for all these expensive tools if you give things a bit of thought & have time !
I cant see the 300 tdi is much different so that should work for you too
Click to expand...

Getting the crank pulley off is more complicated on a 300tdi as the damper and pulley are all one, so the crank holding tool (rather than positioning tool) is a more elaborate affair. You a right though timing marks and and a drill bit will do the job, its just easier with the special tools.
 
I am slightly confused on what’s needed to do a 1996 300TDi EDC Automatic.

I looked at a full kit sold on fleabay and was told by the seller his puller and locking tool were OK for all 300tdi's but the locking pins were not suitable for EDC models.

So I searched for EDC crank locking pins as suggested and the ones I found only fit manual models not autos?

So what is needed for an Automatic?
 
just looking in me haynes manual... for the automatic it shows a bigger hole in the bottom of the flywheel housing with a cover plate held by two bolts.... the special tool for the auto apears to be a cover plate with a hole in the middle the same size as the plug hole on the manual, so the manual plug with a hole for drill bit fits in the modified cover plate,
its even got piccies.
 
my two penneth
made my own timing tools ages ago. timed up as usual when i did the 300's belt.
out of interest (and sluggishness at junctions) rechecked timing about 6k miles later (done thru pump pulley cover)
belt stretch gave me about 1/16th inch out of line with timing tools.
imo timing couldnt be acheived visually and the tools are a must.
unless your in the middle of nowhere!
 
Hi

thanks for all replys everyone, but not sure about the flywheel bit as mine is auto edc, also if making your own tools up how do you get on with the crank pulleys and the oil seal as i figure if im goin tio attempt it i might as well do the whole job??
 
gaz8885 said:
Hi

thanks for all replys everyone, but not sure about the flywheel bit as mine is auto edc, also if making your own tools up how do you get on with the crank pulleys and the oil seal as i figure if im going to attempt it i might as well do the whole job??
Click to expand...


On an auto, I believe that you block the torque converter (which is a fluid flywheel) to achieve the same effect. As someone said earlier it is accessible via a 4" round plate on the flywheel housing.

If you bought a decent kit it would come with the pullers to remove the crankshaft serp belt pulley and the crankshaft cambelt pulley. Once the cambelt pulley is off, you can access the crankshaft oil, for replacement.
 
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