Freelander 1 Buying meself a donor!

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Zejmjien

Zejmjien

Active Member
Posts
347
Location
Malta
So, have been running around today and came across a beauty of a doner. Its a v6 auto ES model 3 door. Most parts have already been removed but am only interested in the back half in order to create a towable half hippo.
Not keen on keeping the engine as current owner said it has some kind of fault related to compression and I think it will guzzle fuel like hell if repaired anyway.

Question1: is there anypoint in keeping the gearbox? Does it fit with other engine types?
Question 2: is it possible to keep the rear part working after it has been split in two (i.e. central lock and rear door working etc)
 
1) The Jatco auto boxes are used on both V6 and TD4 - but I presume their setup (gearing) is totally different for the 2 engines.

2) You mean you want to create a trailer out of the the back/cabin? This has been done before. Your should think carefully about what you say because it is not a case of whether you 'can keep' the electrics to operate the back door/window - you must keep some electrics to drop the window or else you won't be able to get into it. I don't know how you do it - I'd start by dragging the whole loom out of the engine bay and dash into the cabin - and the extra bits such as IR pickup. Then take bits away until it doesn't work any more! You'll also have to think of power - obviously this lot runs off the cars battery - so you'll need a battery in the trailer or a hook up to the cars power. If you use the car's power, that means you won't be able to open it when its not hooked up. If you use a separate battery you'll need to hook up a charging system when it is connected and hope it doesn't drain between uses. Big job what ever.
 
Thanks for the info:)

I presume the gearings might be different. How about IRD and stuff?

The finished product should look like the attached. It will (most likely) have its own on board battery with a cut-off to avoid draining. What I need to know really is where such control units are located both central locking and window controller. I think one of them is the brownish one fitted just on top of the cabin light no? the other one remains a mystery, unless it is controlled by the same one
 

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Zejmjien said:
Thanks for the info:)

I presume the gearings might be different. How about IRD and stuff?

The finished product should look like the attached. It will (most likely) have its own on board battery with a cut-off to avoid draining. What I need to know really is where such control units are located both central locking and window controller. I think one of them is the brownish one fitted just on top of the cabin light no? the other one remains a mystery, unless it is controlled by the same one
Click to expand...
The gearbox ratios are different between TD4 and V6. However the valve block is the same iirc. This will have a value, on the second hand market. ;)
The V6 IRD is a different ratio from the TD4 but does actually fit so could be used if you need to. The rear diff is the same, as is all the suspension/ drive shafts.
The rear window/door will need some kind of control circuit to replicate the CCU control function. Joe H might be your man for logic circuits needed for such a task.
 
Nodge68 said:
The gearbox ratios are different between TD4 and V6. However the valve block is the same iirc. This will have a value, on the second hand market. ;)
The V6 IRD is a different ratio from the TD4 but does actually fit so could be used if you need to. The rear diff is the same, as is all the suspension/ drive shafts.
The rear window/door will need some kind of control circuit to replicate the CCU control function. Joe H might be your man for logic circuits needed for such a task.
Click to expand...

Thanks! If its only a matter of logic circuits I may have it covered but will appreciate any help. Any idea where this CCU is located? maybe I can use the same unit powered by 12v?

P.s. sorry to sound stupid but...what valve block?
 
Zejmjien said:
Thanks! If its only a matter of logic circuits I may have it covered but will appreciate any help. Any idea where this CCU is located? maybe I can use the same unit powered by 12v?
Click to expand...
The CCU (central contol unit) is fitted to the back of the inside fuse box.
The CCU controls the door locks, rear window and lock as well as the interior light and a few other bits and pieces.
I don't know if you could use a complete CCU to dive the rear window/door lock. It would be easier to make up a simple logic controller to drive the window/ door lock.

Zejmjien said:
Thanks! If its only a matter of logic circuits I may have it covered but will appreciate any help. Any idea where this CCU is located? maybe I can use the same unit powered by 12v?

P.s. sorry to sound stupid but...what valve block?
Click to expand...
The valve block is the gearboxes hydraulic control system. This is small, light, easily salvaged and posted to someone who could use it as spares. Obviously you would exchange the valve block assembly for money towards your project;)
 
Nodge68 said:
The CCU (central contol unit) is fitted to the back of the inside fuse box.
The CCU controls the door locks, rear window and lock as well as the interior light and a few other bits and pieces.
I don't know if you could use a complete CCU to dive the rear window/door lock. It would be easier to make up a simple logic controller to drive the window/ door lock.


The valve block is the gearboxes hydraulic control system. This is small, light, easily salvaged and posted to someone who could use it as spares. Obviously you would exchange the valve block assembly for money towards your project;)
Click to expand...

Thanks that is some quality info. I will keep an eye open for them. I would like to keep the central lock working via the fob if possible so I would try my best to keep this critter working
 
how do you plan on making the brakes work?
dont forget if its heavier than 750kg it must be fitted with brakes.
also if its lighter than 750kg but it has brakes they must work.

not sure on all the electrical gubbins. looks like a decent project though. all the best
 
Gaj1612 said:
how do you plan on making the brakes work?
dont forget if its heavier than 750kg it must be fitted with brakes.
also if its lighter than 750kg but it has brakes they must work.

not sure on all the electrical gubbins. looks like a decent project though. all the best
Click to expand...
I am planning on leaving the handbrake to be operated manually when it is unhitched/parked. Not keen on having brakes on it while hitched though. I have seen empty trailers lock wheels while braking and it scares me a bit :)

TheQ said:
I'd rather have a shish kebab
Click to expand...
I'd join you with that anytime :)
 
flat said:
I brought a doner the other night, garlic sauce and some of those green chilli things.

I think you meant donor lol
Click to expand...

Yup buy I was too happy about the idea at that time haha (can I edit the title?)

Edit: I don't know what you are talkin about :p
 
Gaj1612 said:
how do you plan on making the brakes work?
dont forget if its heavier than 750kg it must be fitted with brakes.
also if its lighter than 750kg but it has brakes they must work.

not sure on all the electrical gubbins. looks like a decent project though. all the best
Click to expand...
The brakes are very easy to sort compared to other complications like making up the A frame or getting the rear door to work. The Freelander already has all that is needed in the drum. So a simple overrun brake operating the cables or hydraulic cylinders will work just fine. I'm not sure that Maltese authorities will have such a strict adherence to such things anyway. Besides RV owners seem to drag all manor of unbrakes cars all round the UK on simple A frames these days, without giving the 750Kg MAM a second thought.
 
flat said:
Nicely done :D
Click to expand...
Cheers mate :D

Nodge68 said:
The brakes are very easy to sort compared to other complications like making up the A frame or getting the rear door to work. The Freelander already has all that is needed in the drum. So a simple overrun brake operating the cables or hydraulic cylinders will work just fine. I'm not sure that Maltese authorities will have such a strict adherence to such things anyway. Besides RV owners seem to drag all manor of unbrakes cars all round the UK on simple A frames these days, without giving the 750Kg MAM a second thought.
Click to expand...
The A frame is not quite my worry. I am planning(for now) to make it out of hollow section which in turn bolt to the chassis via the seat mounts and an extra locknut on the bottom or weld themselves to the chassis. Being an electronic technician by trade I am not keen on having electronically controlled brakes (via an actuator) but I think it is the only way to have it braked while driving as a precaution I may position the actuator slightly backwards so if it opens fully it will still not lock the wheels. The current handbrake will then have it secured when unhitched

I have also come up with the idea to parallel the signals from the rear door of the driver car. I.e will lock with the same fob, have a control switch for the window on the back of the driver car etc. but having said all that it only works when hitched soooo I'm not too keen on it. I would prefer to have it as an independent unit so it is most likely back to circuit designing haha
 
No need for an electronic brake actuator. A simple mechanical overrun brake from an old caravan or large trailer is all that's required to activate the standard shoes.
 
Nodge68 said:
No need for an electronic brake actuator. A simple mechanical overrun brake from an old caravan or large trailer is all that's required to activate the standard shoes.
Click to expand...
You will need to activate them in some way while driving though. What will they be connected to?
 
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