buying freelander
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Northern Irelander
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There are mixed views on the FL. Personally I think they are great all rounders, despite a few flaws and problems reported by some folks on this forum. Earlier models are going for a song due to market value, you could get a bargain.
Parts are relatively cheap but most garages will charge an arm and a leg for the labour, but then dont all garages these days. You could of course be prepared to get your hands dirty and with help from the guys on here, they'll keep you right
V6 and 1.8 petrol have had engine problems due to design flaws in the Head gasket. But these have been resolved due to gasket improvements and Pressure release thermostats/ optional re-circ electrical coolant pump on engine switch off.
The 2.0 l-series diesel and Td4 are the sensible option for fuel economy and for low-end torque for towing. Td4 is quiter but has more electronics involved.
Search the Similar Thread section at the bottom of the page for more info on FL purchasing and Mad hat mans Frequently asked question thread
Parts are relatively cheap but most garages will charge an arm and a leg for the labour, but then dont all garages these days. You could of course be prepared to get your hands dirty and with help from the guys on here, they'll keep you right
V6 and 1.8 petrol have had engine problems due to design flaws in the Head gasket. But these have been resolved due to gasket improvements and Pressure release thermostats/ optional re-circ electrical coolant pump on engine switch off.
The 2.0 l-series diesel and Td4 are the sensible option for fuel economy and for low-end torque for towing. Td4 is quiter but has more electronics involved.
Search the Similar Thread section at the bottom of the page for more info on FL purchasing and Mad hat mans Frequently asked question thread
cartman690
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I agree with most of
the above have a good read in the freelander section here, and take someone who knows fl when looking at one, youl get alot of advice on here, my advice is dont be rushed. I have a 2001 td4 131,000 miles on the clock there are some on here with alot more so they aint all bad. look for good service history, and keep ontop of the service when you get it. they can be a good car. good luck feller...
the above have a good read in the freelander section here, and take someone who knows fl when looking at one, youl get alot of advice on here, my advice is dont be rushed. I have a 2001 td4 131,000 miles on the clock there are some on here with alot more so they aint all bad. look for good service history, and keep ontop of the service when you get it. they can be a good car. good luck feller...
Hi m8,
go for a td4 its got a BMW lump and is by far the most reliable of the fleet.Mines done 144000 now with fsh and very little trouble.Check cv joints and also vc.Just remember that they arnt flying machines.The lump is under tuned in the FL comp to the same engine in the BMW so it will go for ever (well almost), just dont go near main dealers.
go for a td4 its got a BMW lump and is by far the most reliable of the fleet.Mines done 144000 now with fsh and very little trouble.Check cv joints and also vc.Just remember that they arnt flying machines.The lump is under tuned in the FL comp to the same engine in the BMW so it will go for ever (well almost), just dont go near main dealers.
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yella
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i aint sure but i reckon he is making it up, by resolved i think what he means is, they dunt make freelanders with these engines anymore
clutchdust
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It ain't!!!!!
Avoid all petrol freelanders and go for the Td4 or the Td4 or the Td4, but not the auto cos they do burn gearboxes out especially when towing a grain of sand.
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PLEASE!
dont touch it! (unless yu got very deep pockets)
Electric water pump is a "suggested" owner mod - not a lr mod.
go for the td4 mate - or at least a diesel
dont touch it! (unless yu got very deep pockets)
Electric water pump is a "suggested" owner mod - not a lr mod.
go for the td4 mate - or at least a diesel
Northern Irelander
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I have said it once and I'll say it again.....
If the 1.8 k-series was good enough for Lotus in the Elise then it is good enough for me in the FL.
Caterham also use the k-series engine. Yes the FL is alot heavier than these cars but only about 250-300 kg heavier than the Rover cars with the 1.8.
It is a revvy engine and demands to be revved to get the power from the higher end of the rev band (Just dont rev hard from cold). Like I said the diesels low end torque ideal for towing.
There are risks about buying any 2nd car: service history, number of previous owners, clean motor, mileage etc
Be careful about some 2nd 1.8's and 2.5 V6's. There are some botched jobs after initial head gasket failure (HGF). The new multi layer steel gasket is fitted but the cylinder liner heights not checked, leading to another HGF. You lose some power/compression in the cylinders because of the extra shim on the MLS, but I think Palen/Payen (spelling) do a MKII/III version of the original which doesnt effect the power.
For further reading (lots of) about improvements in the gasket see links below.
K Series Head Gasket developments - improved design - MG-Rover.org Forums
Lotus Elise: Rover K Series engine is rebuilt for more horsepower.
Guinness - There are a few older peeps on here (Statler and Waldorf) they dont really contribute much just shout alot from the balcony.
Like CARTMAN690 said dont be rushed take a few test drives in all models see what you think. Good luck!
If the 1.8 k-series was good enough for Lotus in the Elise then it is good enough for me in the FL.
Caterham also use the k-series engine. Yes the FL is alot heavier than these cars but only about 250-300 kg heavier than the Rover cars with the 1.8.
It is a revvy engine and demands to be revved to get the power from the higher end of the rev band (Just dont rev hard from cold). Like I said the diesels low end torque ideal for towing.
There are risks about buying any 2nd car: service history, number of previous owners, clean motor, mileage etc
Be careful about some 2nd 1.8's and 2.5 V6's. There are some botched jobs after initial head gasket failure (HGF). The new multi layer steel gasket is fitted but the cylinder liner heights not checked, leading to another HGF. You lose some power/compression in the cylinders because of the extra shim on the MLS, but I think Palen/Payen (spelling) do a MKII/III version of the original which doesnt effect the power.
For further reading (lots of) about improvements in the gasket see links below.
K Series Head Gasket developments - improved design - MG-Rover.org Forums
Lotus Elise: Rover K Series engine is rebuilt for more horsepower.
Guinness - There are a few older peeps on here (Statler and Waldorf) they dont really contribute much just shout alot from the balcony.
Like CARTMAN690 said dont be rushed take a few test drives in all models see what you think. Good luck!
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not withstanding wot lr says about the risks of buying second hand - it is a personal choice - go for lots of test drives, My point was - if i woz thinkin of getting another hippoo - i wud go for a diesel - less known for problems and residual value is better.
ming
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the doosles are the best ,td4 more refined ,bit sluggish, a chip tune or go faster gismo makes it er lot more fun. . . .
First post!
I have had 3 x Freddies:
1.8 - kept for 3 years and in that time had 4 head gaskets and a brake master cylinder fail. Otherwise OK but underpowered for towing. If you buy one of these I would advise full service history and get it from a main dealer who knows the vehicle.
TD4 Manual - kept for 2 years until I went on a LR Experience and fell in love with the auto box! No problems and towed a heavy dinghy with the minimium of fuss.
TD4 - Auto - best yet - love the auto box. Only problems have been numerous small oil leaks from oil pipes around the Turbo - not a major hassle and all replaced under warranty.
My recommendation like all the other posts is the TD4 - gearbox to suit you but I do like the auto!
Hope this helps.
TM
I have had 3 x Freddies:
1.8 - kept for 3 years and in that time had 4 head gaskets and a brake master cylinder fail. Otherwise OK but underpowered for towing. If you buy one of these I would advise full service history and get it from a main dealer who knows the vehicle.
TD4 Manual - kept for 2 years until I went on a LR Experience and fell in love with the auto box! No problems and towed a heavy dinghy with the minimium of fuss.
TD4 - Auto - best yet - love the auto box. Only problems have been numerous small oil leaks from oil pipes around the Turbo - not a major hassle and all replaced under warranty.
My recommendation like all the other posts is the TD4 - gearbox to suit you but I do like the auto!
Hope this helps.
TM
Northern Irelander
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Welcome to LZ
Crikey 4hgf in 3yrs. The initial hgf must have caused the liners to drop or else the cylinder head was warped/ or recess around the fire rings
Did the car overheat on the 1st hgf?
Some useful input TM from yet another satisfied FL owner
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here we go agin - anuvver fred that deteriorates into hgf problems!
When will yu listen, lr? hgf's invariably involve overheating in some way.
the cyl liners do not have to drop and multiple hgf's are not always due to poor workmanship.
as yu know, my kv6 had 2 hgf's in 3 years, the liner hts were all brilliant, the work was carried out by well known, experienced engine fitters, but it didnt stop it happening agin. I will always believe that it is a design issue with poor cooling and thermal hotspots contributing to localised boiling. Of course not every Hippoo suffers, but it doesnt mean they arent all susceptible!
Northern Irelander
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Cant speak for your experience of the V6 MHM but yes do go with the heat soak theory due to transverse position of V6.
But general consensus on MGRover.org is that if the 1.8k has had numerours hgf within a short space of time then there has been severe damage to the engine either liners or the head from the first HGF and should have been scrapped in the first instance.
Personally speaking my FL had HGF never overheated- The FL has done 6000 miles since HGF on the new MLS gasket and goes better than it ever did.
No reports and I emphasize as yet.... from the new MLS 1.8 k-series engines with PRT and new oil rail type on HGF but it is early days.
Think it was Outlander who said the new gasket failed on his but by his own admissions the liners were out of tolerance.
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reading above agin - i still maintain the best option wud be a deisel one - problems (possible/probable) - we could (and frequently do) rabbit on for days...
good luck Guinness, wotever yu decide on - we all hope its a good one - yu will find out.
slob
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do you really thing he's satiisfied with 4HG's in 3 years?? you have got to be on mind altering drugs. and and and if one HGF can mean the death of an engine dunt that mean something is very wrong?
Northern Irelander
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TM is satisfied with FL's on the whole.
HGF doesnt necessarily mean that the aluminium engine is scrapped it is only those engines that have overheated too severely.
there are different degrees of severity as to how the HGasket fails
The tolerances are only 0.05mm for head warpage. but if HGF and normal engine oil temperature at 120oC, then no probs. Cylinder head can be skimmed up to 0.2mm but liner variation means they have sunk into the block.
slob
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keep trying! you convince us one day that its a fine choice of engine and has no servere problems with over heating and terminal HGF..
i once had a water hose go on a ally engine. drove fer longer than i would have liked before stopping. renewed hose and drove fer another week with a blown head gasket, while awaiting new HG . skimmed head to just over max. allowed and refitted it with new HG. over two years later its still going.
don't think theres any change of doing that with the 1.8 fitted to the hippo.
i once had a water hose go on a ally engine. drove fer longer than i would have liked before stopping. renewed hose and drove fer another week with a blown head gasket, while awaiting new HG . skimmed head to just over max. allowed and refitted it with new HG. over two years later its still going.
don't think theres any change of doing that with the 1.8 fitted to the hippo.
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