Buying advice

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N33DLC

New Member
Posts
5
Location
midlands
Hi Guys,

Been looking for a while and after seeing a couple of dogs, Im going to ee a promising one tomorrow and would love to hear your thought and advice.

Its a Defender 90 td5 110 FSH

failed last mot on

  • Offside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.A.3)
  • Offside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.A.3)
    • Drivers floor excessively corroded

    Seller has said the floor under the pedal needs "plating"

    Are the love items of major concern?

    Buyer wants 8k

    Thanks in advance guys

    Greg
 
You handy with a welder? Once that rot sets in on the chassis it just gets worse and you'll fight a losing battle.

Personally I'd walk away just off the back of your description
 
reckon the chassis needs doing?

Yeah, the front and rear spring mounts/seats. Needs to be repaired well because it's very structural! Also if floor needs sorting under pedals, bulkhead probably needs looking at properly. Not a small job cuz the whole car is built off the bulkhead really.
Don't forget, it's only failed on what's noticeable on an MOT. You'd find plenty more with a screwdriver.

Walk away mate, there's better for 8k.

Gov.uk mot history is your friend
 
Looks like some work been done for MOT.

Date tested12 April 2018
FAIL
Mileage107,391 miles
MOT test number1446 9056 8748
Test location

View test location
Reason(s) for failure
  • Offside Rear Suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.A.3)
  • Offside Front Suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.A.3)
  • Direction indicator not working x2 Front (1.4.A.2c)
Advisory notice item(s)
  • Windscreen has damage to an area less than a 10mm circle within zone 'A' (8.3.1a)
  • Power steering pipe(s) or hose(s) has slight seepage (2.3.3b)
  • Ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt Steering box - drop arm (2.2.C.1c)
  • brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened Rear discs corroded (3.5.1i)
  • Chassis & Body corroded
  • Drivers floor excessively corroded


Retest

Date tested30 April 2018

PASS
Mileage107,391 miles
MOT test number1305 1072 1716
Test location

View test location
Expiry date29 April 2019
Advisory notice item(s)
  • Windscreen has damage to an area less than a 10mm circle within zone 'A' (8.3.1a)
  • Power steering component(s) has slight seepage from a component (2.3.3b)
  • Ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt Steering box drop arm (2.2.C.1c)
  • Rear brake discs corroded
  • Corrosion to body & chassis
  • Drivers floor excessively corroded

It's a 10p td5 as well, well documented failures, have a Google.

15p engines had design and engineering improvements, they're the later post 2002 I believe.

It may look tidy mate but it'll need more work to get it through next MOT id imagine. I'm always suspicious of work that's been done to get thru an MOT. Is it as good as if you had all the time in the world to make a good job of it..?
 
Advert says the previous owner has "done" the brakes but MOT history says they are nearly knacked. So how much of the advert can you believe? I would not bother going to see it at all.
 
Looking at getting my first 90. Any pointers where to look and what to look out for. Seems to be a minefield.

Ideal budget would be 5k but could spend more.

Use would be recreational and do a bit of towing for work.

Clearly not expecting a minter for that but would like something that is fundamentally sound.

You say you want something fundamentally sound, I don't think the one you are looking at is.:(
 
My advice is get one on a galv chassis. If you can’t afford it now then wait and save up. If you can’t afford a galv TD5, get a 300/200tdi with high mileage but on a galv. You’ll be doing yourself and your bank balance a huge favour. Don’t buy other people’s problems.
 
For what its worth, having had 2, one that was fairly good, but needed lots of fettling, and one (much more expensive) that was in great nick, save yourself the extra expense and hold out for a good one. I saved for a year and waited and waited to find a good one. paid far more than i wanted to but figured out it is better to cry once, than once a month!
 
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