Buying a Freelander, what to look out for ?

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The 1.8 petrol is presented like a new car, very tempted @ reduced £1650 , 1 months warranty
I cant fault it, seeing as the head gasket has been replaced (oil clear, coolant clear) and the cam belt changed shouldnt this car be alright for 30 000 ?
Very clean all round including the engine bay, no evidence of body work.

Or is the advice still walk away ?

The seller is a dealer working from home making a living buying from dealers and selling on.

I presume the major fault is a repair @ £500 that isnt immediate road side break down as long as the coolant is checked monthly or is it a total new engine after a road side break down.

My Dads on the way to the bank as I type this, so I could be back in 1000 miles pulling my hair out :doh:
 
DAKA said:
The 1.8 petrol is presented like a new car, very tempted @ reduced £1650 , 1 months warranty
I cant fault it, seeing as the head gasket has been replaced (oil clear, coolant clear) and the cam belt changed shouldnt this car be alright for 30 000 ?
Very clean all round including the engine bay, no evidence of body work.

Or is the advice still walk away ?

The seller is a dealer working from home making a living buying from dealers and selling on.

I presume the major fault is a repair @ £500 that isnt immediate road side break down as long as the coolant is checked monthly or is it a total new engine after a road side break down.

My Dads on the way to the bank as I type this, so I could be back in 1000 miles pulling my hair out :doh:
Click to expand...
He still bort it? :doh: :doh: :doh:
 
Look under the car, there should be a propshaft that runs from the front to the rear diff, it's about 5ft long in 2 sections and in the middle of it there should be a vcu and damper...either side of the vcu and damper there should be 2 support bearings attatched to the car holding everything up in the middle.
If it'not on the car, there is probabbly a fault with the vcu and or ird unit and or rear diff which will set you back more than the price of the car to put right and also means it is only running in 2 wheel drive.
 
mjrimmer said:
Look under the car, there should be a propshaft that runs from the front to the rear diff, it's about 5ft long in 2 sections and in the middle of it there should be a vcu and damper...either side of the vcu and damper there should be 2 support bearings attatched to the car holding everything up in the middle.
If it'not on the car, there is probabbly a fault with the vcu and or ird unit and or rear diff which will set you back more than the price of the car to put right and also means it is only running in 2 wheel drive.
Click to expand...


Oh, beginning to smell now, there was mention that ...........

" its permanent 4 wd but some owners disconnect the rear drive to save fuel economy".

Thanks for the tip , I'll go and check.
 
If it ain't got one don't touch it:eek:
People do take them off and run in 2 wheel drive especially through spring and summer but then put them back on for winter.
Mine is off at the moment as I was trying to track down an annoying knocking noise....found my problem so now it's going back on.
Buying one without one on and not knowing why it isn't there is just asking for more trouble than your already going to get yourself in if you do buy this one:doh:

Run Forest...Run!
 
Thanks again for all your advice, especially as I am an unknown newbie.
I have printed off all the concerns and advised Dad, I have printed off 4-8 pages on the HGF (yesterday at this time I had no idea what HGF stood for, now I know what it is, how it comes about and how to fix it with a modified HG, I understand the 1.8 in question has the new modified HG). This engine hopefully will run for 30 000 which will be twice what Dad needs it for.
If it dies within two years it will have cost less than 3 months depreciation on a new Range Rover so I can understand why Dad is happy to take the risk.
Mum's on her way now to check she is happy with it and I get the job to drive it home, I will take a tow rope as you guys have me wondering if I will make it 30 miles.......

I will report back to let you know what happens, I hope it is at least two years before I report back .........
at the end of the day its Dads choice not mine.

I would feel a little annoyed if I had spent so much time giving advice but please dont feel it is wasted

a) we know to keep an eye on the coolant water for oil
b) we know to keep an eye on the oil for water
c) we know we have to stop driving and check if it starts to run hot.
d) we know what to expect and how to repair when the HG goes.
e) you helped me knock the price down a good deal, even if the car has to be wrecked at least Dad will have lost less than if I hadnt have come here for advice , so thats a real result :)
 
Now read up on how to check the vcu.....and do it monthly....oh and apparantley don't get it wet or the doors will fall off:mooning:
 
Well so far, its a dream :)..............

I am very pleased with the drive and comfort and an unexpected rear wheel spin as I pulled out of the pub car park which confirms the rear axle is connected:clap2:

Very petty fault , some clown put reverse where 6th should be :eek:


At slow speeds round corners there is a sound like slopping water , the fuel tank is low , is it normal to hear slopping sounds ?
does the tank have baffles in it :confused:

Not been off road yet ..............cant wait :crazy_driver:
 
fyne1 said:
check tool box in boot is not full of water.
Click to expand...

Just an interim report, so far so good :)
Water noise stopped and tool box tightened.
which started another rattle, boot safe now locked which stopped it.
 
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