see this post ..
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/vcu-torque-test-results.109486/page-13#post-2141449
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buying a freelander td4 with 70K on clock
- Thread starter ponythegringo
- Start date
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see this post ..
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/vcu-torque-test-results.109486/page-13#post-2141449
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Ah thanks , i actually made it to page 7 on that thread and just decided it was an ongoing row that never ended. should've held out a bit longer for the actual results...
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Hi all, So all has gone well for 10k until a few weeks ago i got a slight whirring noise when depressing the clutch pedal which got slightly louder in the last week and then last night clutch went to the floor and came back twice ( with top of toe) in the space of ten minutes then went to the floor and stayed there. luckily i have AA cover so was able to get car recovered to town . AA guy said pedal was wet so my question is what do i need to order ? is it just a master cylinder i need or a clutch release bearing or the whole clutch assembly?
my other freelander had the slave and cylinder outside the gearbox but this one looks very different . Is the master and slave a " gearbox out" job?
my other freelander had the slave and cylinder outside the gearbox but this one looks very different . Is the master and slave a " gearbox out" job?
Gaj1612
Active Member
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I do believe it's a gearbox out job iirc. Personally I'd order up a clutch kit and changed the lot while the box is out. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me will tell you if it's is box out job for definite though.
Atb
Joe_H
Well-Known Member
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Hi GG,
I must say, that if no issues on lock with tightening, the VCU is absolutely fine. -
There is NO 'VALID' test you can do on the VCU apart from the tightness on lock test.
For the expert opinion (and not total hype) see the following. -
http://www.bellengineering.co.uk/5.html
Enjoy
Joe_H
Well-Known Member
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a bar and weights is an utterly meaningless test ! - - test if tightness on lock - the static test with a weight is simply wasting your time. IF you get tightness on lock - especially in reverse (due to the higher gearing) then the VCU is approaching end of life.
For expert advice and not hearsay -
http://www.bellengineering.co.uk/5.html
Again, the people in the know - not the oft' pedalled misleading and incorrect bs.
Give Bell engineering a call to confirm. They WILL tell you the real answer..
YOUR VCU is fine.
Enjoy it
Joe_H
Well-Known Member
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Here we go again Nodge
- it is a static test for a new VCU BY BELL for comparison to ensure QC - it is static - it has no relation to dynamic testing. It does not and cannot test air gap / fluid fill / hump mode onset or even rotation forces apart from a useless 90 degree arc. POINTLESS - as you have been told many times.Ring them - ask them - and please do not throw your dummy out of the pram again.
It really is simple - if there is tightness on lock the vcu is at the end of life. The OWUT is meaningless if no tightness on lock
And Please !! do not start your BELL conspiracy theories again -
- Jeeeeeeeeez ...Bell use this exact tests to show a customer there old VCU in comparison to a newly reconditioned unit. If the test is not a valid test, Bell wouldn't waste there time doing the test, but they do. So saying Bell don't use this test is incorrect, they do use so, it's valid. If it's good enough for Bell, it's good enough for anyone
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blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
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There is no need to go over this time and again. If you wish to link to threads where it has been fully discussed before so people can make up their own minds that's fine but there's no need to turn every vcu thread into a Bell vs OWUP.
To do so with an insulting manner either way from the off is extremely unhelpful and not appreciated.
To do so with an insulting manner either way from the off is extremely unhelpful and not appreciated.
Cheez - just do both - one wheel up test and reversing - if in doubt change the flippin' VCU - Joe - the Land Rover test is at one end of the spectrum - 75 revs per minute slippage with one end static - the OWUT is the other end of the spectrum (45 degrees at 8kg in about 10 seconds is about 0.75 rpm slippage.) Driving slowly backwards on full lock (according to my propshaft revcounters) is about 120 rpm/108rpm - a difference of 12rpm therefore much more akin to a OWUT than the Land Rover test - I would say not significantly different - but the OWUT is measurable whereas the reversing test is subjective - So get a life and step down off the soapbox and stop rubbishing other people's attempts to get a grip on the concept of a valid test
Edit - The slippage on a 45 degree 10 second OWUT is 2.14rpm at the prop - I forgot the diff and the pinion ratios - makes that even more similar to the reversing test as regards order of magnitude
Edit - The slippage on a 45 degree 10 second OWUT is 2.14rpm at the prop - I forgot the diff and the pinion ratios - makes that even more similar to the reversing test as regards order of magnitude
Here we go again Nodge
Ring them - ask them - and please do not throw your dummy out of the pram again.
It really is simple - if there is tightness on lock the vcu is at the end of life. The OWUT is meaningless if no tightness on lock
And Please !! do not start your BELL conspiracy theories again -
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Hippo
Lord Hippo
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I see you have been knocking our OWUT test and results across the forum for a while, and advising in your opinion it shouldn't be used. Instead you want us to reverse round a corner. There's no fair comparison on that either. An auto gearbox on tickover will reverse differently to a manual on tickover with or without slipping the clutch. The auto will keep pushing and won't stall like a manual. Trying to keep the speed the same for reference purposes is near impossible to judge, not to mention the fact that a petrol has different torque output values at slow speeds to a diesel and therefore powers the Freelander differently. Judging if it's a little bit stiff or too stiff? How are you going to put that into words which equates to a physical comparison the reader can use to judge their vcu stiffness? When pushing for the reverse test you need to advise peeps that they're probably activating their vcu anyway so it will feel tight anyway due to the differing speeds of the props when the wheels are on a tight turn. In no way does that test for a stiff vcu, it will be stiff anyway. When quoting snippets from the web you should also quote posts from years ago where Austin tells people to perform the OWUT as it's a good test, on this ere forum.a bar and weights is an utterly meaningless test ! - - test if tightness on lock - the static test with a weight is simply wasting your time. IF you get tightness on lock - especially in reverse (due to the higher gearing) then the VCU is approaching end of life.
For expert advice and not hearsay -
http://www.bellengineering.co.uk/5.html
Again, the people in the know - not the oft' pedalled misleading and incorrect bs.
Give Bell engineering a call to confirm. They WILL tell you the real answer..
YOUR VCU is fine.
Enjoy it
It never amazes me just how many people will go to such great lengths to try to stop people form performing the OWUT. Annoyed I is. I'm not going to argue about this. Leave peeps to judge for themselves.
edit: quoted wrong post
props
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Diesel Do
Well-Known Member
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Can't be bothered to read all of this, but, I've spoken to Austen on a few occasions. Could someone explain to me how you can post your vcu to him to bench test it to decide what state it's in? Then rubbish the very same bench testing he offers as a service. I for one am sick of listening to this. It's been done to death.
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Has another thread spilled over into this one? I just wanted some info on my clutch problem but the vcu test discussion has leaked in somehow.
It sounds like the clutch hydraulics have failed.
A noise when pressing the clutch would suggest a slave/ release bearing fault. Fluid loss at the pedal would suggest a master cylinder fault.
If the slave has failed, the box must be removed, assuming it's a TD4.
If you are having the box removed to repair the slave, you might as well have a new clutch fitted at the same time.
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thanks a lot for that , I wanted to buy from paddock spares but they only have britpart clutch for td4 and i was really looking for LUk or some other "better" make .Should i shop for clutch plate and cover plus master and slave plus flywheel , release bearing ? It's a bit confusing doing the rounds on the websites , any particular online crowd that i could purchaase everything at once without getting robbed? What make of clutch is best?
Luk clutch is the way to go.
You will need the kit. You can test the DMF with the box off. There's no guarantee that it's reached the end of its working life.
I would change the master at the same time as the concentric tbh. I hate doing jobs twice, so change everything at once.
You will need the kit. You can test the DMF with the box off. There's no guarantee that it's reached the end of its working life.
I would change the master at the same time as the concentric tbh. I hate doing jobs twice, so change everything at once.
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Thanks Nodge, sorry for my ignorance but what is a concentric?
Euro car parts will do the clutch kit. http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/L...42cddcb62485b231556270558b3236d8e212a6&000069You just need to add the master cylinder to complete the replacement. The DMF would be extra though, but isn't necessarily needed
