Burnt out - rebuild

dag019 said:

n the mean time I am trying to fit the lower dash does anyone know the size of the bolts in the that hold the top edge n place? The bulkhead I have is filled with paint and zinc plate so need to retap them and order replacement b

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To answer my own question these are in fact m5. However in trying to retap them the rivnut broke loose and started spinning so i have replaced them with m6 stainless rivnuts as that is what I had to hand. I have now fitted the lower dash after sound proofing the bulkhead. The next job will be to begin connecting up the dash switches and put in the binnacle mounts.




I have begun to connect up the engine side of the loom after feeding it all though conduit to add some additional protection. I have routed it in the same fashion as the pictures above form border and have ordered a loom cover from blanchards (thank you @miktdish) and some nylon pclips. Once these have arrived I will be able to secure the loom correctly and refit the passenger wing (the drivers wing will wait until I have finished resealing my spare steering box and swapped it over). The only think I am still unsure of with the engine bay connectors is if I need to do anything with the dim dip resistor plug as I am fitting a dim dip bypass relay, and what to do with the brown and red glow plug wire that does not have a connector on it (it appears form my research to be a non turbo glow plug wire (link)?)



Now I have the lower dash in I can begin building the the additional wiring looms for the isolator solenoids, additional lighting and the electric fan. I have a blue sea fuse box (link) for this which will go in the battery compartments, This fuse box will be supplied form the isolated side of the solenoid so will also be off when the isolator solenoid is disconnected. I also have a pair of relay boxes which will mount next to it and this should allow all additional circuits to be protected, and relay supplied reducing the load on the switch gear.

Having now done the engine bay wiring the only think I am still unsure of with the engine bay connectors is if I need to do anything with the dim dip resistor plug as I am fitting a dim dip bypass relay, and what to do with the brown and red glow plug wire that does not have a connector on it (it appears form my research to be a non turbo glow plug wire (link)?)

However this mean I have now moved onto the interior wiring and have the same list of questions for the internal wiring loom connectors! If you have the knowledge please confirm if the below is correct:



What are the green purple and white that are capped here for. I assume I can just ignore them s they are happily sealed off.



Similarly this white and yellow/brown connector is sealed off



Unsure what this econoseal connector is for, black, green/yellow, green/white

EDIT: Is this for the fan blower switch?



This is one of the switches by your right knee but I do not know which one and what is is for

EDIT: Is this for the fog light switch?



This is also one of the switches by your right knee but I do not know which one and what is is for

EDIT: Is this for the heated rear screen switch?



This is also in the same position as the two above for the switches by your right knee but I do not know if it is for one of these switches or not as has a different connector on it.

EDIT: Is this for the hazard switch?



These two spades (black, red/black) are also in the same position as the three above for the switches by your right knee but I do not know what they are for

EDIT: Is this for the hazard switch warning light?



These go to the ignition switch I just need to work out which spade goes to which terminal



These are the indicator and wiper stalk cables, I need to remove and fit the plastic housings off the old loom which means I need to work out where each pin goes and take some carful notes as I remove them!



This looks to be the fog light relay and connects into the box pictured. Annoyingly although this is on my donor loom the clips have broken off the back of it so there is no way to mount it securely and it may need to be replaced!



This is the dim dip relay as I have swapped the correct plug on to it from my old loom and it will be fitted with a dim dip bypass relay.



Is this one the headlight switch?



These are the dash warning light panel connectors



I believe this is the connector for the clock loom which I have ordered (link)



I believe this is the connector for the instrument panel wiring harness which I have ordered (link)



This one is for the roof light and runs up the door pillar

As I am now working on the dash wiring I though it was as good a time as any to make myself a dim dip bypass relay. i know you can buy them but it is an easy process to make them and this way it is free!

I followed the method written up here: link which I have done before when I was having healight switch issues a couple of years ago.

Typicalls on openeing up the dim dip relay there was evidance of some severe overheating and the circuit board crunmbles away as I removed the switch and coil:



Having removed the extra pins it is just a case of soldering on a bypass wire to link the two remaining pins together. Although I did this on the circuit boar due to the overheating damage I also added an additional wire directly between the two pins before refitting the cover.



Continuity bench tested and it is all working, it doe snot carry much current so should be fine moving forwards.

I will say before anyone points out my poor soldering that i am struggling with new solder I have purchased. Although it is proper lead solder it does not melt nicely and flow very well. I do not know if my soldering iron is not quite hot enough (not had that issue before) but I am going to purchase a little blow torch and see if it gives better results. If it does not then I am blaming the Chinese solder!

I've had that problem with soldering too. Sometimes it behaves more like butter, and you have to smear it on with the tip of the soldering iron, which isn't exactly satisfactory. It's made worse when working outside in cold weather. I'm sure you do this anyway, but filing the tip of the soldering iron down to bright metal helps. Mine's got a detachable tip, so taking it out and filing the oxide off where it contacts the heating device helps a little too. Or I suppose I could just buy a decent soldering iron.

Brown said:

I've had that problem with soldering too. Sometimes it behaves more like butter, and you have to smear it on with the tip of the soldering iron, which isn't exactly satisfactory. It's made worse when working outside in cold weather. I'm sure you do this anyway, but filing the tip of the soldering iron down to bright metal helps. Mine's got a detachable tip, so taking it out and filing the oxide off where it contacts the heating device helps a little too. Or I suppose I could just buy a decent soldering iron.

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I assumed it was due to not enough heat made worse by the current temperature outside hence my thought about buying a small blowtorch. I do regularly tidy the tip on my soldering iron and it is a nice old one that used to be my dads so is a heavy high rated one rather than the cheap modern ones you can get.

dag019 said:

I assumed it was due to not enough heat made worse by the current temperature outside hence my thought about buying a small blowtorch. I do regularly tidy the tip on my soldering iron and it is a nice old one that used to be my dads so is a heavy high rated one rather than the cheap modern ones you can get.

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I use a gas solder iron. Refillable & got it from maplins when they were around.
On a cold day just turn up the gas/heat & off you go. Like this set up as it portable.
Also once solder is none the heat is good enough to use in heat shrink tube

All the wiring identification is on the wiring diagram for the model year so on.
I am soon going to be removing wiring, once cab is apart, I usually check diagram as it comes apart just to be sure what I have.

Seaswood said:

All the wiring identification is on the wiring diagram for the model year so on.
I am soon going to be removing wiring, once cab is apart, I usually check diagram as it comes apart just to be sure what I have.

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That was part of my issue is I did not have anything to reference against as the fire destroyed everything and my donor bulkhead has been cut about so much it is virtually useless. I think I have worked it all out now. Just need to start adding things back in and connecting it up. Now the different coloured wire I ordered has arrived after the Royal Mail strikes I can start running that through the bulkhead to build the additional loom for extras like lights, winch, etc.

I am connecting things up onside the dash for the new wiring loom.

I successfully swapped over the plastic plug housings from the old loom for the indicator and wiper switch as the new loom did not come with these so they are now connected.



Annoyingly having swapped the dim dip relay plug over so it has the clips to slide onto the relay holders the cabling is not actually long enough to reach the holders down in the dash behind the switch panel (bottom right of pic by the top of the relay). This means I will swap to plug back as the one supplied with the loom had a mounting bracket and I will use some rivnuts in the hole seen to the right to mount the relay and I will drill and rivnut a hole next to it for the fog light relay.



I have followed this diagram for the ignition switch but I am unsure if I have plugged it in correctly.



I have four wires (new 300tdi main wiring loom), thick white, a thin white, a brown and a thin orange/white but not sure I have connected up correctly. My starter solenoid wire on the engine bay side of the bulkhead loom is brown/red! I currently have it connected as follows

1. Thin white
2. brown
3. thick white
4. blank
5. white/orange

Is this correct? I currently have no power as have not finished connecting the engine bay fuse box so cannot run power to test!

Forget all the other wires, just make sure you get those correct, otherwise!!!
I do lots of continuity tests if I am unsure.
But those heavy wires get them in right socket.

Seaswood said:

Forget all the other wires, just make sure you get those correct, otherwise!!!
I do lots of continuity tests if I am unsure.
But those heavy wires get them in right socket.

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I know the brown is correct. It is the two white ones that are annoying. By all accounts one of them should be white and red. Which I am assuming is the smaller one. I will continuity test the starter solenoid tomorrow to hopefully confirm.

Tomorrow I will remove the heater box then I will start the opposite process, identifying those wires before I pull connectors.

Seaswood said:

Tomorrow I will remove the heater box then I will start the opposite process, identifying those wires before I pull connectors.

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if it helps you I have unwittingly created a reference for most of the loom connectors here as I have updated my posts as I have discovered what connectors are for!

I am still waiting for delivery of the final parts to be able to build the additional looms now bloody mail strikes are really delaying my progress!

This is a 1984 PU farm truck so I am interested to see how intact the wiring is?
When I get the heater box off or figure what fasteners I missed.

assume you are buying wire of correct colors & fastners.

Does anyone have kicking around in the shed a defender rear wiper switch (pic below)?
I used to have half a dozen of them, mostly still fitted to the oval centre panels, but now cant find any in my parts boxes. I must have slowly given them away to people who needed them and now I don't have any spares! I cannot see either the switch or the whole panel on either ebay or facebook market place, there used to be loads of them and you struggled to give them away (that's how I ended up with so many!). The price of a new switch is about £100 and that does not include the plastic knob which is an extra £25!
I will begrudgingly buy a new one if that is what it comes to as I need the switch but thought it was worth asking here first. Happy to pay (and pay postage if you are not local), I am not expecting a handout, but there just doesn't seem to be any available S/H.

Separate thread here: link

Having posted a wanted ad in the for sale section for a defender rear wiper switch I am now a little confused having done some more research.

I was originally searching for part number PRC4449 which is very expensive and is priced new at about £100 and that does not include the plastic knob which is an extra £25. I also cannot find any second hand. While searching for one I have come across part number 579006 which appears to be a series 3 single speed wash wipe switch. this is much cheaper and is priced new at about £45 also not including the plastic knob. Both switches appear to be a lucas single speed rotary wash wipe switch.

Is there any difference between the these part numbers anyone is aware of?

dag019 said:

I am connecting things up onside the dash for the new wiring loom.

I successfully swapped over the plastic plug housings from the old loom for the indicator and wiper switch as the new loom did not come with these so they are now connected.

View attachment 280035

Annoyingly having swapped the dim dip relay plug over so it has the clips to slide onto the relay holders the cabling is not actually long enough to reach the holders down in the dash behind the switch panel (bottom right of pic by the top of the relay). This means I will swap to plug back as the one supplied with the loom had a mounting bracket and I will use some rivnuts in the hole seen to the right to mount the relay and I will drill and rivnut a hole next to it for the fog light relay.

View attachment 280038

I have followed this diagram for the ignition switch but I am unsure if I have plugged it in correctly.

View attachment 280033

I have four wires (new 300tdi main wiring loom), thick white, a thin white, a brown and a thin orange/white but not sure I have connected up correctly. My starter solenoid wire on the engine bay side of the bulkhead loom is brown/red! I currently have it connected as follows

1. Thin white
2. brown
3. thick white
4. blank
5. white/orange

Is this correct? I currently have no power as have not finished connecting the engine bay fuse box so cannot run power to test!

View attachment 280034

Click to expand...

Well in trying to continuity test the two white wires today I did discover that the thin white wire does have a very thin and already beginning to rub off red trace down it so I am happy for now that the ignition is correctly connected.

I think if you can download and print a copy of the wiring diagram and colour code (part of the workshop manual) it will make things much easier for you. The colours used are part of a british standard - e.g. red with a yellow trace should be the wire(s) from the fog light to the fog light switch, then blue with a purple trace from the switch to the fusebox.

zeaphod said:

I think if you can download and print a copy of the wiring diagram and colour code (part of the workshop manual) it will make things much easier for you. The colours used are part of a british standard - e.g. red with a yellow trace should be the wire(s) from the fog light to the fog light switch, then blue with a purple trace from the switch to the fusebox.

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I am happy with most of the British standard colours but I am used to series wiring which is far more basic than this and some parts have not matched the standard colours I was expecting - e.g. starter solenoid: on engine loom is white/red as expected, on the main loom is brown/red and without a connector, and on the ignition switch is white/red but the red trace is so thin and faint that it is very difficult to see (as above post). I have been using the LR workshop guide (link) where you can look up connectors by wiring colour which has been far more use than trying to battle through a wiring diagram and trace things through because the diagram does not give an accurate representation of where things are in relation to each other, just the path the electricity takes.
I think I am there with the main wiring now, I know what all the connectors are for and where they should go, I have nearly built my additional looms (no thanks to royalmail delays on parts orders), and should shortly be finished playing sparky and get back to the good mechanical things.

I need to drill out my steering column shroud to accept the early style fog light switch that goes opposite the headlight switch. Does anyone know if this is in exactly the same place (mirror image) of the headlight switch before I drill a hole in the wrong place?

Also what is this hole for and what should either be fitted there or go there to prevent it being a hole. I do not remember there being a hole there on my old one pre fire, but that doesn't mean there wasn't as it is fairly well hidden under the dash and out of view.