Bumper removal and spotlight question

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D

drfoster

Well-Known Member
Posts
259
Location
Wolverhampton
Hi there,

just bought a secondhand A bar for the front bumper but just wondering how the bumper currently fixes before i launch into it. do the four bolts bolt down through the chassis to captive nuts? are these prone to breaking when force is applied? i've doused them in Bulldog BDX so hopefully that will help penetrate the threads.

Also what's the score regarding front spotlight legality. Can A-bar ones be combined into the high beam circuit or do they need to be independently switchable for off-road only. i know when i use to put spots on cars we could just add them to the high beam but not sure if rules have changed.

cheers in advance

Steve
 
Yes, 2 bolts on either chassis leg.
Can't remember them ever being captive nuts, but my Landie's front bumper wasn't OEM when I bought her.
That will answer your question, If they are captive. :p
Lights can be used as additional full beam.
 
As for the extra lights, dont just connect to the high beam circuit, you will likely overload it and burn some fragile wiring.
They need their own supply and best through a relay.
Which can be switched with the high beam circuit or switch (dont know the rules).

J
 
marjon said:
As for the extra lights, dont just connect to the high beam circuit, you will likely overload it and burn some fragile wiring.
They need their own supply and best through a relay.
Which can be switched with the high beam circuit or switch (dont know the rules).

J
Click to expand...
yeah was planning to have a switched relay for them as well.
 
Bumper held on with captive nuts and if they've been on for a while / weren't greased before fitting they may be hard to get off as if seized solid the captive nuts may break free from spring plate and spin
I'd advise getting a set of stainless bolts and new captive nuts before attempting it

(Captive nuts fit onto bumper and can be hard to line up with bolts, a long thin punch or similar from top often helps)
 
marjon said:
As for the extra lights, dont just connect to the high beam circuit, you will likely overload it and burn some fragile wiring.
They need their own supply and best through a relay.
Which can be switched with the high beam circuit or switch (dont know the rules).

J
Click to expand...

^^ this one. Make sure the lights are fed from a relay with a fused power supply. I wire my relay up to a three way switch so I have the option of: on/off/on-with-mainbeam. But I know lots of people just use a two way switch and have off/on-with-mainbeam. I don’t know of the legality but I would put a switch in so you have the option of turning them off. There have been a few time not having them on has been beneficial. Usually in heavy fog.
Also don’t know if you have lights yet but I would advocate good quality LED as they have a much lower power draw requiring a smaller fuse than halogen and putting less strain on battery and alternator (you can also fit more of them for higher light output and still have the above benefits). But I am fairly paranoid having had an electrical start engine fire requiring a rebuild last year. I will also re-emphasis the good quality LED, which are expensive. Not the cheap Chinese eBay/amazon specials that are out there.
 
Definitely get some new bolts and captive plates before you remove the old ones. They are likely to be seized. Two of mine sheared off! And be prepared to treat the front chassis legs as the bumper hides the rust!
 
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