satchmolips
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planning to do this in the summer.... are there any good "how to's" and or lists of things I may need (other than time, money and patience)
Bulkhead swap 110
- Thread starter satchmolips
- Start date
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Pappasmurf
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Flossie
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New outrigger to 'A' post bolts and nuts.
New seals for top and bottom of windscreen frame, pedal box and heater box gaskets.
New 'A' post hinge clips and screws, new floor plate screws, spire nuts.
New plastic inserts(around gearbox covers.
Be prepared to make some new brake pipes.
Lots of small labelled tubs for everything and plenty of photos.
2 person job to lift on and off, not overly heavy depends on how much stuff you decide to remove off it before you lift it out. The steering column, heater, pedal box, servo add quite a bit.
I left the loom in and immediately transferred it to the new bulkhead when they were side by side, label every connection, it's not obvious where some connectors go.
Remove the thin steel plate on the top of the lower dash where the lower heater vents are, this will be full of dirt and or rust, clean it up and free off the linkage inside, replace the Bowden cable if it's iffy, replace the foam under the long tin plate too, I used closed cell camping mat. Strip and clean, free off the heater box and refoam that too, you want no air leaks to outside and good sealing on the flaps too.
New bulkhead vent flap seals.
Soundproofing would be easier before fitting the bulkhead.
Most importantly- don't get depressed when the doors no longer fit
New seals for top and bottom of windscreen frame, pedal box and heater box gaskets.
New 'A' post hinge clips and screws, new floor plate screws, spire nuts.
New plastic inserts(around gearbox covers.
Be prepared to make some new brake pipes.
Lots of small labelled tubs for everything and plenty of photos.
2 person job to lift on and off, not overly heavy depends on how much stuff you decide to remove off it before you lift it out. The steering column, heater, pedal box, servo add quite a bit.
I left the loom in and immediately transferred it to the new bulkhead when they were side by side, label every connection, it's not obvious where some connectors go.
Remove the thin steel plate on the top of the lower dash where the lower heater vents are, this will be full of dirt and or rust, clean it up and free off the linkage inside, replace the Bowden cable if it's iffy, replace the foam under the long tin plate too, I used closed cell camping mat. Strip and clean, free off the heater box and refoam that too, you want no air leaks to outside and good sealing on the flaps too.
New bulkhead vent flap seals.
Soundproofing would be easier before fitting the bulkhead.
Most importantly- don't get depressed when the doors no longer fit
Hicap phill
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- Wiltshire
Flossie
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- Shropshire
I fitted the foam type first but they leaked, fitted the rubber series type after that and they've been fine.
Hicap phill
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- Wiltshire
Foam type fit the flap, rubber type fit the bulkhead.
i am also planning on doing this job in the near future. But finding the time this year is going to be a challenge!
Hicap phill
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- Wiltshire
It’s a 1985. Last time I tried to get the rubber ones they said they don’t make them.
But if series are the same I will go for them.
They are only there for visual appearance as the flaps don’t open
But if series are the same I will go for them.
They are only there for visual appearance as the flaps don’t open
Litch
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- Oxfordshire
Here are a few photos of when I did mine back in 2013 (all single-handed including the bulkhead lifting on / off).
Take your time, take photographs at every stage, put everything into bags / boxes (I prefer ice-cream tubs) and make sure you label EVERYTHING (when you come back to it a couple of weeks later you may not remember what it is or where it goes!).
While it is apart consider replacing anything that is easy to access, can make life a lot easier in the future. Reassemble with new fixings (I always use SS and have never regretted it) and make sure nothing goes together dry, use the correct grease and you will be slapping yourself on the back in years to come! Also I always use copious amounts of Waxoyl, I put the stuff in & on everything and it always does the job.
Consider galvanising, cost me about £100 inc VAT for the bulkhead and several other parts and that included collection / delivery, acid dip etc.
Start of the strip-down.
Dashboard coming out.
Bulkhead off and sent for galvanising, this gave me a couple of weeks to get stuck into some other little jobs
Bulkhead back and looking good.
Prepped and lifted into place.
Starting to fit major parts.
Under-bonnet coming along nicely.
Perfect time to fit Raptor centre console & aux fusebox.
Finished article 6-years on, un-painted bulkhead does not look out of place.
Interior. Note no carpets or sound deadening, ensures no moisture traps and allows easy hosing out.
Take your time, take photographs at every stage, put everything into bags / boxes (I prefer ice-cream tubs) and make sure you label EVERYTHING (when you come back to it a couple of weeks later you may not remember what it is or where it goes!).
While it is apart consider replacing anything that is easy to access, can make life a lot easier in the future. Reassemble with new fixings (I always use SS and have never regretted it) and make sure nothing goes together dry, use the correct grease and you will be slapping yourself on the back in years to come! Also I always use copious amounts of Waxoyl, I put the stuff in & on everything and it always does the job.
Consider galvanising, cost me about £100 inc VAT for the bulkhead and several other parts and that included collection / delivery, acid dip etc.
Start of the strip-down.
Dashboard coming out.
Bulkhead off and sent for galvanising, this gave me a couple of weeks to get stuck into some other little jobs
Bulkhead back and looking good.
Prepped and lifted into place.
Starting to fit major parts.
Under-bonnet coming along nicely.
Perfect time to fit Raptor centre console & aux fusebox.
Finished article 6-years on, un-painted bulkhead does not look out of place.
Interior. Note no carpets or sound deadening, ensures no moisture traps and allows easy hosing out.
Flossie
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Yeah, as said , bulkhead. Glue them on then clamp the flaps shut overnight. I said series ones but I don't know if they are series ones or even if series ones fit?
Too long ago for me to remember tbh.
Litch
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- Oxfordshire
I used the foam-rubber ones stuck to the flap for many years, seemed to work ok but when I did the bulkhead rebuild (above) I went back to rubber ones.
Biggest problem is that when they are new it can be difficult to close them fully and make a good seal, this usually happens over time.
Biggest problem is that when they are new it can be difficult to close them fully and make a good seal, this usually happens over time.
