Building the dream 110

Hello all

I haven't posted much in a while but I'm back!

So I have always wanted an immaculate 110 csw as a family weekend do anything type Vehicle that will stay with me forever (I have a 110 HCPU 300TDI for the heavy work) but you are looking at over 20k for an okay example now which got me thinking I could probably build a new one to my exact spec for not much more that will last longer, but I could do with a few pointers from you knowledgeable folk.



So I'm planning to buy a cheap 110 and probably use as little as possible from that vehicle and build my own version with the below goodies



New galvanized chassis and bulk head

New doors

Mercedes OM606 with DPUK parts to achieve 300hp

All upgraded drivetrain with Ashcroft ATB's and heavy duty shafts



So I would like to know the following:

If anyone has had any experience with converting to the om606 and which set up is best, I.e if it's easier to convert a 200tdi to an om606 I will buy a 200tdi chassis.

What is the difference between the 1983-1989 110 chassis and the 1990 defender chassis? Are the parts interchangable?

Would it be an issue with the v5 if I'm basically changing everything on the car (I would rather an older example due to being tax exempt)



And finally if you have any other input please let me know, especially if there are other needed parts to add to the shopping list

On the v5 tax exemption issue that is calculated on a point basis. If you alter the chassis you loose the most points and basically have to keep everything else standard. Someone with more knowledge will be along shortly but I think if you change the engine and then alter the chassis to fit the engine you will loose too many points and end up with problems.

Everything else is easily achievable and you could build a virtually new vehicle form parts currently available.

dag019 said:

On the v5 tax exemption issue that is calculated on a point basis. If you alter the chassis you loose the most points and basically have to keep everything else standard. Someone with more knowledge will be along shortly but I think if you change the engine and then alter the chassis to fit the engine you will loose too many points and end up with problems.

Everything else is easily achievable and you could build a virtually new vehicle form parts currently available.

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Oh I haven't heard of this point based system, when I declared my series 3 as classic there were no checks.

If your series 3 is a standard truck or perhaps just an engine change it would not be a problem.
If say it was modified to be on coils with non standard transmission then that would be another matter and even if approved historic/classic on the paperwork a check say after an accident would likely bite one in the ass.

@dag019 Knows best on this one but a 110 hardtop already on a galvanized chassis may be a good starting point.

tottot said:

@dag019 Knows best on this one but a 110 hardtop already on a galvanized chassis may be a good starting point.

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I am in the process of rebuilding a station wagon body to fit to my hardtop that is on a glav chassis. That option would get you a cheaper vehicle to base things off but there are very few 110 around for sale that are on a galv chassis. You would also need a station wagon rear body which are almost as much as a full vehicle to buy on their own.

The issue for me is the chassis loss required to change the engine is likely to mean it doesn’t qualify to keep its iD. You would be better off with either another 300tdi or a chipped td5 if you want more power. As that way there are no chassis changes.

I would also be cautious of claiming to be able to build one for less than you can buy one. Usually this is not the case and when you rebuild a vehicle, galv chassis etc the vehicle is worth less than the sum of its parts let alone when you factor labour into the equation.

That's for the input dag019
I don't think I made myself to clear, I'm not looking to change the chassis for one that's different to the purchased v5, I'm looking to buy a vehicle and buy a galvanized chassis that matches that vehicle (i.e buying a 2.5 NA Landy and fitting the same chassis but a new Richards galvanized one)

As for the engine I do really like my 300tdi but I only use this vehicle for driving into the woods to collect firewood, iwant something that's a little more interesting and able to cruise at 70 up steep hills and my wife likes the drive.

If I buy a nice csw for say 20-25k it will still need me to spend 10k on an engine conversion/ transmission rebuild/brake overhaul as all these components will be 20+ years old and over 100k miles, I know this sounds a little silly and the landys lend themselves to an "if it ain't broke don't fix it" attitude but I'm wanting to create something better than they left the factory.

Highpeakdefender said:

That's for the input dag019
I don't think I made myself to clear, I'm not looking to change the chassis for one that's different to the purchased v5, I'm looking to buy a vehicle and buy a galvanized chassis that matches that vehicle (i.e buying a 2.5 NA Landy and fitting the same chassis but a new Richards galvanized one)

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That may be the case but you won’t be able to convert the engine without modifying the engine mounts on the chassis. Therefore altering the chassis and making it different from the v5. Unless you can make up some very intricate engine mounts to adapt the engine to use the existing chassis mounts similar to what is available for dropping a 300tdi into an earlier model. But any chassis modifications are reportable and will loose points toward keeping the vehicle Id and tax/mot exemption.

dag019 said:

That may be the case but you won’t be able to convert the engine without modifying the engine mounts on the chassis. Therefore altering the chassis and making it different from the v5. Unless you can make up some very intricate engine mounts to adapt the engine to use the existing chassis mounts similar to what is available for dropping a 300tdi into an earlier model. But any chassis modifications are reportable and will loose points toward keeping the vehicle Id and tax/mot exemption.

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Nice to know, I am an engineer and do like to play around with the Tig welder so I'm sure I could make some brackets to suite.

Highpeakdefender said:

Nice to know, I am an engineer and do like to play around with the Tig welder so I'm sure I could make some brackets to suite.

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There are regulations regarding chassis changes etc.
if you change the engine to a non LR type you loose points. You need a certain amount,axles,gearbox,engine are the points.
As your changing engine are you changing the gear box?

You can not weld new brackets to the chassis either but you can plate & bolt things.

Now if I was you I would keep standard landy & just change body type, no inspection needed.

Search IVA

Hicap phill said:

There are regulations regarding chassis changes etc.
if you change the engine to a non LR type you loose points. You need a certain amount,axles,gearbox,engine are the points.
As your changing engine are you changing the gear box?

You can not weld new brackets to the chassis either but you can plate & bolt things.

Now if I was you I would keep standard landy & just change body type, no inspection needed.

Search IVA

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Thanks phill, I have found the below brackets to fit an om606 without any chassis modifications if I do go down this route,
As for changing the body, the vehicle I'm interested in is a 1985 van and the log book just states it's a 110 4c reg d which I believe is "4 cylinder regular diesel" and the number of seats section is blank, this would leave me to Believe the vehicle can be any body type ( like a 5 door utility) without any V5 changes

I have just rebuilt my 300 TDi CSW body entirly and I would say your better off finding a good body/starting point and paying or you will hit 30k+ if your doing it poperly with Genuine or better aftermarket parts eg. Uproar/Exmore Trim/galvanised everything.

You need to becareful with the cars ID or you will end up on Q plates - I have a Richards Chassis and think they are better/stronger but unless you buy marshlands OEM and get it stamped you will loose the chassis ID and technically heritage points as technically its then a modified chassis but could be a grey area/argued long as the rest of the car can marry up to being original. if you then change the Engine you will loose that ID - the VIN plate if moved to new bulkhead may then not be enough to prove vehicals ID on its own as often you need 2/3 of the major compenets Chassis/Bulkhead/Engine/Gearbox to cross check to ensure its not a "cut/shut" type car if DVLA want to check it and have issues or it raises questions - Q Plate.

the Tax and Mot are treated differently and is 2 seperate registrations.

for MOT side is more strict if you change the engine it wont be a classic/heritage car as it's a change to the no of cylinders. if you put in a similar 4 cylinders you can have wiggle room if spares not availble but its like for like for DVLA long as its a land rover engine dont care too much but the OM606 they will care.

Also wont be if you end up on Q plates.

the tax exception is points as below/similar to MOT but less strict apperently.

points below:



but if your getting a true 300TDI your further away from heritage anyway so for 13 years you may not really care.

Side note - if you get anything rebuilt make sure the orginal ID isnt replaced/altered - think ashcrofts do if its an exchanged unit.

I wouldnt use HD flanges, If everything from wheel back is HD it will find a weakpoint somewhere in your transmission/diff. i would do HD drivetrain parts then keem OEM flanges/shafts keep the weakpoint on the outside easy/cheap to replace. unless your doing comp stuff.

shaynecm said:

I have just rebuilt my 300 TDi CSW body entirly and I would say your better off finding a good body/starting point and paying or you will hit 30k+ if your doing it poperly with Genuine or better aftermarket parts eg. Uproar/Exmore Trim/galvanised everything.

You need to becareful with the cars ID or you will end up on Q plates - I have a Richards Chassis and think they are better/stronger but unless you buy marshlands OEM and get it stamped you will loose the chassis ID and technically heritage points as technically its then a modified chassis but could be a grey area/argued long as the rest of the car can marry up to being original. if you then change the Engine you will loose that ID - the VIN plate if moved to new bulkhead may then not be enough to prove vehicals ID on its own as often you need 2/3 of the major compenets Chassis/Bulkhead/Engine/Gearbox to cross check to ensure its not a "cut/shut" type car if DVLA want to check it and have issues or it raises questions - Q Plate.

the Tax and Mot are treated differently and is 2 seperate registrations.

for MOT side is more strict if you change the engine it wont be a classic/heritage car as it's a change to the no of cylinders. if you put in a similar 4 cylinders you can have wiggle room if spares not availble but its like for like for DVLA long as its a land rover engine dont care too much but the OM606 they will care.

Also wont be if you end up on Q plates.

the tax exception is points as below/similar to MOT but less strict apperently.

points below:

Part	Points
Chassis, monocoque bodyshell (body and chassis as one unit) or frame - original or new and unmodified (direct from manufacturer)	5
Suspension (front and back) - original	2
Axles (both) - original	2
Transmission - original	2
Steering assembly - original	2
Engine - original	1

but if your getting a true 300TDI your further away from heritage anyway so for 13 years you may not really care.

Side note - if you get anything rebuilt make sure the orginal ID isnt replaced/altered - think ashcrofts do if its an exchanged unit.

I wouldnt use HD flanges, If everything from wheel back is HD it will find a weakpoint somewhere in your transmission/diff. i would do HD drivetrain parts then keem OEM flanges/shafts keep the weakpoint on the outside easy/cheap to replace. unless your doing comp stuff.

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Thank you for the very indepth knowledge! I actually live 1 mile from marshlands and plan to use one of these chassis, I have a 1985 12j with less than 10k miles (with MOT to prove) it sounds like I might be best going for a 200tdi instead.

I completely agree with what you say about the flanges, far to easy/cheap to replace to risk breaking anything else

Would anyone be able to help me with the paint colour of this Landy? It's exactly what I'm after but colours are not my strong point

Not much of a pic but I would say blue. Possibly Windjamer.

tottot said:

Not much of a pic but I would say blue. Possibly Windjamer.

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Think this chap is correct in that it’s windjammer or Arles blue. I was going to paint my disco in it

might be Stratos Blue as its 1984 - found a toy colour match.