L322 Bugger- no drive!

Merloch91 · Apr 10, 2021

Mark Piercy said:
Get some new bolts. They are a 16mm thread with a 17mm shoulder and are a bastid to shift and keep usable. The shoulder is an interference fit and a git when Rusty......

That'd be why it won't come out with an impact or my biggest hammer then

It won't spin at all so my thought is to drill it out at the point where I find myself needing the hub off.
It's a to do job once I get a proper drive as I hate jacking it on my current mess

need to get it on ramps today after it slipped off the jack when lowering it yesterday post driveshaft reinstall

Merloch91 · May 4, 2021

Well I delayed running it until a new hub nut came, and then the weather made me ignore it until last week. Been running it the last couple of days and besides the squeeling after being parked up (I bought replacement pads/disks as I saw they were a bit worse for wear) it's been alright. I might just be being paranoid but I seem to be getting a bit of a screeching sound when I'm accelerating- not sure if it's the brakes or that drive shaft but it's bloody annoying

.
Control wise it's spot on just feels sluggish when accelerating and the noise when accelerating- only seems to do it with my foot down and most noticeable on set off so my guess (or hope) is it's just the pad that was seized needs replacing... Might put my towing gear in the car just in case

Merloch91 · May 5, 2021

Grease coming out of the hub

bugger yet again

tomcat59alan · May 5, 2021

Merloch91 said:
Grease coming out of the hub bugger yet again

Did you put a new CV boot on ?there was a big lump missing in your photo in post #34.

Merloch91 · May 5, 2021

tomcat59alan said:
Did you put a new CV boot on ?there was a big lump missing in your photo in post #34.

Think that's just the lighting, no hole in it/it's coming out all around rather than from one spot. The clip was swung on to tighten so I don't think it's loose, but a bearing/drive shaft would explain the squeeling I'm having

trodneyrotter · Oct 16, 2021

Merloch91 said:
All I can think is the drive shaft is too far in and causing interference, but I don't for the life of me know how.

As if it was too far out, going into raised would pop it off (?)

Visually it looks fine, bar the wheels being a touch out of line tracking wise. Maybe boots off and nosey, but I'll have to move it back up onto the leveller ground to do that

I've had the same problem with my L322. Done similar to you, by refurbing the brakes, ball joints, air springs etc then had no drive. I checked the drive shafts going into the autobox and it had partly come out. I turned the hub whilst wiggling the drive shafts and it moved about half inch further in. I then tried to make sure it was fully home by using a drift and a hammer. Unfortunately I broke the drive shaft, because it was rusty. New shaft on order, but at least it will move now and I've solved my problem thanks to your thread.

Merloch91 · Oct 16, 2021

trodneyrotter said:
I've had the same problem with my L322. Done similar to you, by refurbing the brakes, ball joints, air springs etc then had no drive. I checked the drive shafts going into the autobox and it had partly come out. I turned the hub whilst wiggling the drive shafts and it moved about half inch further in. I then tried to make sure it was fully home by using a drift and a hammer. Unfortunately I broke the drive shaft, because it was rusty. New shaft on order, but at least it will move now and I've solved my problem thanks to your thread.

Glad it helped! Sometimes these things can be a nightmare, think we overthink them

biketeacherdave · Oct 16, 2021

This is a common issue some one has fitted the wrong brand of drive shaft, 1 brand and I suspect the 1 one your car is about 30 to 40 mm to short than the original 1 that was on the car.
I'm just trying to look up the makes

L322 Bugger- no drive!

Merloch91

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