I've been out and done a bit more today. Let's disconnect everything so as to be able to work on the starter:
Let's get the air filter box and air pipes out of the way:
As the mating face of the bellhousing and block is a long way forward of the bulkhead, the only way to get at the bolts is via the engine bay. What a lot of dismantling! On the other side I've taken off the starter, the air hose and the crank position sensor.
Clutch being disconnected:
Now let's see if we can get the gearbox off the engine. My collection of bolts is growing:
The only ones that gave trouble were the top ones at the back of the engine bay, where of course there is no room for an impact wrench. As they're the sort where the head is really small in relation to the size of the bolt I was a little apprehensive in case they rounded off completely. No room to hammer an Irwin Bolt-Grip on either! Fortunately I cracked them by turning them clockwise a fraction. The gearbox and engine were carefully levered apart with screwdrivers. A bit of oil ran out. Oh no!
Fortunately the gearbox seal and the crank seal are OK and look dry. I think the juice is just what's leaked in from fuel pressure regulator leaks and leaky rocker cover gaskets. The back of the block loos fairly clean. Here's a first look at the gearbox side:
See what I mean about there not being any oil coming out of the seal? The bearing didn't feel too bad, but I put the new one on anyway. The centre pivot looked good - hardly any wear - and the same was true of the bit where the push rod goes. I took the fork off and had a look. Their little clips are in good condition and still secure the various components together so that was all reassembled. Doesn't look like there's any danger of me dropping the push rod down inside the bellhousing when I put the slave cylinder back on.
Here's the friction plate and pressure mechanism:
The friction material is a bit thin, but we're not down to the metal yet. There's a bit of wear on the fingers, where the clutch release bearing pushes up against them. The real culprit seems to have been the flywheel itself:
The two components are really loose and wobbly in relation to each other. They feel like they're about to come apart. I wouldn't be surprised if that was the source of the noise I was getting when the clutch was depressed. With the clutch up the springs hold everything together in a solid mass, but when the pedal is down the various bits and pieces can rattle around and thrum and hum and drone to their heart's content. Anyway, the new one is a lot tighter so should be a good investment.
In other news, I've got the old bush out. Of course, it wouldn't come with the hydraulic method. Each time it felt like I was making progress it was merely grease being forced out round the sides of my drift. So I bored it out instead. New one tapped in. It fits the gearbox input shaft when it is lose, but it might have compressed a bit on insertion. The new dual mass flywheel wouldn't go on. The hole in the middle was too small for the boss on the flywheel. I did a bit of fettling with emery paper, and put two lengths of threaded rod in the holes in the end of the crankshaft and used nuts to draw it on. It's certainly an interference fit! I hope it doesn't need to come off anytime soon. New bolts anointed with Loc-Tite and torqued up nice and tight and then some. New clutch disk on, and centred with the centring tool, and cover plate bolted up. By that time the light was going so I came in for a cup of coffee and slice of chocolate yule log. When it gets light again I shall offer up the bellhousing and see if it will go back together. I've got a little scissor lift style transmission jack which seems to have worked quite well. I borrowed it off a man at work. It looked pristine when I brought it home but it's been baptised with MTF94 and EP 90 so I hope he doesn't mind.