Broken Timing Belt

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very useful although not used as much as flossie, i bought this cheap off ebay just for this job, the idea is to get corrcect TDC

so set to zero just before tdc, turn crank then reading will change and then go back to zero, mark off on flywheel or pully at each zero and then in the middle is TDC, the same with MAx EP on valve as you get mid point on top of cam

this method is recommended in manuals

1723646107029.jpeg
 
very useful although not used as much as flossie, i bought this cheap off ebay just for this job, the idea is to get corrcect TDC

so set to zero just before tdc, turn crank then reading will change and then go back to zero, mark off on flywheel or pully at each zero and then in the middle is TDC, the same with MAx EP on valve as you get mid point on top of cam

this method is recommended in manuals

View attachment 323810
 
Ok got that, accuracy is good.....however when I dismantled the engine TDC was already marked in white paint in the housing. If I do it 'by eye' it lines up every time to +/- 0.5mm so I think I have it damn close.

It may come in handy for finding EP on number 1 valve??

I will order one.

Thanks guys
 
also gives to change to check TDC on piston top with DTI and make additional markings if reqd
I had to do that the other day on a truck, bloody thing wont run right, turns out flywheel timing mark is wrong!
Bloody hard work on my own, in the front under the gbox repeat many many times as I thought I was going mad.

Though it has to be said the dti on piston at tdc is not accurate enough, you need to rotate the crank until the piston is in position x (I counted ten teeth on the ring gear) with dti showing whatever figure you fancy, then rotate crank the other way until dti shows the same figure again, dead between these two points is true tdc.

Screenshot 2024-08-14 at 17.29.30.png
 
Hi,
Everything about this engine is exactly as the manual and pictures you show.
I attempted the timing for a later engine with the lock pin on the flywheel mark (it is about 1.5 inches from the window and is just past TDC cylinder 1.)
When the camshaft dot is lined up with its arrow valve 1 is fully open. If I lock the flywheel and then put the belt on it gets stuck somehow....I'm thinking that maybe the valve clearances are somehow incorrect ??

I have now removed the cylinder head completely to verify everything is OK.
The head looks fine with no evidence of serious piston contact, though there was a slight mark on piston2 where valve 3 had possibly impacted it, though it was very slight and only visible because I was looking for any signs!.
I checked the camshaft rotation and movement of the pushrod and all seems OK to me (I'm not fully up on engines but there is nothing broken so I'm assuming it is correct.)

One thing I have not been able to do was line up the arrow and yhe punch mark on the crank shaft and still use the pin!! What I'm saying is I have not tried it with 3 dots lined up with 3 arrows (the crank dot is nowhere near TDC or EP) not sure if this makes a difference- I will put the head back on and redo the valve clearances before I try again.
Thanks
Did you check the pre combustion chambers were tight in the head?
 
I had to do that the other day on a truck, bloody thing wont run right, turns out flywheel timing mark is wrong!
Bloody hard work on my own, in the front under the gbox repeat many many times as I thought I was going mad.

Though it has to be said the dti on piston at tdc is not accurate enough, you need to rotate the crank until the piston is in position x (I counted ten teeth on the ring gear) with dti showing whatever figure you fancy, then rotate crank the other way until dti shows the same figure again, dead between these two points is true tdc.

View attachment 323817
Hi,

Although I agree with you that accuracy is the key.....When I dismantled the engine it was running and the marks all lined up so as I haven't changed anything the timing mark cannot be wrong...it lines up perfectly every time. I really doubt checking with dti will show much (if any) of an error.
My main priority will be getting the head back on and the rocker assembly with new pushrods then setting the valve clearances so that everything should (fingers crossed) rotate without clashing!!
As I still cannot definitively identify the age/type of this engine (nor indeed where it came from) I do not know which timing method I will use!!
If I line up all three dots with the arrows TDC or EP become irrelevant as they are nowhere near the TDC or EP marks! My crank punch mark is around half a rotation from the TDC (which the arrow lines up with the collet).

A few days to try and research the engine number before my parts come.......

I have set the pump with the special tool so that punch mark should be good
 
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