Broken head bolt...Dammit!

Id much prefer the idea of welding a washer and nut on purple my, but because it is shy of the top by about 1-2mm I didn’t think it’d be an option, because there’s nothing to prevent it welding to the block too?

Maverick2518 said:

Id much prefer the idea of welding a washer and nut on purple my, but because it is shy of the top by about 1-2mm I didn’t think it’d be an option, because there’s nothing to prevent it welding to the block too?

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Hi
Being proud of the surface makes it a bit easier it true but a couple of mm or even a bit more below the surface should not be a problem. You don't want to touch the alloy anyway and on a bolt of a reasonable size like this its not really a problem+ it wont take a steel weld, the trick if there is one is patience! sometimes it take 2 or 3 goes to get it to take and most importantly the heat itself will release the threads then gently rock it back and forward with a short spanner, a reasonably powerful mig welder helps but I've done it with "hobby" 120 mig and stick. Its a skill that has to be learnt but if you can weld its well worth the effort to teach yourself or maybe talk to a local mobile welder and see if they have done it before, any decent welder / engineer should be able to help you, if you where local I'd do it for you. I know others will say drill it out and i'm not saying its not a option but there is nothing to loose by trying this technique and a lot to gain if it works for you.

Speak with these people in Bracknell. Classic & Modern Engine Services
They did my head & block pressure testing, skim & heli-coiled all the head bolt treads in the block.
They definitely have the capability to mount the block an safely drill out the bolt for you.

I had one do that.
The bolts stretch a little over time I think and then hit the bottom of the hole and snap.
Even though mine was below the surface I was able to get a small cold chisel in there, cut a groove and spun the stud round