I have a 4.6 1999 autobiography. When I start the car and make a u turn in my street, the brakes hardly work! But after about 30 seconds, they are ok. Is this normal? Myabs light comes on on start up and later goes our ok, so I don't think it's that. Can anyone shed some light on this please?
brakes don't work properly on start up!
- Thread starter KJT
- Start date
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Bromsgrove Defender
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When was the last time you changed yer brake fluid?
Jay-4.6HSE
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mines the same as well. Just changed the fulid, no difference. Doesn't do it all the time, but i do have to wait about 10 secs
bigald
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mines a 96 4.6 and its much the same as yours get to end of street with long pedal travel then everythings ok
the hooded claw
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Mine USED to do the same .... it really used to **** me off ...so t'other week I sat down with Rave & had a reet good read .............
It didn't tell me owt I didn't already know so off I goes to my mate (Hes a Merc Mech) tells him the problem & he says .....
"Oh Aye, Mercs do the same especially the new E Class" It'll be air in the master Cylinder plus I bet no one has bled the Front & rear Nipples"
So, we sets to & gets our hands dirty ..... On the Master cylinder there are 3 nipples ( hard to locate as they're buried under tons of Foam insulation on the bulkhead)
See Section 70 Brakes / ABS page 817 on rave
Mine were tighter that a nuns chuff... never bin opened / bled since it left the factory...
NOTE*** You MUST proceed as per Rave or it won't work & there will be No Difference.
As I said did all nipples on mine .... COMPLETELY DIFFERENT CAR!!! Brakes work within 1/2 sec of firing her up & they stop you on a sixpence.. BRILLIANT...
NOTE TO "YOUNGER MEMBERS" .. Sixpence = about the same size as a 5p piece but worth half as much!!!
It didn't tell me owt I didn't already know so off I goes to my mate (Hes a Merc Mech) tells him the problem & he says .....
"Oh Aye, Mercs do the same especially the new E Class" It'll be air in the master Cylinder plus I bet no one has bled the Front & rear Nipples"
So, we sets to & gets our hands dirty ..... On the Master cylinder there are 3 nipples ( hard to locate as they're buried under tons of Foam insulation on the bulkhead)
See Section 70 Brakes / ABS page 817 on rave
Mine were tighter that a nuns chuff... never bin opened / bled since it left the factory...
NOTE*** You MUST proceed as per Rave or it won't work & there will be No Difference.
As I said did all nipples on mine .... COMPLETELY DIFFERENT CAR!!! Brakes work within 1/2 sec of firing her up & they stop you on a sixpence.. BRILLIANT...
NOTE TO "YOUNGER MEMBERS" .. Sixpence = about the same size as a 5p piece but worth half as much!!!
klf400
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i belive this is quite normal , when you switch on your ign you can hear the brake pump working runs for about 30 sec or so ,when it stops the system is up to pressure the accumalator helps to maintain this pressure
when up to pressure you should be able to press the brake pedal 2-3 times before the pump kicks in to re pressurise the system
as goes for the abs light this will not go out untill all four wheels reach approx 5-7 mph
Ummm...... An interesting mix of ideas. I will have a listen to the 'pump' and see what I find. My gut feeling was that it was completely normal but not a good desidn idea at all (as when I do my 3 pointer in the mornings I nearly hit the curb and have to chuck the bx into reverse a bit lively!)
the hooded claw
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If yerv finished lookin at GIANT rodents .. explain "Clicky" .. & What Known fault!?????
TAKdriver
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My front & rear nipples are nearly rounded with my efforts to move them. They are sold. Any advice on shifting them >
brake modulator shims break up, there is a repair kit from a bloke in either new zealand or oz (did mine)
during nomal use it will feel crunchy or as if it is rubbing, brake loss and hard pedal another symptom.
company is "range rover solutions"
DC_
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Do yer 3 point turn at night when ye gets in
kooky_guy
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rasheed
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Nah, Claw's right. Bleed the system. And until you do that I'd imagine idling a few seconds when you start up and pumping the brakes a couple of times before setting off should spare the curb and your gearbox.
Did ya? I'd be really interested to hear a bit about how complicated it was and what state you found the plastic shims in. Presumably yours is pre '99 and 2-wheel traction control? I'd started a discussion on the Oz solution here but you're the first I've come across who's actually done it.
sandyt
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mine did the same replaced the accumulator problem solved - they lose pressure over time so need to be replaced as they cant be rcharged
