brake pressure point problem on defender with 300tdi dico conversion

Hi folks.
small problem needing some advise from the knowledge bank please.

My G reg landrover 90 has a 300tdi disco conversion and what i think to be disco axles aslo, rear disk brakes.
During re build the servo, master cylinder etc etc where all changed and the brakes have been bled probably a dozen times with different methods, but i simply cant get away from the feeling that they dont bite hard enough or quickly enough.. a fair bit of travel before anything comes in.

The servo and master cylinder were changed by a supposed landrover specialist and i took it back to them multiple times before looking elsewhere, so feel it should be better.

A suggestion has been made that maybe i have the master cylander purchased off the Reg details which would be for a 2.5td, and i should have something different now there are disk brakes all round!! but no idea what.. firstly.

Another suggestion is that there might be a way to adjust the pressure (bite) point to being higher, therefore giving more range of pressure also... but again with no idea if this is possible?? or how if it is!!.

Please may i ask for thoughts and practicle help on this.

Thanks in advance

There's a push rod that goes from the servo to the master cylinder which can be adjusted. If you loosen the nuts holding the master cylinder on, you can usually flex it away from the servo on the metal pipes, and the pushrod can be adjusted by holding one bit and rotating the other. If you make it a bit longer it makes the bite point higher. Maybe it's worth experimenting with this.

It's never going to be as sharp as today's electronically mediated brakes, but provided you can lock the wheels before the pedal touches the bulkhead it should be adequate!

As above, adjusting the bite point with the brakes coming on at the point in that travel [ about half way ] when most leg pressure is exserted will help. How many miles have you done since the new stuff fitted? Brakes need bedding in.
Warning. When adjusting the rod it is important there is a tad of free play before rod contacts master piston.

View attachment 315742

Brown said:

There's a push rod that goes from the servo to the master cylinder which can be adjusted. If you loosen the nuts holding the master cylinder on, you can usually flex it away from the servo on the metal pipes, and the pushrod can be adjusted by holding one bit and rotating the other. If you make it a bit longer it makes the bite point higher. Maybe it's worth experimenting with this.

It's never going to be as sharp as today's electronically mediated brakes, but provided you can lock the wheels before the pedal touches the bulkhead it should be adequate!

Click to expand...

Thank You. Thats a great help and will look into this asap.

tottot said:

As above, adjusting the bite point with the brakes coming on at the point in that travel [ about half way ] when most leg pressure is exserted will help. How many miles have you done since the new stuff fitted? Brakes need bedding in.
Warning. When adjusting the rod it is important there is a tad of free play before rod contacts master piston.

Click to expand...

brakes have done about 7 weeks road work, not sure on miles. The chassis broke about 2wks after initially done, then off road for 2.5yrs whilst i re chassied and basically re built, then 3 weeks back on road and written off, then (now) 2 weeks back on road yet again after all re sorted. its been a trial for sure, but never been happy with brakes since the garage who caused the initial chassis break did them prior to mot. Im happy that they've beded though.

Are you sure all pistons are free? Given all the off time.

When was the brake fluid last changed?

tottot said:

Are you sure all pistons are free? Given all the off time.

Click to expand...

yes, all been checked as free

GRATCH said:

When was the brake fluid last changed?

Click to expand...

changed when initial brake renewals were done and had quite an amount put through again since with power bleeding etc