Brake pad change

lodzi · Sep 9, 2011

Hi all,

Mechanical newbie here!

Other than the replacement pads front and rear, a car jack and a level surface to work, do I need any special tools or know how to replace the brake pads on my Freelander 2 other than spanners, screwdrivers etc

RazMan · Sep 12, 2011

Just a 12mm ring spanner and some basic skills really. You will also have to compress the caliper piston back so maybe a G clamp?

Hippo · Sep 12, 2011

Is it like the Freelander 1 where you'd be better to drain a small amount of brake fluid as opposed to pushing the fluid back up to the abs unit, when pushing in the piston?

lodzi · Sep 13, 2011

Thanks for the replies, I dont fancy draining fluid but am familiar with compressing the pison to make room for the new, thicker pad.

Can it be compressed or is a drain of fluid absolutely mandatory?

Cheers

jamesmartin · Sep 13, 2011

the reason why bleed is slackened to force back pistons is so you dont invert master cylinder seals ,but if piston pressed back slow and steady you shouldnt hurt seals ,thats how i do it as unless necessary it can be a whole new can of worms if bleed nipple rounds off

milesr3 · Aug 17, 2013

Just replaced the rear pads on my FL2. I have attached the instructions that came with the original Land Rover pads (TRW).

I did not bleed the brake fluid and the pistons pushed back very easily with a large G-clamp. No special tools needed, just a 13mm and 15mm spanner.

Nodge68 · Aug 17, 2013

milesr3 said:
Just replaced the rear pads on my FL2. I have attached the instructions that came with the original Land Rover pads (TRW).

I did not bleed the brake fluid and the pistons pushed back very easily with a large G-clamp. No special tools needed, just a 13mm and 15mm spanner.

Well done. I'm not a fan of pushing the fluid back into the system as there is a risk of damage to the ABS module. But if you take it slow it should be ok.

Irishrover · Aug 17, 2013

If the brake fluid level is just below the MAX level, chances are it will not spill over because if the fluid was topped up when the brake pads/shoes were last renewed it should return to the same level when you replace them-or slightly lower if only changing the fronts or rears.
I always use a "G" clamp and wind the pistons in slowly...been doing it for donkeys years and never had a problem.

An empty, clean washing up bottle with a tube attached, or a bicycle pump is a godsend for removing fluid from the master cyl. Another option is to ask your local junkie for a syringe or you can get them from any chemist over the counter in various sizes for pennies.

longdog · Aug 17, 2013

Has the brake fluid been changed as per service schedule, might as well do it while you've access to the bleed nipples if not.

Brake pad change

lodzi

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