Brake over haul what do I need ??

Hi everyone.
Want to check and overhaul my rear brakes on series3.

What do I need to buy if I was going to do the the brake overhaul ?

I was thinking.
Brake shoes x 4 (both rear sides)
Brake Cylinder x 2
I have a oil leak from one of the drive shafts so Was thinking a new drive shaft oil seal ( x2 , is it with doing both sides ?)

Do I need any more springs, seals etc ?

Want to get the whole lot in one go on line , so does anyone know a brake overhaul set or something similar ?
What I am looking to pay for the above....and what have I missed ?

Handbrake to follow on another weekend !

cheers everyone.

just cost me £35 for 4 shoes, 4 cylinders and springs for the fronts on my 109, u need 2 cylinders less so should be cheaper, it was a complete kit from lrseries.com

cheapest i found, very fast service, britpart however so will see what happens in 6 months but cant complain at the price

their front kit is only £20 and rear kit will be on somewhere DA6042 SERIES SWB FRONT BRAKE KIT | Land Rover Series 1948-1984: Brake: Repair Kit | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series

up to you but i always do both sides whenever i do brakes, seals , bearings etc, my 109 brakes, cylinders were shot and leaking on one side, perfect on the other but still did the lot...... whilst you have the tools out u may as well.... after all the other side may fail a week later if u dont and thats another saturday written off

cheers steve

ps,are u certain its a drive shaft and not the wheel cylinder dripping down??

cheers steve

ebbadger said:

ps,are u certain its a drive shaft and not the wheel cylinder dripping down??

cheers steve

Click to expand...

Hi not sure yet, but never replaced drive shaft seals and was working on idea that if I am working on the brakes I might as well do drive shaft seals as well.

Sniff the leak, cats **** equals ep90 which means the axle is leaking. Check your axle breather first as if its blocked the pressure will force oil through seals.
I would have a brake pipe from the slave to flexi spare as i had to hacksaw mine off. Snail adjusters go so check those. If a cylinder looks weepy just change it but it should be ok if moving and not leaking.
Id check all the brakes carefully, try dodgy wheel cylinder nuts first and order spare nuts/pipes if the need cutting off. Saves hassles.
Its not a pig of a job and i quite enjoyed it.
good luck

good point... i never really think about pipes as i always have a coil of pipe n fittings to hand... tend to replace pipes as i oddly enjoy making em up lol

cheers steve

Take the drums off and have a look at what brakes are actually fitted before ordering parts - they're probably standard but you never know what's been done in the past. Front brakes are often uprated on older S3s but I'm sure someone somewhere has fiddled with the rears.

I'd recommend NOT replacing cylinders unless they are leaking. The original manufacture parts were usually excellent and last for a very long time....new stuff not so good. I had some Britpart ones that just ****ed brake fluid all over the new pads. Also, when you disturb cylinders you probably will end up having to replace pipes, flexi's etc etc

I'd whip the drums off (shouldn't take too long) before ordering parts if you have the time. As said by others I'd check what the fluid is and where its coming from.

Fork out the extra few quid for proper mintex or premium brand shoes. Had some ****part ones and they fell to pieces....not worth the risk. Luckily they failed before I'd got out of the yard or it might have ended badly!

Springs are probably alright. Check that your adjuster snails have a nice clicking action and if not get new ones (or file/clean out some groves in the existing ones) otherwise they'll not stay adjusted.

A spare 12 point 12mm socket or nut extractor is worth having if your cylinder nuts are rounded off to hammer on to the 1/2" nuts...

If the cylinders are leaking and you need to replace them and the hub oil seals/bearings its probably worth the time to take the whole backplate off and paint it up.

It's worth buying a gallon of brake fluid and giving them a flush through.

I have used TRW brake cylinders been on two years no problem.
Worth checking cylinders are needed 1st if they are stiff remove rubbers and clean out ends of cylinder with wd40 and small paint brush then try pushing each side in a little to see if other side moves if you get them moving freely pack with brake grease.
red rubber brake grease | eBay
It is worth putting this grease into new cylinders also when fitting.
Paddocks have the TRWunits
243302G | Wheel cylinder SWB rear RH to 80/81 - TRW Lucas check the part number for your vehicle.