Brake lights and ignition on without key

Qasimahmed said:

It's the same spec as the battery that was in there before, and there were no issues then. I just replaced it for what was already there, I didnt have any reason to think it was the wrong size.

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I don't know how to say this any other way. You have a battery in your vehicle not up to the demands of the vehicle. Hence the power drain. Also as Datatek already said 15mins will not charge the battery to the level needed, even if it wasnt too weak a battery for the vehicle. 15mins will just drain it more.
Continue with the battery you have , if you wish. Ignore the advice of those who have been there and bought the t-shirt. Then enjoy all the gremlins, glitches and breakdowns that come with it.
Enjoy.

gold rover said:

I don't know how to say this any other way. You have a battery in your vehicle not up to the demands of the vehicle. Hence the power drain. Also as Datatek already said 15mins will not charge the battery to the level needed, even if it wasnt too weak a battery for the vehicle. 15mins will just drain it more.
Continue with the battery you have , if you wish. Ignore the advice of those who have been there and bought the t-shirt. Then enjoy all the gremlins, glitches and breakdowns that come with it.
Enjoy.

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So last night, I did take it out for a drive for about 45 minutes, when I got back, as soon as I switched it off, the ignition kept coming on and off. So is it safe to say the ignition problem is from the ignition switch? I understand the battery is not the right spec for the vehicle but it had exactly the same spec before and it was running well without issues for the past 3 years. Worst case scenario, I can go back to the shop where I bought it, as the technician there checked the battery in the car and recommended the new one based on that. I'll fit the ignition switch and see how it goes from there.
I do appreciate your help and I will take it into consideration.
Thank you

Qasimahmed said:

So last night, I did take it out for a drive for about 45 minutes, when I got back, as soon as I switched it off, the ignition kept coming on and off. So is it safe to say the ignition problem is from the ignition switch? I understand the battery is not the right spec for the vehicle but it had exactly the same spec before and it was running well without issues for the past 3 years. Worst case scenario, I can go back to the shop where I bought it, as the technician there checked the battery in the car and recommended the new one based on that. I'll fit the ignition switch and see how it goes from there.
I do appreciate your help and I will take it into consideration.
Thank you

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The ignition bit is above my pay grade.
However, I will try one last time with the battery. About 5yrs ago, I went to the garage,the mechanic ordered a new battery, I got it fitted and off I went. I was driving decent miles at the time. My commute was just over 500 miles each way. I would get to work, park up, then several days later drive home. The new battery was working great.
I then started flying down south and only using the vehicle for 100 miles or so when home. I started getting issues with the vehicle including flat battery , when left for a few days. Oh forgot to say, the previous battery would sit for weeks at a time, and power on at first turn of key.
Because of the constant flat battery I went back to the garage, they got another battery, same supplier , on warranty. Problems didn't go away. Over 3yrs or so I think I had 5 batteries and got to know the AA guys on first name basis.
Eventually, the garage ordered another battery, same supplier, spoke to a different guy. He asked which trim, they said Vogue. " ah" says he " theres your issue. There are two batteries we sell for Range Rover, you need the bigger one for the Vogue , due to all the power taken to run all the toys".
We got the proper battery, it fits the battery tray with around 1mm to spare. It has been in the vehicle, around a year and a half or so now. No more flat batteries after a few days and less gremlins.
So as I said, continue with the one you have and enjoy what it brings. Or give your vehicle the battery it is supposed to have.

Qasimahmed said:

It's the same spec as the battery that was in there before, and there were no issues then. I just replaced it for what was already there, I didnt have any reason to think it was the wrong size.

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But it's a Varta, Varta amps are smaller than real amps. that battery is inadequate.

Datatek said:

But it's a Varta, Varta amps are smaller than real amps. that battery is inadequate.

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He's not listening, mate. I can't say it any clearer than I have and still he wants to know better . Youth of today

Do not underestimate the power demands the L322 has from its electrical system.....the Alternator output is 150Amps - and on the V8 is water cooled....

L322 Range Rovers will eat small batteries and whilst it may be the same as was on for the past 3 years, does not mean it is the right one....it could be the Alternator was making up for an undersized battery for the last 3 years, and now it is getting tired from all that hard work, the undersized battery is just not up to demand and you are getting less and less usable power from both!

gold rover said:

He's not listening, mate. I can't say it any clearer than I have and still he wants to know better . Youth of today

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It's not that I'm not listening, Ive heard exactly what you've said, however I decided to change the ignition switch as it is a common issue and take it from there. I'm not arguing with you whether the battery is adequate or not. I'm sure it's not as so many people have said, but I can't do anything about that right now

Qasimahmed said:

It's not that I'm not listening, Ive heard exactly what you've said, however I decided to change the ignition switch as it is a common issue and take it from there. I'm not arguing with you whether the battery is adequate or not. I'm sure it's not as so many people have said, but I can't do anything about that right now

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You have argued the whole way through that it is the right battery, because it works. For an obvious situation, that needs a fix, with a fix that is so simple, your determination not to fix it, does not bode well. So I'm going to bow out of this, as I don't believe in flogging anything .let alone dead equines.
I wish you luck and happy motoring in your Range Rover underpigeon.

Saint.V8 said:

Do not underestimate the power demands the L322 has from its electrical system.....the Alternator output is 150Amps - and on the V8 is water cooled....

L322 Range Rovers will eat small batteries and whilst it may be the same as was on for the past 3 years, does not mean it is the right one....it could be the Alternator was making up for an undersized battery for the last 3 years, and now it is getting tired from all that hard work, the undersized battery is just not up to demand and you are getting less and less usable power from both!

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The size of the battery has no effect on the alternator, once started, the alternator provides all the power the car requires except perhaps at idle, the battery just does the starting and it also smooths the alternator output.

Hiya. So I got the new switch, installed it, and the ignition comes on but doesn't start. Swapped the old one back on and it starts first time. Does it need some coding or need resetting in a particular way.

Would have thought if there is some life in the battery and steering unlocks and dash lights up the starter should at the very least click even if it wont turn over, if as you say refit original switch and it starts my thoughts would be that your new switch is faulty.

just got back in, got it working. There was some black residue on pin 8 inside the box, cleaned it with some sandpaper and alcohol cleaner. It started working perfectly, it was only on one pin, so everything else was working but the EWS wasn't allowing the engine to turn on.