Fatrover
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 914
- Location
- Argyll, Scotland
I reckon you’re right. Might pull the whole thing and replace with trailer wire.
Can’t help on the first part but as to what the switch is…it’s a pressure gauge that should be hooked in to the brake warning light in the dash. If servo produces no pressure the light comes on to tell you you’ll need to jump on the pedal to try and stop. Least that’s how it works on my civilian s3.Minor hijack of the thread while @Fatrover is cooking in Greece...
Similar issue with lack of supply to the switch, BUT mine is ex-mil. Am I right in thinking there should be supply to the brake switch with the Military multi-switch in any of the "standard" lighting modes?
If that is right then I will probably just run a new supply to the switch (from the (new) fuse box.
And while I am here....why have I got a switch on the back of the servo unit?
That switch is the brake light switchMinor hijack of the thread while @Fatrover is cooking in Greece...
Similar issue with lack of supply to the switch, BUT mine is ex-mil. Am I right in thinking there should be supply to the brake switch with the Military multi-switch in any of the "standard" lighting modes?
If that is right then I will probably just run a new supply to the switch (from the (new) fuse box.
And while I am here....why have I got a switch on the back of the servo unit?
View attachment 294090
I replaced my fuse block with new as I had varying voltage on my voltmeter gauge would you believe it , I found the issue was the rivets loose on some holding the blade terminalsRight, an update. First, if you think the UKs a ****hole, go to Greece.
Had a go at the brake light issue from scratch today, The fuse is good, the the switch is good. 12 volts in from the hot side, continuity from the open side.. It all looked good on the voltmeter, but still,no brake lights. I pulled the entire fusebox down and started looking for a short. Nothing. Checked voltage with the fuse installed and noticed it would jump from 1 to 5 volts as I moved it....upon closer inspection the inside of the clips are badly tarnished as are most of the other terminals…no amount of cleaning would give me proper conductivity.
Took a feed from the live in side through to the pedal switch, lights work!
looks like a new fuse box will do it but in the meantime I’m legal again!
I think that’s what’s wrong with mine as well as a **** tone of Sahara dust and that green verde corrosion……in the bin shortlyI replaced my fuse block with new as I had varying voltage on my voltmeter gauge would you believe it , I found the issue was the rivets loose on some holding the blade terminals View attachment 294627
Probably worth mentioning that it works opposite to the non servo one,….That switch is the brake light switch
On closer look at pic didn’t notice it before on the front of servo is the unwired switch which as TS2304 says will be for the brake warning light there can be several switches wired in series so it light comes on you know you have a problem somewhere, it’s in the manual as belowMinor hijack of the thread while @Fatrover is cooking in Greece...
Similar issue with lack of supply to the switch, BUT mine is ex-mil. Am I right in thinking there should be supply to the brake switch with the Military multi-switch in any of the "standard" lighting modes?
If that is right then I will probably just run a new supply to the switch (from the (new) fuse box.
And while I am here....why have I got a switch on the back of the servo unit?
View attachment 294090
Yes.... Pedal switch is closed when pressed and vice versa for the servo switch - feed to pedal switch is permanent live when ign onby that do you mean one normally open and the other normally closed
Can’t help on the first part but as to what the switch is…it’s a pressure gauge that should be hooked in to the brake warning light in the dash. If servo produces no pressure the light comes on to tell you you’ll need to jump on the pedal to try and stop. Least that’s how it works on my civilian s3.
On closer look at pic didn’t notice it before on the front of servo is the unwired switch which as TS2304 says will be for the brake warning light there can be several switches wired in series so it light comes on you know you have a problem somewhere, it’s in the manual as belowView attachment 294663
Multimeters tell lies, you can have volts but not enough power to drive the item, bulb/relay etc, caught many people out over the years.Right, an update. First, if you think the UKs a ****hole, go to Greece.
Had a go at the brake light issue from scratch today, The fuse is good, the the switch is good. 12 volts in from the hot side, continuity from the open side.. It all looked good on the voltmeter, but still,no brake lights. I pulled the entire fusebox down and started looking for a short. Nothing. Checked voltage with the fuse installed and noticed it would jump from 1 to 5 volts as I moved it....upon closer inspection the inside of the clips are badly tarnished as are most of the other terminals…no amount of cleaning would give me proper conductivity.
Took a feed from the live in side through to the pedal switch, lights work!
looks like a new fuse box will do it but in the meantime I’m legal again!
Yes, agreed. Exactly what’s happened here!Multimeters tell lies, you can have volts but not enough power to drive the item, bulb/relay etc, caught many people out over the years.
Welcome To LandyZone, the Land Rover Forums!
Here at LandyZone we have plenty of very knowledgable members so if you have any questions about your Land Rover or just want to connect with other Landy owners, you're in the right place.
Registering is free and easy just click here, we hope to see you on the forums soon!