Brake failure

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Finally got the brake issue solved.
After cleaning the reservoir fitted it back and followed the bleeding procedure to the dot. But could not redo the front wheels second time as it was too late. Will do it next weekend. Now the brakes function as they should and no unusual indicator lights.
However, one of the rear wheels making a noise as if its stepping on cats eyes (without the bump).
May be I will have to open a new thread on this.
Anyway, thanks to all of you for advise n comments.
Best regards
 
Finally got the brake issue solved.
After cleaning the reservoir fitted it back and followed the bleeding procedure to the dot. But could not redo the front wheels second time as it was too late. Will do it next weekend. Now the brakes function as they should and no unusual indicator lights.
However, one of the rear wheels making a noise as if its stepping on cats eyes (without the bump).
May be I will have to open a new thread on this.
Anyway, thanks to all of you for advise n comments.
Best regards

Re do the complete bleed again. You possibly have air in that wheels line.
 
I'm not sure which side. Can I put both rear wheels up and start the car then put gear into D?
The noise is always there even when not braking.
 
I'm not sure which side. Can I put both rear wheels up and start the car then put gear into D?
The noise is always there even when not braking.

Not unless you want the car to drive away you can't. You must also lift a front wheel if you have rear wheel TC or if you have four wheel TC both of them as well as the rears. You will still have air in the booster unit more than likely if you are getting a sort of ticking noise..
 
No, the pump is much more quieter than before.
So there is no way to check the noise unless i go to a 4 post lift?
I,m sure it's coming from one of the rear tyres.
 
No, the pump is much more quieter than before.
So there is no way to check the noise unless i go to a 4 post lift?
I,m sure it's coming from one of the rear tyres.

That doesn't mean there is no air in the booster valves. You will need to lift all four wheels off the floor before you can put car in gear to drive the wheels.
 
Well, started the car after getting her on to 3 bottle jacks. 2 for front n 1 for rear right wheel. Nothing wrong with brakes but I guess it,s big issue. The noise coming from the rear differential. Checked the oil level which is upto the level but looks cream coloured. Not sure about the colour as I was working with a torch light. What could be the real culprit within the differential?
Anyway, with the above setup, only front left and rear right wheels rotated under engine power.(idling with gear in D)
Even with a little push the front right wheel was not connected like. Wonder why? I was expecting all 3 wheels to rotate with engine power.:(:eek:
I think i will hv to start a new thread for this diff matter.
 
Well, started the car after getting her on to 3 bottle jacks. 2 for front n 1 for rear right wheel. Nothing wrong with brakes but I guess it,s big issue. The noise coming from the rear differential. Checked the oil level which is upto the level but looks cream coloured. Not sure about the colour as I was working with a torch light. What could be the real culprit within the differential?
Anyway, with the above setup, only front left and rear right wheels rotated under engine power.(idling with gear in D)
Even with a little push the front right wheel was not connected like. Wonder why? I was expecting all 3 wheels to rotate with engine power.:(:eek:
I think i will hv to start a new thread for this diff matter.

Normal differential action, the wheel with the least resistance will be driven. If you stop the turning wheel the other one will be driven. Sounds like diff oil is contaminated by water. Also sounds like diff is knackered. When you were driving without brakes did you use the hand brake and lock the rear wheels? The transmission brake has been known to snap half shafts, if it's clicking you may have lost a tooth from the pinion or crown wheel.
 
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