Brake caliper issues

I have previously rebuilt my calipers with stainless pistons, since rebuilding them with stainless pistons and oem seals, I have found that every time I replace the brake pads I end up with a leaking caliper seal and need to rebuild the calipers again to replace the piston seals. Although I am quite able to do this it is becoming tiresome and makes a simple half hours job into a long winded process lasting a couple of weeks to determine if there is a leaking piston and then to replace it.
When replacing the calipers I always clean the exposed part of the piston thoroughly back to shiny metal before working the piston back so there is no dirt to damage the seal. Although I do not have a wind back tool I always make sure to press the piston back in small increments working around the full diameter of the piston to press it back evenly (similar to when refitting a bearing race).
Can any tell me what I am doing wrong or shed any light on why I end up with a leaking piston every time I renew brake pads?

Also on a different but related side note, can nay one recommend me some good brake pads?
I have just fitted genuine pads all round (and have a leaking front caliper piston seal as thanks). These are what I usually fit but they are very expensive. They are replacing a set of mintex pads which I bought because they were cheap to take as spares with me when I went to morocco. Last time I needed pads I then fitted these mintex pads as they were on the shelf. They have lasted about half the length of time as the genuine ones and have squealed every mile of the way. Although they were cheap they did not come with the pin set or the anti-squeal shims the genuine set does so for the front once these additional parts are bought it makes the mintex ones about half the price, and they wear twice as fast. Anyone any good suggestions for quality pads or am I best off just continuing to buy genuine?

Clean pistons, then lube with a little brake fluied before pushing piston back in.
EBC make decent brake pads, I use the greenstuff ones on my D3.
The 90 gets the cheapest carp going, as I suspect like most older land rover owners (car not driver) in the UK i use it as a toy/back up vehicle so longevity is low on my list.

Use the cheaper pads and change when half worn, the part of the piston that the seal runs on is not exposed so does not get damaged. Salt crud in my case and desert dust in yours I should think.

lynall said:

Clean pistons, then lube with a little brake fluied before pushing piston back in.

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Thanks I will try brake fluid lube trick next time to see if it makes a difference.

tottot said:

Use the cheaper pads and change when half worn, the part of the piston that the seal runs on is not exposed so does not get damaged. Salt crud in my case and desert dust in yours I should think.

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I don’t think it is just the dessert dust as have only done Morocco twice but every time I have changed brakes since swapping to stainless pistons I have ended up with a leak.
The problem with swapping them out at half worn on cheap ones is the length of time it takes me to get there. The current pads have been on about 12month I would guess and done about 30k. If I changes them at half worn I would be swapping them out every 6month which if it doesn’t solve the piston problem means I would be rebuilding the calliper every 6months as well. Genuine pads tend to last about twice that so it is not too bad.

What about the seals? Are they fully square or a slight angled lip on the inner edge?

dag019 said:

Thanks I will try brake fluid lube trick next time to see if it makes a difference.




I don’t think it is just the dessert dust as have only done Morocco twice but every time I have changed brakes since swapping to stainless pistons I have ended up with a leak.
The problem with swapping them out at half worn on cheap ones is the length of time it takes me to get there. The current pads have been on about 12month I would guess and done about 30k. If I changes them at half worn I would be swapping them out every 6month which if it doesn’t solve the piston problem means I would be rebuilding the calliper every 6months as well. Genuine pads tend to last about twice that so it is not too bad.

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My Landy only does a low mileage but lot of it is in the mucky crud and salty air. Pads are only half worn at some four/five years so I change them to prevent the piston outer from being exposed to the crud/salt and rusting. [ why Landrover calliper pistons do not have rubber bellows to protect them like other makes do I dont know. ]
Just done a change of pads and no problem with pistons going back in or leaks. Mines pistons are just the standard steel ones as well.
I recon the mileage you do makes for another set of circumstances.
You don't live in your Landy by any chance ?

Hicap phill said:

What about the seals? Are they fully square or a slight angled lip on the inner edge?

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From memory the calliper seals are square profile rather than shaped and handed.

tottot said:

My Landy only does a low mileage but lot of it is in the mucky crud and salty air. Pads are only half worn at some four/five years so I change them to prevent the piston outer from being exposed to the crud/salt and rusting. [ why Landrover calliper pistons do not have rubber bellows to protect them like other makes do I dont know. ]
Just done a change of pads and no problem with pistons going back in or leaks. Mines pistons are just the standard steel ones as well.
I recon the mileage you do makes for another set of circumstances.
You don't live in your Landy by any chance ?

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I don’t quite live in it but it my daily drive which is why things like this become annoying as a half hour job to change pads over regularly I am happy with. Similarly servicing every 6k come around fairly quickly but it is a simple short and easy job. A couple Of hours removing calliper, replacing seals and then bleeding I do not want to be doing regularly and hugely increases the inconvenience of carrying out routine maintenance.