bought a TD5 and have a starting problem

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steamlandy said:
sorry to hijack this thread, but what are the torque setting for the injectors and the injector rocker shaft.

cheers
Click to expand...

torques as Ratty said, but actual injectors are set by turning camshaft until the lobe is at its highest on each cylinder, then using the screw on top of the injector turn until it bottoms out, then reverse one full turn, and lock off with nut below screw,
repeat for the other 4 injectors
 
johnlad said:
torques as Ratty said, but actual injectors are set by turning camshaft until the lobe is at its highest on each cylinder, then using the screw on top of the injector turn until it bottoms out, then reverse one full turn, and lock off with nut below screw,
repeat for the other 4 injectors
Click to expand...

What john lad said. The lock nut should be tightened to 16nm.

Turn the engine over by hand after you've finished just to be on the safe side.
 
I had a more extreme version of this problem, the engine wouldn't start at all if left for more than 4 hours. It turned out to be the air bleed valve in the rear facing, outside union on the fuel filter housing.

If the tank is completely full the problem shouldn't occur as the return fuel line is totally submerged which prevents the diesel draining back.

The air bleed valve was £15.
 
I have some news regarding this problem I was having. We ran it back to being a relay under the seat.

I hope I am not premature with this one but I have started it twice since and it has started first time both times and no smoke cloud as before. The real test will be tomorrow morning.


The relay that I changed is AMR3773.
It is strange as Microcat is telling me that it is for "Four wheel anti lock braking system".
 
Had this on mine - tried all of the above but starting got worse and worse until it wouldn't.
After months sat in a corner of my workshop I was poking about around the ecu and as I turned it over hey presto it started. The moment I took my hand off the red plug it stopped. I was just about to order a new engine loom which was why I was poking it. Seems that the red plug is iffy on mine. I had to cable tie it to another plug socket on a tuning chip to get enough pressure for it to connect - starts a dream now
 
gryfel said:
Had this on mine - tried all of the above but starting got worse and worse until it wouldn't.
After months sat in a corner of my workshop I was poking about around the ecu and as I turned it over hey presto it started. The moment I took my hand off the red plug it stopped. I was just about to order a new engine loom which was why I was poking it. Seems that the red plug is iffy on mine. I had to cable tie it to another plug socket on a tuning chip to get enough pressure for it to connect - starts a dream now
Click to expand...

I will give this a go as it still hard starts but not as bad as it use to.

I have been using Redex fuel treatment which has lowered the fog of smoke in the morning I was getting.

They had checked all the fuel side of things and it seems fine that end. It seems like it is something electrical as I have been told that the glow plugs aren't getting the correct voltage in order to heat up.
 
Sorry to gatecrash - trying to sort a similar issue with my TD5 - could someone kinldy explain this:

checked the fuses & relays under the driver’s seat and the connection seem to be good.

My dog spends a lot of time ferreting about under the seat, just wondered if she's knocked something out? Could someone explain what's under the seat, specifically if it's related to the starting process?

Thanks :)
 
Just to give some feed back for anyone who gets the same problem.

I changed the starter motor on my TD5 2004 defender and this sorted out my main problems.

From what I have been told apparently if the starter motor isn't getting enough current it pulls current from the injectors. This is why I was getting the big puff of smoke after the car finally started.

So I changed the starter mator and now it starts up great.
 
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