Botching Bastards

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Gunner said:
According to the bible that is Haynes. It suggests that the bolts should be re-tourqed after a short period of time after the initial repair.
Is this just putting off replacing the gasket again???
Click to expand...

I wouldn't believe everything in the bible gunner. The correct tightening procedure for a 200tdi for example is stage 1 - 40nm, stage 2 - 60 degrees, stage 3 - 60 degrees all in the correct sequence this is according to up to date Autodata who get their info from LR, re torquing is almost a thing of the past, manufacturers have usually modified the tightening procedure by now to avoid the need for it. If you re-torqued the example i've given then it would have been massively over tightened. The best thing to do is speak to manufacturer to get the correct sequence and torque settings and ask them if re torquing is necessary.

Riggaz
 
its generally accepted that things like head bolts, suspension bolts and wheel nut be retorqued after a few hundred miles as things settle in and that may lead to them coming slack with not a nice outcome.
also it is generally accepted that if you are using the letter 'Q' in a wurd then it is common eteegkeck to follow it wiff a 'U'.
the practice of just throwing some letters together in the vain hope it resembells the right spilling is not an accepted practice.

of course if you was attempting to spill torque in the oh! facial langauge of LZ then the correct spilling wood be tawk
 
slob said:
its generally accepted that things like head bolts, suspension bolts and wheel nut be retorqued after a few hundred miles as things settle in and that may lead to them coming slack with not a nice outcome.
also it is generally accepted that if you are using the letter 'Q' in a wurd then it is common eteegkeck to follow it wiff a 'U'.
the practice of just throwing some letters together in the vain hope it resembells the right spilling is not an accepted practice.

of course if you was attempting to spill torque in the oh! facial langauge of LZ then the correct spilling wood be tawk
Click to expand...

The only trouble with that slob is where the tightening sequence is like the one on the 200tdi for example, after 200miles if you re-torqued it again to 40nm then another 60 degrees and then a further 60 degrees you would probably strip the head bolts. Re-torquing is old skool and not necessary if there is a multiple stage torque down espcially if it involves degrees of turn.

Riggaz
 
poisunally I've given up trying to "make the gasket work better" by splodging anything else on it... I always ended up with an uneven layer of hylomar (or whatever) with the effect that it leaked like a leaky thing from Wales.

I figure that LR spent a few quid on working out what gasket would work to stop the oil falling out the bottom, so there's probly no need to add anything else to it.

Fitted me nice new cork sump gasket a few weeks back, torqued it all up (just the once) and haven't had a problem.

Trying to remove the OLD cardboard gasket that HAD been glued on there was great fun though... :rolleyes:
 
riggaz said:
The only trouble with that slob is where the tightening sequence is like the one on the 200tdi for example, after 200miles if you re-torqued it again to 40nm then another 60 degrees and then a further 60 degrees you would probably strip the head bolts. Re-torquing is old skool and not necessary if there is a multiple stage torque down espcially if it involves degrees of turn.

Riggaz
Click to expand...
yer not wrong with head bolts bit, ah dint like modern cars cause you end up wiff boxes and boxes of eelecktronics which, thou i have some understanding of i can't fix the fookers me self, on top of which i don't think i've ever done the re torquing bit either. thats down to the 'if it int fooked dint fix it' line of thought.

and although they recommend redoing yer wheel nuts i dont think anyone i know of ever has.

but suspension, if part of a complete rebuild would probably benefit from redoing after everything has settled down


which reminds me, if yer renewing top shock bushes and they have a nut on the rod and no visible way to stop the rod from turning with a socket on the nut, how do you torque the fookers?
or do you just tighten the bastids till the rubbers are slighty compressed?
 
slob said:
yer not wrong with head bolts bit, ah dint like modern cars cause you end up wiff boxes and boxes of eelecktronics which, thou i have some understanding of i can't fix the fookers me self, on top of which i don't think i've ever done the re torquing bit either. thats down to the 'if it int fooked dint fix it' line of thought.

and although they recommend redoing yer wheel nuts i dont think anyone i know of ever has.

but suspension, if part of a complete rebuild would probably benefit from redoing after everything has settled down


which reminds me, if yer renewing top shock bushes and they have a nut on the rod and no visible way to stop the rod from turning with a socket on the nut, how do you torque the fookers?
or do you just tighten the bastids till the rubbers are slighty compressed?
Click to expand...

Thats a tricky one, i've never seen one without anything on it at all, they usually have at least a little socket in the top of the rod that you can get on, i guess if you tried to torque it and it spun you would have to grip the very top of the rod just before it goes through the body with something until the nut made enough contact to grip the shock absorber mounting.

Riggaz
 
riggaz said:
Thats a tricky one, i've never seen one without anything on it at all, they usually have at least a little socket in the top of the rod that you can get on, i guess if you tried to torque it and it spun you would have to grip the very top of the rod just before it goes through the body with something until the nut made enough contact to grip the shock absorber mounting.

Riggaz
Click to expand...
yer can't get to the rod underneath as its covered in rubber bellows. the top looks like it once had two flats on it but not any more. even if they wur still flat once you put a socket on yer can't get to them
 
slob said:
yer can't get to the rod underneath as its covered in rubber bellows. the top looks like it once had two flats on it but not any more. even if they wur still flat once you put a socket on yer can't get to them
Click to expand...

Oh dear, have you tried swearing at it? Is it jacked up or on the floor? I take it there is no hex socket in the end of it that you can use while spanner tightening it.

Riggaz
 
yu still fitting this one slob?

how about grindin the flats agin a bit deeper ant using a ring spanner to start the nut orf - when it starts compressing the bushes it shud stasy still?
 
ave gort it done up now what am wanting to know is how yer susposed to tawk it up as you can't hold the rod and have yer tawk wench on at the same time.
 
yu use a crowfoot spanner - with 3/8,1/2 drive.

like one of these.......

crft12.jpg


obtainable from here fur £8.99 plus carriage :D
 
slob said:
its generally accepted that things like head bolts, suspension bolts and wheel nut be retorqued after a few hundred miles as things settle in and that may lead to them coming slack with not a nice outcome.
also it is generally accepted that if you are using the letter 'Q' in a wurd then it is common eteegkeck to follow it wiff a 'U'.
the practice of just throwing some letters together in the vain hope it resembells the right spilling is not an accepted practice.

of course if you was attempting to spill torque in the oh! facial langauge of LZ then the correct spilling wood be tawk
Click to expand...

F*** the spelling, Im a medic not a F****** typist.
 
ask gunner asstricks he should k***
ah mean he complains about me using, oh! facial LZ langauge, then he uses computor code or some ****.. do yer think he's practicing fer this years 'hang man' compertitshun?
 
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