Boss destroys his R380.. demands instant fix the ####.

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PerOlson

New Member
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17
2002 Defender 110 TD5 van, R380

Soooooo... I'm told to overload a single axle home built trailer.. about 1.75ton of building kit, then told to drive up a long slope, wet grass, ruts with road pattern tyres. Slips and slides.. he tells me to engage Low and DL.. I tell him it's impossible to use Low ratio as it's stiffer than a nuns lip. 'Just force it - says he,, after 3 minutes of sweating, grunting, various deities cursed, it finally goes into Low and we're off up the gradient. Unloads it all, parks up.
Beer.

Next day, sent to shops in it, 5 minutes of exertion to get it back to High ratio.. only now it -

A) Loud, heavy bang when raising the clutch following any gear change, one bang at say 20mph.. 2-3 bangs and more as speed increases - this is the moment the clutch pedal comes fully up.

B) When coasting in any gear at any speed, there is a noticeable uniform judder from below the cab, but no bang/ing.
This ends the moment you apply power and resumes the moment I coast again.

C) No loss of power. To prevent the Bang/ing I have to come up very slowly on the clutch and the power. Does not always work.

I have raised each wheel individually to check for 'wind up'. Wheels did not move an inch. Lots of reversing on full lock, no difference.
UJs on front prop were changed (Hardy Spicer) a month or so ago and props greased every 2-3 weeks.
Only mod is larger tyres - 265/75.
So, is it possible that having to force the lever into Low/High has left something in the transmission not fully sitting correctly?
Experienced mixed with adequate levels of sarcasm shall be gratefully recieved!
I have no idea shall be my moto.


Cheers people in advance.... help!
 
Quick reply TMHM, cheers - don't think it's still in DL as all wheels were turning fine when raised - but that might be me remembering a previous thread wrongly?
DL light is off, no problem engaging/disengaging DL, always been hard to engage LOW so I never bothered until I was told to.

has anyone experienced this before? - haven't seen similiar on threads I've been through.
Do you know why it would be so hard to engage Low ratio.. linkage problem?
I know nothing regards the transmission other than the simple UJ change I've done, which isn't really transmission.. least not the fiddly arcane bits inside it all.
 
What 'que ridicule :) ' is a DMF??? googling now... christ.. hope it's not the DMF then.

Just been back to the beast, started it up.. DL engages/disengages fine whilst crawling with or without the clutch.. but found an extra 1/4" of travel to sit it into High ratio.

Wouldn't have found it without being prompted to check DL was off.
Still stupidly stiff, sweat breaking to engage that last 1/4"... what would cause that?
Thankyou TMHM!!! Hopefully that's it.

But interested to hear the symptons of a DMF imminent failure :/ !!!

Thank you All, top as ever.
 
i used to struggle to engage low R in my disco 2 , then and it would bang really bad and jump out of drive!!! used a bungee to keep it in hi R eventually i couldnt engage low R at all. dont know what was wrong, i changed tranny box and it was sorted!
 
2002 Defender 110 TD5 van, R380

Soooooo... I'm told to overload a single axle home built trailer.. about 1.75ton of building kit, then told to drive up a long slope, wet grass, ruts with road pattern tyres. Slips and slides.. he tells me to engage Low and DL.. I tell him it's impossible to use Low ratio as it's stiffer than a nuns lip. 'Just force it - says he,, after 3 minutes of sweating, grunting, various deities cursed, it finally goes into Low and we're off up the gradient. Unloads it all, parks up.
Beer.

Next day, sent to shops in it, 5 minutes of exertion to get it back to High ratio.. only now it -

A) Loud, heavy bang when raising the clutch following any gear change, one bang at say 20mph.. 2-3 bangs and more as speed increases - this is the moment the clutch pedal comes fully up.

B) When coasting in any gear at any speed, there is a noticeable uniform judder from below the cab, but no bang/ing.
This ends the moment you apply power and resumes the moment I coast again.

C) No loss of power. To prevent the Bang/ing I have to come up very slowly on the clutch and the power. Does not always work.

I have raised each wheel individually to check for 'wind up'. Wheels did not move an inch. Lots of reversing on full lock, no difference.
UJs on front prop were changed (Hardy Spicer) a month or so ago and props greased every 2-3 weeks.
Only mod is larger tyres - 265/75.
So, is it possible that having to force the lever into Low/High has left something in the transmission not fully sitting correctly?
Experienced mixed with adequate levels of sarcasm shall be gratefully recieved!
I have no idea shall be my moto.


Cheers people in advance.... help!

grease the hi/lo lever assembly and linkage up ,id say your only partially engaged in hi
 
grease the hi/lo lever assembly and linkage up ,id say your only partially engaged in hi


1/4" of movement left to sit fully in high. Had to use so much force just to get to that point that I assumed I was all the way.

Embarrassed :/

Greasing today.
 
Last edited:
i used to struggle to engage low R in my disco 2 , then and it would bang really bad and jump out of drive!!! used a bungee to keep it in hi R eventually i couldnt engage low R at all. dont know what was wrong, i changed tranny box and it was sorted!


Spending money... that'll cheer the old git up.. will get the defibrilators ready.
 
Wasn't sure, so I was grabbing at straws.

So DL doesn't lock each axle, it locks the g-box? or transfer-box?

TY

dl locks t/box center diff so both axles are positively driven , you could still lose traction by having a front and rear wheel spinning, though without lock you could lose drive to the other 3 with just 1 wheel spinning, on either axle ,unless you fit lockers to the axles axle diffs arent lockable
 
dl locks t/box center diff so both axles are positively driven , you could still lose traction by having a front and rear wheel spinning, though without lock you could lose drive to the other 3 with just 1 wheel spinning, on either axle ,unless you fit lockers to the axles axle diffs arent lockable

Not needed for normal use though.. competition kit is it?
 
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