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Is there a way to get the bonnet open without destroying it? The cable has snapped at the latch end so I can't use a pair of pliers to pull it as has happened to me in the past with previous FLs.
Freelander 1 Bonnet release cable snapped.
- Thread starter FlatbedPilot
- Start date
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I'll just answer my own question.
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Hmm. Don't know if it's my eyesight but I can't see the spring that's shown in the video. Maybe my problems are a bit worse than just a snapped cable?
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
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Not had to do it myself, but there have been threads showing you can open the bonnet with no/little damage after the cable snaps.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...n-a-freelander-1-when-the-cable-snaps.315737/
@pwood999 did it last week I think.
@pwood999 did it last week I think.
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Ah, mine must still have the plastic shroud on the underside of the mechanism. That'll be why I can't see the spring/lever. Plus I can't focus on anything I have to get my eyes that close to, even with my glasses. I'll have another go tomorrow after work.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
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Got an endoscope for your phone?
Might help you see stuff better. Its how I check brake pads.
Might help you see stuff better. Its how I check brake pads.
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Unfortunately not. I think I'll have to put one on my shopping list though.
Anyway, I've had another go at the bonnet today. Still not getting anywhere. The plastic shroud under the mechanism is still in place which is why I can't see it. With a bit of butchery to the grille I've made enough room for me to see better and get a hammer and chisel on to the three rivets I can see. I've severed the heads on these and the shroud is still securely fastened. Presumably there are other rivets that I can't get to. I'm at the point of just taking an angle grinder to the bonnet unless anyone has any other suggestions. I do still have a spares car sitting on the drive so not as stupid as it sounds.
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Yes, I had to use a pry bar & hammer to open up the gap a bit, and then break one of the bolts & rivets holding the cover on. Then used this tool to pull the latch open. (yes it's an old paint roller handle, I modified for removing EAS air-bag clips on my P38's)
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Cheers Pete. I took the nuclear option though. Time and frustration pushed me into it. I'm on night shifts right now and needed to get under the bonnet to find out why the car had completely lost power. I cut a hole in the bonnet so I could see the top latch and cut the bolts off that. I could open the bonnet then and just cut the remainder of the top latch mechanism out of the bottom part. It became obvious what my power problem was once the bonnet was up. My off road antics have loosened the battery clamp and the positive and negative connections had worked loose. I remedied this situation and then fabricated a quick and dirty bonnet locking bracket on the bonnet from my spares car. Pictures will explain:
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Forgot the last picture in the previous post.
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- 3,851
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- Near Heathrow.
A bit drastic. Is that a replacement bonnet, or is your welding & finishing that good ???
Took me about 10-15 mins to lever the plastic cover down, giving enough space for my hook. Then 2mins to hook & pull the latch. Then I had to unlock the "superlocked" doors from with in engine bay & replace the broken key barrel !!
Took me about 10-15 mins to lever the plastic cover down, giving enough space for my hook. Then 2mins to hook & pull the latch. Then I had to unlock the "superlocked" doors from with in engine bay & replace the broken key barrel !!
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Another bonnet. I have another unroadworthy Freelander on the drive. I've used a lot of parts from it.
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That's better. I'm not going to bother replacing the snapped cable.
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If I hadn't had another one sitting on the drive for spares I'd have found another way to do it.
