Bone's V8 Disco 2 Build Log

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So after 2 and a half painful days I finally have the lpg system back on! Just need to connect a few wires in the engine bay to finish the job.

The job was a right pain in the arse! Like fitting square tanks in a round hole!! So seats, amps etc out and a good hoover then some planning on where to drill the holes through the floor. Worked out where the brackets should go then it was test fitting of the passenger tank.

The tanks diameter is 200mm but the trailing arm bolt heads and the sill gap is less than that which make it a pain. You have to feed it in at an angle at one end and slide it fully one way then lift the other end and slide it back into position. It fits but is very tight. This was without the valve fitted into the tank! While into position I rotated the tank to the required 30 degrees for the multivalve and tightened the brackets up. I also marked the bolts (that go through the floor) so I can cut them to the correct length ready for the final fit.

Next I installed the multi valve on the tank and the new hoses and wiring for the passenger tank on the landy.

Lifted the tank into place and used some strengthening plates to sandwich the floor between the plates and brackets. The holes was painted and filled with rtv before fitting the plate and nuts. Happy days. Once in place I installed and secured the hoses to the rear. The filler and associated bits were fitted and the passenger tank plumbed in.

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Next I installed the new hose and fittings from the LPG reducer in the engine bay back to above the rear prop (where the non return t is fitted) I the installed the wiring from both tank locations to the engine bay. This is in a protective black corrugated conduit.

The passenger carpet and trim was the re installed.

Unfortunately after this was complete I realised the one of the seat bolts goes through the floor which I can no longer access! I will have to think of a good solution for this at a later date. For now it has 3 bolts. Before the drivers seat went in I welded the bolt in from underneath pointing up so its like a stud into the car. Perfect. Wish I had done the passenger side. I might have to weld a stud in from inside to fix the other seat.

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Then it was ready for a test fit of the drivers side. This was a massive pain. Much tighter because of the ace block and my conversion the hydraulic hoses etc. I also found out that the ace accelerometer was in the way and stopped the tank going up to the floor. This had to be relocated. I took a measurement of the installed angle to make sure it went back to exactly the same angle. I drilled out the 2 rivets and moved it left reusing one of the original holes. One new hole later and a couple of rivets and job done reading the same installed angle as before.

I pre run in the other hoses and wiring and then fitted the other multi valve into the tank. Its so so so tight with everything. It was much harder than the other side especially when you're trying not to scratch anything!! The multivalve installed position was right where my ace pipe run and didn't look this there was enough room for it all to fit. There was only one way to find out. This had to be done completely different to the other side. One bracket had to be left loose hanging from the floor then you had to slide the tank in and lift and rotate etc to clear everything. It went in and just misses the relocated sensor and ace pipes! Very happy as had no idea on what I could do to make room etc.

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Then it was a case of mounting the non return t level and finishing off the plumbing.

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All that's left is to connect the wiring under the bonnet. When the rain finally stops I'll pop out and finish up.
 
Just completed another small project. I got my bros neighbour to 3D print me out a switch panel to replace the ashtray then I ordered some land rover UK spec genuine carling switches, a couple of relays and a duel volt meter. The USB switch controls the 3 port charger I have under the steering wheel panel. This has my torque pro phone plugged into it. I switched it as it complains about charging if its too hot or cold. I can now shut it up with a flick of a switch. The fan switch sends a switched earth to the ecm which activates the AC fan for extra cooling if needed. This doesn't effect the automatic running of the stock system. The 3rd is a dual volt meter to keep an eye on my battery voltage as it doesn't seem to last much more that 4 days before struggling to start. I need to investigate this.

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Also gave him a good wash.

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So yesterday I fitted a new bush, doughnut and bolts to my rear propshaft. Used a quality GKN and was happy to find that was what was fitted too. As you can see the old one was getting a bit worn.

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....you crack on my mate - inspirational stuff - gonna get off my ass this year & sort my Bruce's engine leaks out. Costing me a fortune in cardboard for the garage floor - at the current prices, perhaps I'll wring the cardboard out & sell the oil to pay for the bits oooOOOooo
 
Fitted a new genuine oil filler cap and new o rings for the cap and tube a couple of weeks ago and on Thursday I fitted new Textar coated rear discs, genuine land rover pads and new sliders for both rear callipers.

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This weekend I decided to change the ball joints and axle seals. I used Delphi ball joints and NAK seals. All went well once I modified the tools 🤣 The mega heat wasn't nice though!! So happy they are finally done. The old ones were buggered.

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Also stripped and painted my disk shields and refitted with stainless bolts.

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So I've made a start on my aux power system. I've bought a 130ah AGM battery and made a mount for it using stainless and aluminium. It's supported from underneath buy a long m10 stainless bolt with a custom made foot. The battery will be secured by a tie down strap.

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Here's a pic of the finished mount with the battery installed. Also one with my fridge strapped down ready for Billing!

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Started running the dc to dc charger cable and found a wet drivers footwell. Found the culprit so stripped it back, cleaned it, treated it with rust converter/sealer, 2 coats of chassis paint and applied Sikaflex 221 sealant.

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Also found some rust in my boot floor under my aux battery. So I went to work. I sourced a good section from a solid disco.

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Cut it out.

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Prepped it for welding inside and out.

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New panel welded in.

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4 coats of rust converter/sealer inside and out.

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2 coats of chassis paint inside and out and sealed in the bung.

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A whole can of Upol Guard 10 stone chip underneath with a new stainless cover plate and an extra nut welded on for the second support for the battery tray.

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Been really busy with the aux power system in the landy. Its all up and running now, just need to add my 12v accessories, fridge etc.

My negative main battery terminal was worn so I installed a high quality replacement and crimped a new lug on the existing cable.

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Ran the dc to dc cable in conduit from the started battery to the dc to dc location in the rear.

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Solid main rear earth point using old seat belt reel fixing hole from the 7th seat.

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Made a ply panel, stained it black and mounted using the original seat lower mounting holes, the upper tree mounts were replaced with m6 rivnuts. Mounted to this panel is my Victron 30A dc to dc charger, fused distribution box, Victron battery protect, 12 way fuse box and my negative busbar. Also space for a Victron solar charger in the future in the top right.

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Main aux cables from right to left in conduit where needed.

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A pic showing the second battery mount support.

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My aux battery kill switch, mega fuse, Victron smartshunt and my 130AH AGM Battery in its mount.

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I also have a dual battery volt meter in the dash showing both batteries.

Just need to wire in some sockets, charger etc.
 
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