Bolt removal - advice required
- Thread starter Badger688
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Am I the only one that’s finding this strange ?? The second photo seems to show the bolt substantially drilled out. If it won’t apparently loosen after that drill it out a wee bit more and deeper. Find a long bolt or bit of bar that fits in the drilled out hole and rattle it with a club hammer and it should go.
I tried that
I spent 3-4 hours drilling, heating, knocking and asking nicely (and not so nice)
I ran out of HSS drill bits! (3 used)On a Sunday!!
Used 2 mapx bottles for heating the bloody thing!
Restricted to about 6-8ins swing with the hammer! To hit the bloody thing! (That's with the Disc and caliper removed)
Buggered the extractor X2 (not mine! Friends)
I have taken away from this post a lot of information from you guys that I will be trying at a later date!
Because we all know that Nuts and Bolts on any Land Rover are very easy to remove 
Kev
PS: I hope to have it done by the weekend
Only to start on the driver side driveshaft
Will send some pics, if I remember?
- Posts
- 44,821
- Location
- East Dorset
I love stick welding but hate MIG. although the latter is allegedly "better". I just don't seem to be able to set my welder up as well as others. My s-i-l sets it up brilliantly.That's for practice at a later date!
When I get my Arse in gear to start teaching myself from the university of Google and the college of YouTube and watch a friend in the garage?
Kev
But with perseverance it is all OK.
MIG is easy. Start with both the juice and wire speed fairly low. Gradually increase both in small amounts until it sounds like bacon frying. Once you get that, remember or mark where the settings are and you can raise or lower them from there depending on the thickness of the metal.
and you don’t need the gas regulator up full pelt. Keep turning it down until you start to get bubbles in the weld, then turn it back up slightly until you don’t. Simple.
frostythor
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 608
- Location
- NEW FOREST
Hi Badger 688, just a question, what vehicle is it , as that looks like a Macpherson strut bottom not a D2 ball joint , and I see your trying to get the bolt out but what part are you rying to replace,???
I’m thinking it’s a Freelander 1 and he doesn’t want to own up, as I’ve asked that question already
frostythor
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 608
- Location
- NEW FOREST
OK so this is how I would do it,
I would now try and cut through the bolt head side with a 1mm cutting disc on a small hand grinder
If this is not possible I would grind off the bolt head, remove the Macpherson strut, then drill out the remainder of the bolt
- Brake calliper
- Remove the disc
- Remove the steering rack track rod end nut and open the ball joint
- Remove the drive shaft nut
- Remove the anti roll bar drop link item 11
- Remove the lower ball joint nut and drop the lower control arm down item 15
- Pull the strut out and push the drive shaft out
- Undo the top 3 suspension nut on the top of the strut item 4
- Remove the strut to a work bench
I would now try and cut through the bolt head side with a 1mm cutting disc on a small hand grinder
If this is not possible I would grind off the bolt head, remove the Macpherson strut, then drill out the remainder of the bolt
@frostythor
Thanks for that! Will keep that in mind for the driver side as well, if I start having problems
And will look at that if the weld doesn't work
Kev
Ps: is that from Freelander RAVE??
Thanks for that! Will keep that in mind for the driver side as well, if I start having problems
And will look at that if the weld doesn't work
Kev
Ps: is that from Freelander RAVE??
frostythor
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 608
- Location
- NEW FOREST
yes if you want a copy PM me, plus I have the 3000+page repair manual
Ok so that makes the picture a bit clearer.
So its only a nut & bolt, the head has broken off the bolt and you have drilled a good ways through?
So put the nut back on and get some impact action on it, I take it, it would come out the other side?
Your going to tell us next you have been whacking the nut/thread end and its knackered now, aren't you
J
So its only a nut & bolt, the head has broken off the bolt and you have drilled a good ways through?
So put the nut back on and get some impact action on it, I take it, it would come out the other side?
Your going to tell us next you have been whacking the nut/thread end and its knackered now, aren't you
J
I think the nut/thread end is the end that is drilled out. Photo one shows the flange head end intact !!Ok so that makes the picture a bit clearer.
So its only a nut & bolt, the head has broken off the bolt and you have drilled a good ways through?
So put the nut back on and get some impact action on it, I take it, it would come out the other side?
Your going to tell us next you have been whacking the nut/thread end and its knackered now, aren't you
J
Ah ok see it now.
We have only just found out its in the wrong car section and details haven't exactly been, well, detailed
.Ok so if the flanged head is left (albiet it slightly rounded) but drilled most of the way out from the back, then it should be doable.
Wring its neck off with an undersize socket hammered on or weld a bigger nut on it and wring its neck.
Then if its neck actually does break then the hub can be got out onto the bench.
J
Has been explained in previous posts!Ah ok see it now.
We have only just found out its in the wrong car section and details haven't exactly been, well, detailed
Ok so if the flanged head is left (albiet it slightly rounded) but drilled most of the way out from the back, then it should be doable.
Wring its neck off with an undersize socket hammered on or weld a bigger nut on it and wring its neck.
Then if its neck actually does break then the hub can be got out onto the bench.
J
Whole weekend trying to get the thing out, with out the us off weld!
Kev
Similar threads
Freelander 2 (LR2)
PAS Hose Hex bolt removal
