Classic Body Removal

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
ok.. i'll give it a try. first thing's first i need to get the sills and A and B Pillars replaced so the shell is rigid before lifting.. (they are due to arrive next week.. ordered today.. two sets, one for the CSK and one for the suffix A

I've decided against separating the body on the CSK.. it's just sills, A pillars, B pillars and inner wings on the front as well as a wheel arch on the rear and the nody mounts on teh cross member. the chassis was previously waxoiled and is very very sound.. i just need to clean the old protectant off and re do it (that'll be fun !!) besides there's a lot more electrcs involved !
 
Last edited:
thanks Alan.. Much appreciated i'll give it a whirl.. the guys have some wide box section steel if i need to cut a sleeve for the forks to make it wider.. i already have a 6ft x 9ft pallet set aside to lay the body onto.

My main intention here is keep the bodyshell, chassis, engine, gearbox all orginal
 
Land Rover Monthly have been going through the steps of splitting the chassis and body on a classic over the last 2-3 months. Lots of pics to work from.
 
wammers said:
Just leave it out in the weather for a while it will fall off. :D:D:D
Click to expand...

After taking the transmission tunnel and vertical rise panel out the Sills are pretty much flapping about... if i took the roof off it would be in two halves...

So basically it's not far off falling off now:D:D:rolleyes:o_O
 
ukadamwest said:
After taking the transmission tunnel and vertical rise panel out the Sills are pretty much flapping about... if i took the roof off it would be in two halves...

So basically it's not far off falling off now:D:D:rolleyes:o_O
Click to expand...

Can you not weld stiffeners here and there to hold it together?
 
wammers said:
Can you not weld stiffeners here and there to hold it together?
Click to expand...
Probably will do anyway once the sills are replaced. The other body mounts are keeping it in alignment for the sections which should arrive next week. Just for added safety, probably tack weld a stiffner across the door space and then one joining the two like an H
 
yes i have seen that thread. not too impressed with the welding, painting or the spare wheel well fabrication. I'm using only parts that are either original or replications of the orgional. In ordering sills i took a fair amount of time locating the right parts.. many suppliers just provide sheet metal that is folded. ****.. i can get that done at a quarter of the price !! I want the holes in the right places, the trim clip attachement holes where they should be and all welds will be ground back and smoothed off before etch priming.. its good to see how other people attack their projects. Knowing what not to do is often as important as knowing what to do.

I've tried to join the CSK forum but they dont seem to want to know me
 
Well if you finish it to the standard of your 4 door vogue they should b****y well sit up and take notice!

What number is yours? I notice the plate is missing from the dash.

A
 
odyssey said:
Well if you finish it to the standard of your 4 door vogue they should b****y well sit up and take notice!

What number is yours? I notice the plate is missing from the dash.

A
Click to expand...
Number 105.

It was stored in a barn for 10 years during which time some kids got in, vandalised it a bit, including nicking the badge, kicking the spotlights off and leaving a bum dent in the roof
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P38 guy
Bent chassis
Replies
13
Views
628
P38 guy
P38 guy
tarphenry
P38 A corrosion
Replies
0
Views
307
tarphenry
tarphenry
F
1980 Range Rover 2 door v8 to 300tdi
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
Ian Whitewick
Defender 200tdi refresh
Replies
1
Views
432
steve2286w
steve2286w
S
richards chassis & pre-drilled holes for steps
Replies
1
Views
239
hughdavies
H
Back
Top