Bloody modulation

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Done that , engine cold and it made no noticeable difference . Done another video that I can't upload on here and even tried sending it to you Keith via email but it says it's too big.
I guess the next step is to get a card for the nano? And have a go at getting a graph up.?
 
Screenshot_20211116-160911~2.png
Screenshot_20211116-161043~2.png
 
Yes, AC off. That's useful being able to see all the results on one screen. On the nano you have to close down menus and open new ones with frustrating laggyness.
Interesting that your air temp is the same as mine, so that's normal then.
 
Flossie said:
Yes, AC off. That's useful being able to see all the results on one screen. On the nano you have to close down menus and open new ones with frustrating laggyness.
Interesting that your air temp is the same as mine, so that's normal then.
Click to expand...
The air temp figure relates the the earlier car with no MAF and an IAT sensor so it's just a default figure that has no meaning on your car
I have a Faultmate, Nanocom was not available when I bought it. Not as portable as the Nanocom as it really need a PC to display the info but it gives much easier to read displays, cost an arm and a leg though.
 
I'm trying to eliminate everything and anything that can get it running better without reconning the pump/injectors/doing the chains until it's certain that it's one or all of them.
Engine isn't ratterly though to my ear but I've not heard another to compare.
The blast with the redex is tomorrow.
 
Flossie said:
6deg cold start, 35deg at 95deg coolent temperature.
Click to expand...

That sounds about right. That seems to affect the set point of injection on mine. Unplugging the MAF made no difference?

I'd be tempted to set the FIP as per RAVE to eliminate any potential issues there.

Anyone know how long the glow plugs stay on after the dash light goes out? Are the glow plugs switching off too early?
 
Grrrrrr said:
That sounds about right. That seems to affect the set point of injection on mine. Unplugging the MAF made no difference?

I'd be tempted to set the FIP as per RAVE to eliminate any potential issues there.

Anyone know how long the glow plugs stay on after the dash light goes out? Are the glow plugs switching off too early?
Click to expand...
Well....I unplugged the MAF before the cold start and it ran the same as if I hadn't. Plugged it back in and there was no change in engine note although it's constantly changing with the lumpy idle. The glows de- energised a couple of secs after the dash light went out iirc.
Instant cold start and I think, instant hot start, I say I think because I've done that much fiddling and noting stuff that I've forgotten if hot start is good. If cold and hotstart ARE good then does that mean it's unlikely to be chain stretch, worn FIP and more likely to be a dribbly injector or 2?
Putting the fan back on and checking tyre pressures in a bit then running it up the road to see if the auto box works/abs light goes out. It's a bit of a trek to the MOT station tomorrow, all the local ones are either booked up or didn't want to do it.
 
Grrrrrr said:
That sounds about right. That seems to affect the set point of injection on mine. Unplugging the MAF made no difference?

I'd be tempted to set the FIP as per RAVE to eliminate any potential issues there.

Anyone know how long the glow plugs stay on after the dash light goes out? Are the glow plugs switching off too early?
Click to expand...
Power is removed from the glow plugs when the glow light goes out, however the effects of combustion means they don't go cold.
 
Flossie said:
Well....I unplugged the MAF before the cold start and it ran the same as if I hadn't. Plugged it back in and there was no change in engine note although it's constantly changing with the lumpy idle. The glows de- energised a couple of secs after the dash light went out iirc.
Instant cold start and I think, instant hot start, I say I think because I've done that much fiddling and noting stuff that I've forgotten if hot start is good. If cold and hotstart ARE good then does that mean it's unlikely to be chain stretch, worn FIP and more likely to be a dribbly injector or 2?
Putting the fan back on and checking tyre pressures in a bit then running it up the road to see if the auto box works/abs light goes out. It's a bit of a trek to the MOT station tomorrow, all the local ones are either booked up or didn't want to do it.
Click to expand...
I still think worn chain tensioners could be behind the lumpy idle causing back lash at low revs.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Flossie
P38A New hvac fault, bugger!
2
Replies
21
Views
2K
Rubberknees
Rubberknees
A
P38 2.5 Diesel - running issues
2
Replies
24
Views
3K
Datatek
Datatek
F
P38 DSE loss of power when driving
2
Replies
33
Views
1K
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
FraserW
Lean/rich rough idle issue
2
Replies
23
Views
2K
mystery
mystery
noblerover
L322 4.4 M62 running fault
Replies
8
Views
571
noblerover
noblerover
Back
Top