Blocking EGR without removing it

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Td5 boy

Td5 boy

Member
Posts
50
Location
Lancashire
so today I decided to try and remove my EGR valve but unsurprisingly it didn't go 100% according to plan.

I decided to clean the MAP senSor which was very easy to do. It looked a little gunked up......




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With that done I moved onto the EGR system. The valve looked mucky but not as bad as I thought it would be....




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But......one of the bolts holding the system onto the exhaust system was rounded. Someone had clearly had a go in the past and not done it. So, I am now left with this...




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Has anyone successfully managed to block the EGR pipe that leads from the valve so I don't need to try and remove all the gubbins? Would a coin or similar siliconed in work? I don't have welding equipment or anything above basic hobby tools so I need a simple solution?

Presumably I just need to block the pipe offf to avoid a lack of pressure into the manifold plus remove the risk for foreign objects/moisture to make their way in?

Help appreciated.
 
Sorry I wasn't very clear was I. What I was trying to ask was whether I could use a coin, siliconed in place to block that end of the pipe? I thought about crushing th pipe but it would be a bodge and I know it would bug me.

The coin I thought would do the job? The silicone was only there to keep the coin in place but I don't know whether it's heat resistant enough?
 
Td5 boy said:
Sorry I wasn't very clear was I. What I was trying to ask was whether I could use a coin, siliconed in place to block that end of the pipe? I thought about crushing th pipe but it would be a bodge and I know it would bug me.

The coin I thought would do the job?
Click to expand...
no,silicone is of no use however you use it,
 
You could service the EGR valve and refit it. It only really affects performance when it’s jammed or faulty.
 
Assuming the valve itself is vacuum operated? why not just put a small ball bearing into the vac supply pipe, no vac = no egr operation.
 
I wanted to remove the valve and replace with a bypass kit to both remove the EGR operation and also to remove the restriction in the pipe to smooth the airflow.

I could clean the valve up and refit whilst pulling the vac pipe out as suggested but given I've got a bypass pipe on its way I'd like to complete the job if I can...
 
Ok maybe that's where I will end up. To be honest having seen the restriction in the valve Iosinf that from the intake can't be a bad thing though?

If I left the vacuum pipe off (all be it sealed with say a self tapped) the valve would just stay closed yeah?
 
I take it that your egr system is like the one on the discovery td5 Euro 2 with the straight through pipe from exhaust manifold to egr valve, without the cooler.
If so, from personal experience of 3 broken pipes in as many weeks, these pipes need to be supported properly as they fracture easily from vibration.
 
Thanks for that roy.
Yes mine doesn't have the cooler on it.
Mine has two bolts that attach it to the front of the engine so I guess it's pretty well supported? I could always cable tie it to the blanking pipe? Either way I'll definitely look at that...
 
I don't know the layout of the defender egr system but on the discovery td5 there is an intermediate bracket on the pipe to support it, (on mine it was missing so the broken pipes).
This pipe gets very hot as it is connected to the exhaust manifold so don't use any plastic ties etc on it as they will melt.
 
In the case of bolts snapped or rounded in the exhaust manifold it is certainly possible to drill them out and re-tap with the manifold in situ. I did it last Christmas. I used a right angled attachment on my drill and got some cobalt drills because the material Allen screws are made out of is very tough. Lots of oil on the drill as I worked too. Then I managed to get the tap started and eased it round a few degrees at a time with a chuck type tap wrench, backing off frequently to clear the chips. I didn't want to snap it off in there. As a result I had two new 6mm tapped holes in my manifold flange which now hold a blanking plate on. The holes aren't exactly in the original places, but the bolt holes in the blanking plate are a slightly loose fit so that doesn't matter. It took a while, but probably less time that taking the manifold off.
 
I had same problem, I could not get exhaust flange nuts undone so fitted a blanking plate at the flange inlet the cooler ( between pipe flange from exhaust at cooler and cooler flange) and removed pipe after the cooler and fitted another blank there.
 
I don't have the skills or tools to start drilling out bolts and retapping and my car doesn't have a cooler. I have basic tools/kit and the pipes you see in the pics.

I need to cap off the EGR pipeworK at the valve end. Sorry to sound ungrateful but solutions involving elements from another planet or the skills of a master technician aren't going to help me with my problem....

I'm just a normal bloke who would prefer to work on his vehicle himself and try and learn a few things than pay a garage ££££ to perform the task.
 
Pull the exhaust manifold off, not that hard to do. I would lather each stud in plenty of plus gas a few times a day for a few days then running the engine up to temp, let it cool a little and remove the manifold.

Worked for me, not a single sheered stud or rounded nut.

Then you can more easily remove the rounded bolt, replace and blank.
 
Td5 boy said:
I don't have the skills or tools to start drilling out bolts and retapping and my car doesn't have a cooler. I have basic tools/kit and the pipes you see in the pics.

I need to cap off the EGR pipeworK at the valve end. Sorry to sound ungrateful but solutions involving elements from another planet or the skills of a master technician aren't going to help me with my problem....

I'm just a normal bloke who would prefer to work on his vehicle himself and try and learn a few things than pay a garage ££££ to perform the task.
Click to expand...

Get yourself a set of these (link) and remove the rounded bolt and fit the blanking pipe as it is designed to be.
If that doesn't work then drill it out and re-tap the hole. Neither of these processes are "solutions involving elements from another planet or the skills of a master technician"

I would also suggest that as you own a land rover and clearly plan on working on it yourself that I may be worth investing in some more tools. I would consider a drill and a set of taps and dies as "basic tools/kit" that is needed for working on an old land rover. You are likely to face rounded and seized bolts every time you try and work on it. If you use grease/copper grease when you reassemble you will then not face the problem in the future but until you are doing jobs for the second time (after coating everything in grease the first time) everything you need to remove will fight you and break/shear/round.
 
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