Big End bearings

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No I think it’s just a poor photo. Everything was torqued with new bolts when assembled and tight when disassembled.
 
No I think it’s just a poor photo. Everything was torqued with new bolts when assembled and tight when disassembled.
this might sound stupid but did you fit the conrod caps on the right way around?
 
The photo suggests dirt and foreign material to me. Some passageway somewhere wasn't cleaned maybe?

Plastigauge on new shells and tell us what you get?
 
I know what you mean. Everything was cleaned thoroughly and kept in a clean environment. But it doesn’t look like it at all does it?

There’s really no point in Plastigauging as the journals mic out as perfectly round and standard so STD shells are what it takes regardless of what the Plastigauge says.
 
Mains were perfect and the thrust washers were in place.
Re-reading the whole thread......
So if that's the case then you can rule out most oil related issues.
Post up a pic of the main bearing shells side by side with the big ends?

Has the engine been submerged or hydraulic locked at some point?
Are the rods 100% perfect especially alignment?
Are all rod bearings showing the same issue or just certain ones?
 
The crank is back in and torqued up now so I can’t photograph the mains; although they were in perfect condition so I didn’t see the need to take pictures. The engine ran perfectly before stripping and hasn’t been submerged or hydraulic locked.

The wear definitely seemed to get worse the further away from the oil pump suggesting starvation. I’ve rebuilt it now with the old oil pump just to see what the oil pressure is. Frankly if it’s ok I’ll leave it alone and assume that the new one was faulty in some way. Annoyingly I didn’t get an oil pressure reading before it was disassembled because I didn’t know I had a big end problem until it was stripped, so I guess I was lucky in that respect.
 
Have you checked the oil filter?
Some years ago I had a Morris Marina 1800TC (I know, I know but I am admitting to it), serviced at a main dealer. The new genuine oil filter they fitted would not pass oil. If only they had bothered to properly investigate the low/zero oil pressure reading on the gauge that I complained about. It would have saved them fitting a replacement engine because of their neglect.
 
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Might be worth fitting an oil pressure gauge in the cabin, I would prefer the mechanical type, but if you have a leak things can get messy!
 
Might be worth fitting an oil pressure gauge in the cabin, I would prefer the mechanical type, but if you have a leak things can get messy!
Many years ago I ran a temporary mechanical oil pressure gauge via a plastic flow line in one of my tdi 300s to investigate some oil issues, easily done with a nice large clock for a few test drives.

Here we go for a bit of a confession.....
Once upon a time, I rebuilt a 2¹/⁴ diesel with a new crank and bearings supplied by the crank grinder.
All assembled and fitted back in the LR, time to fire up.
Sounds sweet :) job done :cool:
Fortunately it had a mechanical oil pressure gauge in the dash.
Once warm, the pressure dropped through the floor and it didn't sound great :oops:

Long story short, I ripped the engine back out and buzzed gunned everything to death....... crank back in my hand running to finish in 90 minutes!
:vb-redhot:

A quick measure and I jumped in the car. Slamming the crank on the shop counter I asked what size the journals were that they had ground?

Sheepishly and eventually, they admitted they'd supplied -10 and -10 when they'd ground the big ends -20 and mains -10 :rolleyes::eek:
 
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